Are you slammed to the ground, ie can’t drive at all? I remember driving around for a bit with the front slammed and rear super high and it triggered some sort of reset and the red icon went away. Also, Tesla can clear the stores codes and perform a suspension calibration for like $40, so perhaps a Ranger call? There may be too many error codes stored up.Checked the fuses all good. Got a new valve block installed. The compressor finally kicks on!!!! Once it gets to about 90 psi I get a long PSHHHHHH From the black 'out' line from the valve block.
Still can't get the shocks to come up and I'm still bottomed out. I feel like I've replaced every major component in the system!!!!
Just rechecked for leaks for the last hour with soapy water and came up short everywhere.
I'm% out of ideas!
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P85+ Air suspension stuck full low
- Thread starter The4ork
- Start date
I had that thought as well because before it was all the way slammed it would try to raise at the end of my street and then throw the red light. Now it does nothing, not even the red light. As of it doesn't try at all.
And yes, my tires are literally rubbing in the fender wells and I can't even make it out of my driveway without high centering.
Gtech
Active Member
I believe when car goes to sleep or if you change tire size it will remove most active errors. Except some hard errors like battery safety.
I.e. I had some errors triggered when changing a HV PTC heater fuse while the PTC was still broken, turned on the car and contactors wouldn't engage and a sh*tload of errors popped up but after swapping new PTC in I changed tiresize and all was good and errors disappeared instantly.
Calibration is a different story.
Never tried this myself but there was a guy here on TMC that claimed that he manually opened the solenoid valves to raise the car. Maybe that works for you so you can get the car to a certain height and try to drive
One other thing, make sure ALL your doors are closed incl. Liftgate. (Frunk not sure) Also errors about latches can disable the car to raise
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Gtech
Active Member
Hm, just checked the repair manual and apparently you need to follow a sequence and some Toolbox commands when you replace the valve block. Not sure if it's mandatory since there is no intelligence in that valve block but maybe it's something to keep in mind.
So thanks for the info about having the car all the way closed up I wasn't doing that.
Not that it magically worked when I closed the doors and frunk 'hood'.
I did however pump it up to about 125psi which is high as my little compressor would go and I finally got the suspension to budge.
Had to pump it up a couple times as the car raised higher each time. Finally got it high enough to drive and I'm not getting the red suspension light but the yellow one now.
Drove it around for a bit and it went out. Hopefully it stays out!
What does yellow mean? Decreased performance? Perhaps just low on air?
Not that it magically worked when I closed the doors and frunk 'hood'.
I did however pump it up to about 125psi which is high as my little compressor would go and I finally got the suspension to budge.
Had to pump it up a couple times as the car raised higher each time. Finally got it high enough to drive and I'm not getting the red suspension light but the yellow one now.
Drove it around for a bit and it went out. Hopefully it stays out!
What does yellow mean? Decreased performance? Perhaps just low on air?
I'm getting the yellow suspension light and I keep hearing the system blow off air every 10-15 min or so. The blow off lasts 4-5 seconds.
Why?
Why?
I’ve never seen a yellow SAS light, only red.
If it keeps purging every 10-15mins then there is a bad sensor somewhere telling the valve block to release air for self preservation. Is the compressor running after the purge to fill the tank up again?
If it keeps purging every 10-15mins then there is a bad sensor somewhere telling the valve block to release air for self preservation. Is the compressor running after the purge to fill the tank up again?
Gtech
Active Member
Not a single error relating to the suspension.
Just an HVAC actuator and something to do with AP which the car is not equipped with.
On a road trip - yellow light is just staying on now
Just an HVAC actuator and something to do with AP which the car is not equipped with.
On a road trip - yellow light is just staying on now
MobileClimate
Member
Is this a 2016 or older model s? if so there is bulletin about the system must be filled with nitroNot a single error relating to the suspension.
Just an HVAC actuator and something to do with AP which the car is not equipped with.
On a road trip - yellow light is just staying on now
EAS is the Electronic Air Suspension system available as an option to Coil Suspension on the Model S from SOP 2012 through to April 2016. The possible configuration values for Electronic Air Suspension are the following: Standard or Plus.
EAS is a Nitrogen closed system, air is only drawn into the system when air mass in the reservoir/system is low.
The Electronic Air Suspension (EAS) system is filled with nitrogen and if a leak is present, the system will compensate by drawing in normal air from outside. Ambient air expands more than nitrogen and may cause the system to go over the expected maximum system pressure.
- Test drive the vehicle and listen for air venting to atmosphere.
- If air is heard venting into the atmosphere, then this is the issue.
This is a 2013 with plus suspension.
It is currently filled 100% with outside air.
And yes, I do hear a venting to atmosphere at least once or twice on every drive.
Also have the yellow level light on.
It seams both sides on the rear dont come all the way up when commanded to full high.
Hello, Norway calling! Since August this year I've had a constant problem with my '15 P90D air suspension. What I recall is that in the same time window the car got a new software update, and the SIM card were changed due to change of mobile operator in Norway. (both within 24h of the first time warning) It all started with red warning symbol and car not levelling down when passing 55kmh. The front that was. I've now changed the air supressor valves attached to the suspension shocks, the compressor w/relay and the valve block. Within this changes, it all got different and so now the car's rear don't level down. The compressor is also having a hard time lifting the car, so I'm now starting to suspect a blocked air hose. The car has been in and out of 2 workshops, first 2 times at a 2.part workshop, the last 3 times at Tesla, and no one has figured it out. I will check the suspension hoses/pipes, but could it be the car update? There haven't been an update since. I now drive the car with disconnected compressor and valveblock, so it's driveable, but with no self levelling. The strange thing is that even with the red warning symbol, no additional info displays in the warning list.
Gtech
Active Member
Driving without valveblock? If the car does not want to drop even when disconnecting the hoses to each wheel it sounds like stuck suspension valves, if you replaced them already are you sure they are the correct ones? Hoses or valves could get blocked due to moisture that got frozen up.
If the car is in a workshop that's above zero that would melt the ice and eventually the issue would resolve.
When airsuspension is completely empty (like when swapping valveblock) it could give issues with rising but does not explain why it doesn't want to drop when hoses are loose from valveblock. If strut pressure valves are removed and car doesn't want to drop then there is something wrong with the shock but that would be something to test.
Sorry for not explaining properly. I disconnected the electrical connectors, to avoid it from start levelling
So, it seems I'm half way through finding the error. The pressure relief valve on the rear right damper didn't release any air, it was stuck with the damper on "high". That probably messed up the levelling system. I got a spare relief valve and now it levels. But the compressor blows off the reserve tank to only 5 bar so guess the system needs a reset at a SC.
Unfortunately i never figured out how to get rid of the yellow indicator - my suspension would only pump up to about 85 psi or so and then would release the rest of the pressure with a big pshhhhh sound - system acted as if it was leaking but I'm pretture sure the operating pressure is supposed to be well over the 85psi it was releasing. My compressor ran a lot, it was new so I wasn't too worried about it - Ive been driving around like this for months - now i have the red indicator light again and I'm trying to remember what i did to clear it - i think pumping it up and disconnecting/reconnecting the 12v battery maybe?
either way this is super frustrating - maybe its the valve block that i got on amazon that doesn't have the correct settings for a Tesla? for operating pressure? still 85psi seems super low operating pressure for any vehicle....? or maybe it was always the new compressor that was working, but blowing off at the wrong pressure? or is it the valve block that releases the excess?
I'm considering getting used genuine OEM tesla parts off ebay so i can replace them one at a time (probably starting with the compressor) to see if i can isolate the bad part and know for sure.
(pulls hair out)
