Considering getting adjustable camber arms for the rear after having this happen to the tires too many times. Its only the right too. The left is still okay, I understand from reading that the front is too dang expensive and usually not quite as bad, and the rears look reasonably easy to install. My main question is do I need to do the toe arms and the camber arms or am I fine to just do the camber arms and are there any reasonably priced ones? By reasonably priced, I mean 200 or less ideally. Not that Unplugged and Mountain pass don't make good stuff or anything.
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Rear adjustable camber arms
- Thread starter robl45
- Start date
I think I just replied to your email but if your goal is to adjust or correct the rear camber, you only need the camber arms. Toe arms are optional!
Yes I did just email you and I love your stuff, just don't know if I can stomach spending that much on a car that is going to my kids soon.
Last time I did the math, a set of nice camber arms for a lowered Model 3 should pay for themselves by saving on tire costs in relatively short order, if you drive a lot. Exact numbers will vary of course based on your preferred tires and exactly what your alignment specs end up at without the adjustable arms.
If you want cheap, go back to stock (height). Honestly that might be a good idea before giving it to your kids anyways, assuming they are or will be new teenage drivers!
Just my 2c. I also have a Model S which has enough rear camber to do that 100% stock. I finally put adjustable rear arms on it last year as part of a larger suspension refresh (it's over 10 years old, tons of worn out bushings and bearings), and I wish I'd done that years ago to save on tire costs! Though for the S there simply weren't any off-the-shelf aftermarket adjustable arms for many many years. I think MPP and many others ignored the old S because it could never make a decent track car, no matter how much you upgrade the suspension.
If you want cheap, go back to stock (height). Honestly that might be a good idea before giving it to your kids anyways, assuming they are or will be new teenage drivers!
Just my 2c. I also have a Model S which has enough rear camber to do that 100% stock. I finally put adjustable rear arms on it last year as part of a larger suspension refresh (it's over 10 years old, tons of worn out bushings and bearings), and I wish I'd done that years ago to save on tire costs! Though for the S there simply weren't any off-the-shelf aftermarket adjustable arms for many many years. I think MPP and many others ignored the old S because it could never make a decent track car, no matter how much you upgrade the suspension.
Not cheap because I never had the stock springs, I went from reallly really low to slightly lower now and it doesn't handle as well as when I got it at 7 months, but I make it over speed bumps so that is a plus. I'm looking at Whiteline as a possible cheaper alternative, they appear to be in the 250 range depending on the place.
It may very well be that the car was not properly aligned after it was lowered.
I don't have the values, checked because I thought I might. its Tsportline springs, I think about an inch lower.
If it wasn't aligned after those were installed your tires will die a quick and certain death.
It was. But they couldn’t get the camber great. They said it shouldn’t be that bad. I got 20000 miles out of the tires. But they had 5 to 10 left or more of the inside didn’t wear out
Just circling back on this even though the car is lowered an inch or so. I still just need camber arms? I don’t remember the toe ever being an issue. Just changed the tires now. The back are thrashed on the inside. The fronts much better. They were rotated 5800 miles ago and were rotated twice before so clearly the back is doing the major damage.
That's correct. You won't run out of factory toe adjustment unless you lower the car even further or run extreme camber settings (positive or negative).
You actually don't need to do this if you're installing the MPP arms because you will have spherical bearings on both ends, which means it doesn't need to be torqued at ride height.
@dfwatt That may be true, but camber alone absolutely can cause that, and @robl45 already said they got the toe aligned after lowering.
Seeing the actual alignment numbers would be good to confirm, but are you actually suggesting the static camber with those lowering springs isn't enough to cause this in 20k miles?
In my experience (on a different car but similar tires width if that matters) even -1.5° rear camber is enough to cord the inside before the tread is otherwise done on a purely street-driven car (no track miles). It certainly won't happen as quickly as having toe really off, but @robl45 said that wear took 20k miles, that checks out to me.
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