Real world alignment specs

[ngng]

I'm curious what people are seeing for their factory alignments and what they're seeing after an alignment. Mainly curious how much adjustment camber, caster, and toe adjustments are available from the factory. I see the specs, but don't see the range. Wondering if I'll be able to hit the targets without an issue after I install my suspension.

 

[John in LB]

I replaced my suspension with Redwood Motorsports coilovers (Grand Touring) on my 2022 Y LR with 19" factory wheels. I have a couple of specific suggestions:

1 - give the suspension time and miles to settle down before getting alignment. I am thinking 30+ days and 1000+ miles.
2 - It is important that you get the ride height to be square before doing the alignment. Think of the bottom plate of the car, if it is slightly twisted, then it will have "spring" in it... so get the ride height to be as close as possible, especially when comparing between left and right side (so the two fronts are the same and the two backs are the same). In my case, I wanted to keep the ride height the same as prior to suspension change. I measured it and recorded it at 179 mm, so I was trying to get as close to 179 mm on all 4 corners.
3 - Do the alignment with ballast, not without. This will help get your car ride as true as possible under driving conditions.

Attached are my alignment results - all measured and done about 3 months and 2000 miles after suspension replacement. Overall, I am pretty happy with the suspension upgrade (but it is not a perfect solution... as compared to a Model X...)

 

[ngng]

I replaced my suspension with Redwood Motorsports coilovers (Grand Touring) on my 2022 Y LR with 19" factory wheels. I have a couple of specific suggestions:

1 - give the suspension time and miles to settle down before getting alignment. I am thinking 30+ days and 1000+ miles.
2 - It is important that you get the ride height to be square before doing the alignment. Think of the bottom plate of the car, if it is slightly twisted, then it will have "spring" in it... so get the ride height to be as close as possible, especially when comparing between left and right side (so the two fronts are the same and the two backs are the same). In my case, I wanted to keep the ride height the same as prior to suspension change. I measured it and recorded it at 179 mm, so I was trying to get as close to 179 mm on all 4 corners.
3 - Do the alignment with ballast, not without. This will help get your car ride as true as possible under driving conditions.

Attached are my alignment results - all measured and done about 3 months and 2000 miles after suspension replacement. Overall, I am pretty happy with the suspension upgrade (but it is not a perfect solution... as compared to a Model X...)

Thanks for your reply, it looks like you set the ride height a little higher than the LR suspension from factory. Did you have enough threads for the spring perches?

I plan on aligning the car a few weeks after installing the suspension, with ballast. Tesla calls this out in their service manual as well. How difficult is it to adjust the front dampening after installation?

Re: X, I came from a first gen X and didn't think it rode well at all. Felt like a minivan lol.

 

[John in LB]

Actually, as I wanted same load carrying capacity and ride height, I did not replace the rear springs - just the shocks. So, my height of the battery plate was defined by the rear springs. My goal was to get the plate square at whatever height it was. The fronts were a complete coil and shock absorber assembly that allows for height adjustment.

Shock absorber setting adjustment is pretty easy on all 4 wheels.

 

[ngng]

Actually, as I wanted same load carrying capacity and ride height, I did not replace the rear springs - just the shocks. So, my height of the battery plate was defined by the rear springs. My goal was to get the plate square at whatever height it was. The fronts were a complete coil and shock absorber assembly that allows for height adjustment.

Shock absorber setting adjustment is pretty easy on all 4 wheels.

Oh interesting. MYP or MYLR? I'm assuming you measured the pack height 75mm medially? Do you have any photos of how the car sits now?

I finished the fronts yesterday, and while it's straight forward with a handful of bolts, it's also kind of a pain. I took the fronts apart twice because I wasn't 100% sure if I included the solid washer in the stack up. Definitely can do it much faster now with a few tricks up my sleeve. Did a test loop for a few miles and the car is a slightly higher than my initial measurements. Initial ride is better than my 23 MYP suspension. Mainly noticeable over repeated ruts and bumps. It's especially noticeable over big, deep potholes where the OEM suspension would bottom out or blow through its compression. Going to do the rears today.

 

[ngng]

Finished up the rears today. Much easier than the fronts. Did a quick loop and the car feels good, but it does look a few mm higher than before. I'll take another measurement after I drive around this weekend. Dampening feels SO good.

 

[John in LB]

MY LR.... the 75mm refers to the 4 locations to measure height (basically at the 4 corners of the battery plate.) The height at each of the 4 corners was close to 179mm.

Will try to post pictures tomorrow...

 

[John in LB]

Here are pictures, basically, the car is slightly lower in front as compared to back as per spec. Rear height is preset by Tesla via rear springs.

 

[ngng]

Funny, we have the same color car I pulled out two turns from the rear today before my arms were tired. I’m going to pull the rear adjusters tomorrow and adjust them off the car. Should be about 15 minutes a corner. Hoping to lower the car 25mm. Targeting 41mm from fender to axle nut center. Fronts could come down 3-5mm but I don’t really want to take the fronts it again.

