Recently purchased a 2021 S Plaid. After reading about inner rear tire wear I decided to check my alignment. It was quite a lot off so I installed the shims for reducing negative rear camber. I installed 1/8 inch thick shims. The 20mm toe hex was difficult to turn. On one side of the car even with the shims installed I still have -2.5* of camber. I decided to install two more 1/8" shims in an attempt to get it closer to the -1.5* camber on the drivers side after it's shims. Now the 20mm adjusting hex won't turn at all even with a cheater wrench on the 223mm end of my open end wrench. Apparently the multiple control rods only allow for minimum adjustment. Even with adjustable upper arms the same problem should still occur. All either is doing is lengthening the upper control arm. It's not the turnbuckle threads. I removed the tie rod and the threads turn by hand. How can I get my rear passenger side adjusted?
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Help with toe adjustment model S Plaid
- Thread starter Tes3P
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Review this thread:
teslamotorsclub.com
And look for the printout of my before and after alignment numbers. My post is near the end of the thread.
With respect to rear toe, I have seen a couple of YouTubers turn the locknuts the wrong way and then, finally, figure it out. It doesn’t sound like this is your problem.
Joe
Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?
This guy is running the T0 spec winters with stock suspension and no abnormal wear. He's made a few posts through the thread Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?. And I cannot find a single instance of the T0 spec Goodyear All-seasons failing either. I have plenty of experience. I know...
teslamotorsclub.com
And look for the printout of my before and after alignment numbers. My post is near the end of the thread.
With respect to rear toe, I have seen a couple of YouTubers turn the locknuts the wrong way and then, finally, figure it out. It doesn’t sound like this is your problem.
Joe
Here's my print out after alignment. Don't know if this is to specs or not but it's what the shop says they adjusted it to. Thanks Joe!Review this thread:
Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?
This guy is running the T0 spec winters with stock suspension and no abnormal wear. He's made a few posts through the thread Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?. And I cannot find a single instance of the T0 spec Goodyear All-seasons failing either. I have plenty of experience. I know...
And look for the printout of my before and after alignment numbers. My post is near the end of the thread.
With respect to rear toe, I have seen a couple of YouTubers turn the locknuts the wrong way and then, finally, figure it out. It doesn’t sound like this is your problem.
Joe
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I think all the red boxes in the “after” measurements are all out of spec. I would ask the shop that did the work if they can dial in the caster.
Joe
Joe
Caster isn't adjustable on most cars
Based on Tesla's specs, he's within spec for the absolute measurement, but the split is too high (though theoretically rounding error on both ends could mean it's just within spec)
Edit: Never mind, guess caster is adjustable on these cars
Either way, the alignment shop has the wrong actual spec. 4.8 and 5.1 are okay per Tesla's spec, but should try to adjust the difference to be under 0.2 (ideally both sides equal)
Based on Tesla's specs, he's within spec for the absolute measurement, but the split is too high (though theoretically rounding error on both ends could mean it's just within spec)
Edit: Never mind, guess caster is adjustable on these cars
Either way, the alignment shop has the wrong actual spec. 4.8 and 5.1 are okay per Tesla's spec, but should try to adjust the difference to be under 0.2 (ideally both sides equal)
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The shop I took the car to was not familiar with Tesla's. I need to find a shop other than Tesla to get another alignment. I've added another 1/8" shim to the passenger side because my bubble leveler did not show any where as close to zero as the drivers rear. Now the bubble is approximately the same. I use my Summit toe gauge to set the toe. Would still like to get it on a machine that is reliable and the operator is familiar with the Plaid.
Without taking it to the original shop that didn't know how to adjust caster, do you know which way to turn the nut to get that 5.1 down closer to the 4.8? I'm guessing a 1/4 turn would probably do it assuming I turned it the right way.
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