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Project 2011 Brabus Roadster
- Thread starter Moge
- Start date
I finally got my new Alpine iLX-702 installed. It was more or less plug-n-play (only the reverse signal had to be changed) and the car actually has a hands-free solution that works. I also installed a DAB antenna as Norway has stopped broadcasting on AM/FM. A superb little upgrade and the car feels much more up to date. Only little snag is getting the subwoofer to work. We can't figure out where the subwoofer gets it's signal, and as it was plug-n-play with the same connector there shouldn't have been any problem getting it up and running (the fuse is OK). Anyone encountered the same problem?
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Loved tinkering with the OVMS 2 and getting it installed. I ordered the Pickit 3.5 and upgraded the firmware to 2.5.5 before installing everything. The most difficult part was actually finding the software for the Pickit 3.5, but finally found it on PICkit™ 3 Programming App and Scripting Tool - Developer Help The tutorial on Idleloop (OVMS Firmware Update Guide) hasn't been updated in a while so the links to the software doesn't work anymore.
Fully understanding how to download the new firmware hex file took a bit of thinking, but saving it as a txt file in notepad is apparently the way to go. With the new Pickit 3.5 the software doesn't seem to detect which settings are needed, so I had to pay special attention to getting the settings right (and Disable EEPROM Data)
Before installing the OVMS I tested it several times in the car before I got everything right (with some good help here on the forum), but in the end it was firmware 2.5.5 that worked for me. I then installed the OVMS in the passenger foot-well and pulled the GSM antenna cable through the waterfall, underneath the door sill and fixed the antenna right behind the passenger seat close to the seat belt. The reception is more than good enough and no need to pull it all the way up to the rear window.
The app itself wasn't difficult getting up an running and especially having the KM/h shown where the amps normally are displayed is a great feature for me being on the tall side.
Fully understanding how to download the new firmware hex file took a bit of thinking, but saving it as a txt file in notepad is apparently the way to go. With the new Pickit 3.5 the software doesn't seem to detect which settings are needed, so I had to pay special attention to getting the settings right (and Disable EEPROM Data)
Before installing the OVMS I tested it several times in the car before I got everything right (with some good help here on the forum), but in the end it was firmware 2.5.5 that worked for me. I then installed the OVMS in the passenger foot-well and pulled the GSM antenna cable through the waterfall, underneath the door sill and fixed the antenna right behind the passenger seat close to the seat belt. The reception is more than good enough and no need to pull it all the way up to the rear window.
The app itself wasn't difficult getting up an running and especially having the KM/h shown where the amps normally are displayed is a great feature for me being on the tall side.
dhrivnak
Active Member
Good luck. I am surprised that you found so many issues with it. My 1.5 has been quite solid in comparison.So, a year after I sold my first Roadster, I came across this 2011 Roadster 2.5 with a custom Brabus interior upgrade. Apparently one of only two delivered to Norway with the bespoke interior. The car has seen very little use over the last years, and also close to zero maintenance. I was originally looking for a Sport, but the interior and spec won me over
The car has the updated stereo with back-up camera, OVMS from Fasttech, Italian 18" wheels in the front and 19" in the rear (original wheels are used with winter tires), hardtop and a long list of things that needs service:
- The car doesn't charge when the battery is cold (but the cabin heater works)
- Both rear shocks needs replacing
- The booth doesn't open
- The radiator is damaged
- The front right wheel baring needs replacing
- The left seat belt doesn't work properly
- A full brake and caliper overhaul is long overdue
- The left window seal is deteriorating
- The interior has seen zero TLC
The plan is to bring the car back to it's former glory and to do some minor upgrades!
Not being a mechanic myself, I'll have to rely on my local shop, TSC and tips from this forum!
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dhrivnak
Active Member
I thought the rear shocks were actually struts as I see the shock inside the spring. Do they just slide out from the spring support? And if so what shocks do you recommend? I think after 10 years I may be due for shocks.
dhrivnak
Active Member
I have had this issue and I had three problems. The first was the gas struts were weak and needed replacing. There is a thread on that. Then I did have to use some silicone spray and do some adjustments. Easy to adjust just some trial and error.
I actually contacted a Bilstein service center and they overhauled the original coil-overs. An easy job dismantling them like X.l.r.8 said, and the cost of refurbishing the original ones was way cheaper than ordering new ones that could take the extensive weight of the battery. There are several treads here about possible aftermarket options if you want new ones.
Sorry, you are correct in addressing them as struts. I just type faster than my brain processes, and I type real slow too. The replacements on offer that offer best performance v cost are in my view the Nitrons. There straight up better than the non adjustable shocks but I have no experience with the stock adjustable suspension. Again I use shocks as I don’t believe the spring rate changed, but the Nitron it would be the whole strut you would need to replace.
dhrivnak
Active Member
Cool and you were able to swap as I thought on Struts you needed to compress the spring which significantly added to the challenge of installing new ones.
Ah, I kinda have an over equipped workshop left over from working on race cars for a living. Everyone has a different skill level and that’s not a job I consider challenging but I have really good compressors from Spax so it helps a lot. Removing heads on a 928 Porsche insitu, that’s challenging.
I'm nitpicking here, but I don't think they are technically a strut because they do not take any lateral suspension loads. To my knowledge a strut shares duty as a suspension member (holding the wheel or hub in the correct position) and spring/damper combo.