 

[John in LB]

Funny, we have the same color car I pulled out two turns from the rear today before my arms were tired. I’m going to pull the rear adjusters tomorrow and adjust them off the car. Should be about 15 minutes a corner. Hoping to lower the car 25mm. Targeting 41mm from fender to axle nut center. Fronts could come down 3-5mm but I don’t really want to take the fronts it again.

View attachment 1000266

Try to use the battery frame as a reference for height measurements. That is the car frame. The fenders are bolted on and have errors of their own.

Also, I was able to raise/lower fronts without removing the struts and just using this small, inexpensive, tool from amazon.

ATP MacPherson Strut Spring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QTNK74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[ngng]

Try to use the battery frame as a reference for height measurements. That is the car frame. The fenders are bolted on and have errors of their own.

Also, I was able to raise/lower fronts without removing the struts and just using this small, inexpensive, tool from amazon.

ATP MacPherson Strut Spring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QTNK74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The battery clearance numbers are taken off the battery pack, which is what Tesla recommends; this is set when we adjust the free length. I'm using the preload to adjust the ride height and using the axle nut center to fender. That value is less important IMO since it's a street car and we're just looking for something that "looks acceptable".

Thanks for the tip on the spring compressor! I might have one laying around the shop. Was planning on making the adjustments on Sunday but didn't feel like taking the rear apart again lol

 

[ngng]

Spoke with Redwood today and asked for some suggestions if I wanted to hit my OEM alignment specs without additional hardware:

Standard (top of fender to axle nut)
F: 44-45
R: 45-50

Performance numbers are about -10 less:
F: 34-35
R: 35-40

5mm rake front to rear.

My initial ride height was:
F: 42
R: 41

and after taking out 4 turns up front and 7 turns in the rear I'm at:
F: 42
R: 44

I had no problem reducing the preload up front with the wheels off. Broke the lock ring loose, spun it down, and moved spring perch. No spring compressor needed. Rears I had adjusted this weekend, and I knew I didn't want to fight spring. Honestly it was easier and less time to just to disconnect the lower control arm from the strut and carrier. I will probably drive the car for a few days and reevaluate if I want to lower it anymore. My buddy has a 22 MYP and it sits quite a bit lower.

 

[John in LB]

The battery clearance numbers are taken off the battery pack, which is what Tesla recommends; this is set when we adjust the free length. I'm using the preload to adjust the ride height and using the axle nut center to fender. That value is less important IMO since it's a street car and we're just looking for something that "looks acceptable".

View attachment 1000759

View attachment 1000760
Thanks for the tip on the spring compressor! I might have one laying around the shop. Was planning on making the adjustments on Sunday but didn't feel like taking the rear apart again lol

For the fronts, we set the free length to exactly match the original strut assembly length. The adjustments I made to achieve battery height were done using the preload on the struts. These adjustments were relatively small, a few millimeters.

At the end, I was convinced to focus on the battery height rather than the fenders as there was about 1/4" discrepancy between fenders.

 

[ngng]

For the fronts, we set the free length to exactly match the original strut assembly length. The adjustments I made to achieve battery height were done using the preload on the struts. These adjustments were relatively small, a few millimeters.

At the end, I was convinced to focus on the battery height rather than the fenders as there was about 1/4" discrepancy between fenders.

I'll measure the medial jackpoint heights next time I'm at the shop. I want to do a rough alignment check and weigh the car while I'm there. Made a few more adjustments and the ride height is a smidge lower than the standard Y.

Front: 43cm
Rear: 45cm

All are from axle nut to fender

 

[ngng]

After driving around for a week I dropped the rear 2cm to match the fronts. I don't have any more room on the rear spring perch to lower the car further unless I remove the perch and let the spring sit on the collar that locks the threaded body in place. That would probably give me 2cm of ride height adjustment.

As it sits now everything looks pretty good to me! Just a hair over 4400lbs with the Redwood GT kit, roof rack, and my emergency pump and tire kit.

 

[ngng]

Final ride height

 

[ngng]

And we're done

 

[akemi27]

Didn’t want to start another thread but here’s a pic of mine after MPP coil install…setup is at max height…any input would be appreciated…alignment done at a Tesla service center…

 

[ngng]

View attachment 1026799Didn’t want to start another thread but here’s a pic of mine after MPP coil install…setup is at max height…any input would be appreciated…alignment done at a Tesla service center…

All of your values are cattywhompus. Toe is in/out on front and rear; caster is not the same. Maybe there's nothing they can do because of your aftermarket parts?

 

[akemi27]

All of your values are cattywhompus. Toe is in/out on front and rear; caster is not the same. Maybe there's nothing they can do because of your aftermarket parts?

Service center rep mentioned the rears would be tough bc you can’t adjust the camber and caster well on the Y’s. Service center was my best option because there aren’t any local shops in NW Indiana, let alone around Chicago. Hoping my tires last