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Rear adjustable camber arms

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@dfwatt That may be true, but camber alone absolutely can cause that, and @robl45 already said they got the toe aligned after lowering.

Seeing the actual alignment numbers would be good to confirm, but are you actually suggesting the static camber with those lowering springs isn't enough to cause this in 20k miles?

In my experience (on a different car but similar tires width if that matters) even -1.5° rear camber is enough to cord the inside before the tread is otherwise done on a purely street-driven car (no track miles). It certainly won't happen as quickly as having toe really off, but @robl45 said that wear took 20k miles, that checks out to me. 🤷‍♂️
Severe negative camber can wear the inside of the tire, but it's a mistake to think even for a second that we are talking about some kind of independent factors in isolation. I've had 1.5 negative camber on both cars for years with perfectly smooth and even wear on both front and rear tires. So my use case argues against negative camber of a moderate sort being a big chewer up of tires. On the other hand when we've had toe problems the tires go quickly and it's always chewing up the inside tread. Which is part of what makes people blame the camber. But again this is misinformed. We're not talking about 5° here nobody's running that, even people tracking the car are at 2.5 to 3 degrees negative. And they're actually seeing pretty even wear because of how heavily loaded the outside edges of the tires are on the track
 
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Well I got a deal on whiteline camber arms for 200 and I have an alignment scheduled with a shop here who supposedly knows how to actually align the car, they knew about the adjustment in the rear from the service manual while two other shops said we can't adjust anything for camber. I don't have the printout, but Toe was definitely green all around when it was done in March of 2023. Camber was out though
 
Just want to throw this out there. Very possible your chassis is not perfectly straight. All suspension components can be 100% identical and be adjusted the same way on different cars and yield different alignment numbers. I'm betting camber is -1.5 to -2 degrees. Very common for cars lowered an inch from factory. Those camber numbers may be slightly out of stock spec, but nothing wrong with running that much camber as long as it's roughly even side to side and front to back. As everyone else said, share your alignment numbers when you get some and we can help!
 
Severe negative camber can wear the inside of the tire, but it's a mistake to think even for a second that we are talking about some kind of independent factors in isolation. I've had 1.5 negative camber on both cars for years with perfectly smooth and even wear on both front and rear tires. So my use case argues against negative camber of a moderate sort being a big chewer up of tires. On the other hand when we've had toe problems the tires go quickly and it's always chewing up the inside tread. Which is part of what makes people blame the camber. But again this is misinformed. We're not talking about 5° here nobody's running that, even people tracking the car are at 2.5 to 3 degrees negative. And they're actually seeing pretty even wear because of how heavily loaded the outside edges of the tires are on the track

I second this. Our MYP has really bad stock camber at a notch below -2.0. Just did a tire rotation thinking that the insides would show some wear; however, as you can see the tires are wearing very evenly despite the aggressive (for stock) negative camber.

Hankook iON EVO All Seasons (Excellent tires btw, very quiet, just as good as my Michelin's, I'm for sure getting the iONs next on my M3P, currently sporting Michelin PS4 AS.)
Hankook iON EVO AS.jpeg

~11,500 miles

Well I got a deal on whiteline camber arms for 200 and I have an alignment scheduled with a shop here who supposedly knows how to actually align the car, they knew about the adjustment in the rear from the service manual while two other shops said we can't adjust anything for camber. I don't have the printout, but Toe was definitely green all around when it was done in March of 2023. Camber was out though

Most places offer a free alignment check where you can get a print out to know your values. I usually always get a free check right when I get my car after delivery as Tesla's are notorious to have the worst stock alignment.


Just want to throw this out there. Very possible your chassis is not perfectly straight. All suspension components can be 100% identical and be adjusted the same way on different cars and yield different alignment numbers. I'm betting camber is -1.5 to -2 degrees. Very common for cars lowered an inch from factory. Those camber numbers may be slightly out of stock spec, but nothing wrong with running that much camber as long as it's roughly even side to side and front to back. As everyone else said, share your alignment numbers when you get some and we can help!

I think he's dealing with a toe issue, with a negative camber that isn't helping. @robl45 don't forget about us, we're very curious. 👍
 
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A bit off topic, but since there is a lot of expertice in this thread can I ask if it is OK to have a bit of play in the stock camber arms? Car is not lowered, suspension is completly stock. Tesla says it is OK to have a little play in the wheel when checking. An independent third party garage says it is not.
 
A bit off topic, but since there is a lot of expertice in this thread can I ask if it is OK to have a bit of play in the stock camber arms? Car is not lowered, suspension is completly stock. Tesla says it is OK to have a little play in the wheel when checking. An independent third party garage says it is not.
It is more likely that the bearing in the knuckle to which the rear camber arm is attached has play. It won't cause your wheel to fall off but you may notice noise or instability.
 
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