Did you find the problem?Unfortunately i never figured out how to get rid of the yellow indicator - my suspension would only pump up to about 85 psi or so and then would release the rest of the pressure with a big pshhhhh sound - system acted as if it was leaking but I'm pretture sure the operating pressure is supposed to be well over the 85psi it was releasing. My compressor ran a lot, it was new so I wasn't too worried about it - Ive been driving around like this for months - now i have the red indicator light again and I'm trying to remember what i did to clear it - i think pumping it up and disconnecting/reconnecting the 12v battery maybe?
either way this is super frustrating - maybe its the valve block that i got on amazon that doesn't have the correct settings for a Tesla? for operating pressure? still 85psi seems super low operating pressure for any vehicle....? or maybe it was always the new compressor that was working, but blowing off at the wrong pressure? or is it the valve block that releases the excess?
I'm considering getting used genuine OEM tesla parts off ebay so i can replace them one at a time (probably starting with the compressor) to see if i can isolate the bad part and know for sure.
(pulls hair out)
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P85+ Air suspension stuck full low
- Thread starter The4ork
- Start date
No CO2
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Similar problem here....
I took my car (2013) in to get the "Coolant Delete" LDU, so rear subframe was dropped out of the car. When I brought it in, air suspension was working perfect.
Within 5 minutes, on the drive home at highway speed, I got the yellow suspension light on the dash, and the rear passenger wheel was slammed low.
I got the compressor to work, and the system held air overnight, so no leaks. I also verified no leaks with a tire gauge on the Schrader valve for the system air tank.
I just replaced the ride height sensor on the rear passenger wheel, and it's better, but the car rides with the front driver's wheel at a higher level, and the passenger's rear wheel at a lower level than the ride height setting.
Shop that did the LDU work says that they didn't touch the suspension, and that it is coincidental.
No errors in Service mode.
I performed other service (clean the contacts on the DC DC converter) that required disconnecting the 12V and fireman's loop. No change.
1) Would Toolbox be helpful here? Do you suggest paying a shop to connect the car to Toolbox?
2) Does dropping the subframe involve messing with the air suspension?
3) What would happen if the mechanic did not put the car in "Jack Mode"?
4) Has anyone converted their air suspension car to regular spring coil struts?
5) Is there a way to electrically check the ride height sensors for proper operation prior to replacement?
Brian
I took my car (2013) in to get the "Coolant Delete" LDU, so rear subframe was dropped out of the car. When I brought it in, air suspension was working perfect.
Within 5 minutes, on the drive home at highway speed, I got the yellow suspension light on the dash, and the rear passenger wheel was slammed low.
I got the compressor to work, and the system held air overnight, so no leaks. I also verified no leaks with a tire gauge on the Schrader valve for the system air tank.
I just replaced the ride height sensor on the rear passenger wheel, and it's better, but the car rides with the front driver's wheel at a higher level, and the passenger's rear wheel at a lower level than the ride height setting.
Shop that did the LDU work says that they didn't touch the suspension, and that it is coincidental.
No errors in Service mode.
I performed other service (clean the contacts on the DC DC converter) that required disconnecting the 12V and fireman's loop. No change.
1) Would Toolbox be helpful here? Do you suggest paying a shop to connect the car to Toolbox?
2) Does dropping the subframe involve messing with the air suspension?
3) What would happen if the mechanic did not put the car in "Jack Mode"?
4) Has anyone converted their air suspension car to regular spring coil struts?
5) Is there a way to electrically check the ride height sensors for proper operation prior to replacement?
Brian
Last edited:
MobileClimate
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No CO2
Member
The suspension menu in service mode looked no different than outside of service mode, with no errors showing in suspension or alerts.
Changing wheel calibration solved the problem, but after a 15 minute highway ride, the problem returned. No yellow suspension light on the dash, though.
Again, the rear passenger wheel is lower than the set ride height, and the driver's front wheel is higher than set ride height.
Changing wheel calibration solved the problem, but after a 15 minute highway ride, the problem returned. No yellow suspension light on the dash, though.
Again, the rear passenger wheel is lower than the set ride height, and the driver's front wheel is higher than set ride height.
