Passanger door opens too fast with full force.

[duracuire]

Hello,
The right front door of my Tesla Model X opens with too much force, which is dangerous because the radar seems inactive as well. The electrical connectors of the door motor are completely oxidized, and I would like to replace them. Tesla only sells the complete motor 1045352-00-H and wiring harness 1032440-80-F. I only need the connectors. Does anyone know the reference for these connectors because they must be identical to fit properly into the motor? I am attaching a photo of these connectors, thank you.

 

[xmodx]

Did anyone get a proper fix for this? 2017 mx passenger side door swings open at speed?

 

[spectrum]

That's hilarious, I have the opposite problem. In my 2023 X — the doors don't open enough, and are slowly.

 

[rpo]

That's hilarious, I have the opposite problem. In my 2023 X — the doors don't open enough, and are slowly.

That's by design on the 2023. They removed the sensors so they can't open on their own anymore.

 

[spectrum]

That's by design on the 2023. They removed the sensors so they can't open on their own anymore.

I know, but it sucks!

 

[rpo]

I know, but it sucks!

I could not agree more. Took 6 months for Tesla service to admit it was by design and not a fault with my vehicle too.

 

[Keithel]

Hello,
The right front door of my Tesla Model X opens with too much force, which is dangerous because the radar seems inactive as well. The electrical connectors of the door motor are completely oxidized, and I would like to replace them. Tesla only sells the complete motor 1045352-00-H and wiring harness 1032440-80-F. I only need the connectors. Does anyone know the reference for these connectors because they must be identical to fit properly into the motor? I am attaching a photo of these connectors, thank you.

Why not just replace both sides of the connector with a more readily available connector?
Sure, if you need to later go and replace the motor, you're going to have to modify the motor to have the alternate connector you use here, but IMHO, if it saves $800, it would seem worth it to me.

 

[duracuire]

Hello,
The right front door of my Tesla Model X opens with too much force, which is dangerous because the radar seems inactive as well. The electrical connectors of the door motor are completely oxidized, and I would like to replace them. Tesla only sells the complete motor 1045352-00-H and wiring harness 1032440-80-F. I only need the connectors. Does anyone know the reference for these connectors because they must be identical to fit properly into the motor? I am attaching a photo of these connectors, thank you.

For those with oxidized door motor connectors, I finally found the exact part AliExpress at $0.99 each (male female).

 

[Keithel]

So,

I wanted to follow up. I don't think I mentioned that our 2017 Model X was affected by this issue as well. Going on the translated fix from Norwegian forums in post #17 of this thread, my wife and I worked on this project together.

TL;DR, replacing the connector fixes the issue. For us, the connector was too far gone to just need cleaning - one of the blade pins was corroded enough that it bent and mostly broke off. Replaced with an 8-pin waterproof deutsch connector.




I'll detail what we did:

• Disassembled the door panels (I can't give you advice on this one since my wife did it - she said it wasn't too hard).
• Disconnected a connector from the controller box and removed the controller box (the "Square" mentioned in #17), and a few other things that are fairly obvious.
• Removing the connector will prevent it from actuating, but it still is getting power so:
• Remove the fuse for the door drive motor (I will include photo of this). This will remove power from the motor so it's safe to work with the wiring.
  See this YouTube video that details the fuses in the first gen Model X - this is where I got it from:
• Inside of the door you will find the connector connecting the drive motor to the wire harness. Both sides of this are pretty short, which made this fix a bit difficult. To make it easier to access, there is a ziptie tying down the wire harness on the right side of the door (towards the car). Snip this. Then you can pull the connector just outside of the door onto the top of the "pocket" that allows you access to the innards of the door (see photo of door).
• The wires on both sides of the connector -- from the wire harness, and to the drive motor, are both pretty short, so I clipped them right up against the connector.
• Here is where my wife took the drive motor out - not sure the process here, but you can get the whole drive motor out without too much fuss apparently.
• Since the wires were quite short, I extended these wires with additional wire, along with additional heatshrink over them to make doubly sure they were water tight. I did this for each wire, on both sides - wire harness side, and drive motor side. I'll detail the colors and wire gauges below. This was probably the most tricky part, as the wires on both sides were corroded (worse on the drive motor side), and it took two different fluxes to find a flux that would actually get the corroded wires to take solder.
• After that it was just a relatively easy job of crimping the wires with Deutsch connector pins, and sliding them into the connectors. I was able to buy a two pack of 8-pin waterproof deutsch connectors from Amazon for about $16. These connectors are a breeze to work with. The pins just slip right in and lock into place, and are then fully secured with a wedge lock on both sides of the plug. The waterproofing on these connectors I think is superior to that of the original one that Tesla used.
• With all that done, now you put it all back together:
  • Put the drive motor in (no details here, sorry).
  • Connect the wire harness to the drive motor using the new connector.
  • Push it all back into the door
  • Screw back on the square controller box
  • Reaffix the wire harness door seal on the end of the door if you pulled that out (I did)
  • Add some additional waterproofing to those holes.
  • Reassemble the door panel.

I think the reason that these connectors corrode is because it was pretty clear that water can get into the door panel when it rains. I think it comes through where the wire harnesses come through, and/or where the drive motor shaft comes through into the door, on the door end. I would recommend adding some additional waterproofing to this to prevent water infiltration here.

Here are the details on the connector and wires:
8-pin connector
Drive-motor side pin layout, bottom to top, left to right, with power and ground on left:
Row 1 (bottom first, top second): Power - Red, Ground - Black. Both are 16AWG
Row 2: Blue, Yellow - 20AWG
Row 3: Green, Grey - 20AWG
Row 4: White, Orange - 20AWG

Wire harness side - bottom to top, left to right, power and ground on right:
Row 1: Red, Blue - 20AWG
Row 2: Green+White, Purple+White - 20AWG
Row 3: Blue+White, Grey - 20AWG
Row 4: Grey - Ground, Green - Power, Both are 16AWG

 

[Keithel]

Here are some photos of the deutsch connector I replaced the original connector with. I don't have a photo of it all fully connected, unfortunately.

These connectors are really great, and I highly recommend them for this application.

 

[Keithel]

I have a guide to doing this fix that is awaiting moderator approval, so that last post might seem a bit out of place - it was supposed to post after the guide.