Agreed but take a shock away and you get to bounce all the way home, do that to a strut and your getting a tow truck.
We've started the full brake and shocks overhaul job, and mounting the renovated Roadster Sport coil-overs was a quick and easy job. My SC advised me to set the shocks hard in the rear and as soft as possible in the front, but still haven't been able to supply the brackets for the oil reservoir. Luckily i found some that will work on an online boat accessories shop:
Found this 40mm bracket in stainless steel:
And yes, the uprights and wishbones doesn't look to good after 65.000km, partly on salty winter roads. We've also changed one of the wheel bearings that was completely worn out. I'm now waiting for all of the calipers to be overhauled before starting the full brake system upgrade: 4pot calipers in the front, moving the OEM 2pot calipers to the rear and only using the Brembo 1pot for handbrake.
Found this 40mm bracket in stainless steel:
And yes, the uprights and wishbones doesn't look to good after 65.000km, partly on salty winter roads. We've also changed one of the wheel bearings that was completely worn out. I'm now waiting for all of the calipers to be overhauled before starting the full brake system upgrade: 4pot calipers in the front, moving the OEM 2pot calipers to the rear and only using the Brembo 1pot for handbrake.
Second job today was installing the new side view mirrors and changing the window seals. Doing both at the same time makes perfect sense as the door trim needs to come of for the mirrors to be disassembled and it will be pretty hard changing the seals with the door trim on.
I picked up the TransForged mirrors in the US last week and didn't really investigate fully how to disassemble the trim and the OEM mirrors, but when I figured out how to get the door trim off, the rest was relatively easy. After having removed the cover on the grab handle and unscrewed the two bolts, finding the next two bolts turned out to be more difficult. The panel behind the grab handles covers the two bolts, one in the forward lower corner and the other one in the rear upper corner. Bending the panel carefully reveals the bolts that needs to be unscrewed, and the hole panels comes of.
Each mirror has 3 bolts. Two of them are accessed through the two holes covered by tape on the window frame. I opted to cut holes through the tape instead of removing the whole patch, as I believe there is very little chance of being able to reuse the tape. It's also painted in the car's colour, so I'll rather try to find a new solution to cover them nicely at a wrapping company down the street. The 3rd bolt access is hidden behind the cover behind the door handle. Unscrew the 3 bolts securing it and you'll have clear view to the bolt.
I also removed the window seal at this stage to have better access to the mirror bolts (or at least being able to recover them should I loose them while trying to install them). Removing the old seals and mounting the new ones is surprisingly easy. I paid $ 160 for a pair at my local SC.
3rd access hole behind the door handle:
Having access to all 3 bolts the original mirror came off easily. The OEM mirrors weight in a 0,65 kg and the new ones at 0,2 kg, giving a total weight saving of 0,9kg.
The TransForged mirrors aren't as good a fit as I had thought. The holes align, but the angle of the screws and the general angle of the mount isn't 100% (I'll send the feedback to TransForged and hopefully they'll do some minor changes to make it fit better to the Roadster). I intend to use black silicone to fill in the 1mm gap on the bottom of the mount, and don't think anyone will be able to see the gaps. As I didn't have a magnet Philips screwdriver, I taped the screw to the screwdriver in order not to loose the screw inside the door. Very happy with this little trick
I love how the new mirrors turned out and I'll take some more pictures when I'm getting the car out in fresh air again, but here are some taken inside the garage:
I picked up the TransForged mirrors in the US last week and didn't really investigate fully how to disassemble the trim and the OEM mirrors, but when I figured out how to get the door trim off, the rest was relatively easy. After having removed the cover on the grab handle and unscrewed the two bolts, finding the next two bolts turned out to be more difficult. The panel behind the grab handles covers the two bolts, one in the forward lower corner and the other one in the rear upper corner. Bending the panel carefully reveals the bolts that needs to be unscrewed, and the hole panels comes of.
Each mirror has 3 bolts. Two of them are accessed through the two holes covered by tape on the window frame. I opted to cut holes through the tape instead of removing the whole patch, as I believe there is very little chance of being able to reuse the tape. It's also painted in the car's colour, so I'll rather try to find a new solution to cover them nicely at a wrapping company down the street. The 3rd bolt access is hidden behind the cover behind the door handle. Unscrew the 3 bolts securing it and you'll have clear view to the bolt.
I also removed the window seal at this stage to have better access to the mirror bolts (or at least being able to recover them should I loose them while trying to install them). Removing the old seals and mounting the new ones is surprisingly easy. I paid $ 160 for a pair at my local SC.
3rd access hole behind the door handle:
Having access to all 3 bolts the original mirror came off easily. The OEM mirrors weight in a 0,65 kg and the new ones at 0,2 kg, giving a total weight saving of 0,9kg.
The TransForged mirrors aren't as good a fit as I had thought. The holes align, but the angle of the screws and the general angle of the mount isn't 100% (I'll send the feedback to TransForged and hopefully they'll do some minor changes to make it fit better to the Roadster). I intend to use black silicone to fill in the 1mm gap on the bottom of the mount, and don't think anyone will be able to see the gaps. As I didn't have a magnet Philips screwdriver, I taped the screw to the screwdriver in order not to loose the screw inside the door. Very happy with this little trick
I love how the new mirrors turned out and I'll take some more pictures when I'm getting the car out in fresh air again, but here are some taken inside the garage:
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