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Replacing cabin air filter and cleaning evaporator fins in 2021-2022 MS
- Thread starter Bull
- Start date
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
I sure would like to peer in to the new intake opening and see if they’re making the air take any additional routes for the water to drop out before it hits the filter.
But… they’re trying to address water after its already entered the intake and the negative air pressure of the blower is already acting on the airflow . An upgraded grill cover would be so much easier to retrofit.
I wonder if there’s some other issue for them to ignore what I’m seeing as soo obvious.
Frogzskin rectangular meshes may be an option!
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Same looking intake. Just a deeper well for water to drain. I would argue I am about the first one to have this.
Can we have comparison photos of the opening angle to see if a deeper pocket can prevent water from getting in too easily during rain or car wash?
I want to know if paying for the revision out of pocket on the new parts that fix the smell and prevent it from occurring after rain or a car wash. pocket is worth it. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing!
It does look like the tunnel is much deeper for the water to drain but it might not change the fact that the water can still get into the air intake in the first place
Also, has everyone noticed that when you activate the car wash mode, the system allows outside air to come in instead of recirculating the air? This could potentially increase moisture and cause water to be sucked into the intake. It might be a bug, but I've observed this behavior on my current version.
It does look like the tunnel is much deeper for the water to drain but it might not change the fact that the water can still get into the air intake in the first place
Also, has everyone noticed that when you activate the car wash mode, the system allows outside air to come in instead of recirculating the air? This could potentially increase moisture and cause water to be sucked into the intake. It might be a bug, but I've observed this behavior on my current version.
I believe the main problem is putting an inside filter outside the car. The material on the front of the filter doesn’t seem to dry or shed moisture very well.Thank you for sharing!
It does look like the tunnel is much deeper for the water to drain but it might not change the fact that the water can still get into the air intake in the first place
Also, has everyone noticed that when you activate the car wash mode, the system allows outside air to come in instead of recirculating the air? This could potentially increase moisture and cause water to be sucked into the intake. It might be a bug, but I've observed this behavior on my current version.
As far as keeping it dry, I like the MF approach also And will be adding some foam to the gap.
And here I thought I was coming to provide some new updated info.... but Duke beat me to it by a few days. I just had this same service done today and the answer is a resounding yes, this solved the smell problem so far. Our tech (Duke and I have the same exact mobile tech and SC) also explained how the foam cleaning that the SC claims to do.... well.... he cant see how ANY of that foam would reach the condenser at all as its completely sealed. Even if one was to get foam in there some how, it would then evacuate through the vents in the car. So i literally have no idea what I paid for. An over priced air cleaner that lasted a few days.
Removal and replacement of the hepa filter is very easy and the tech showed me how to do it. However, the service actually calls for replacing the filter AND the filter assembly. Which adds about an hour or 2 to the job. My housing had a broken clip on it, so the mobile tech had to replace it. The "new" housing and the original housing are the same exact p/n though, so if my clip had not been broken, he would have not had to replace it.
The hepa filter cover designs (as Duke already posted) are definitely different. Which, to me, screams warranty item since its clearly a design flaw. But, as was stated earlier, the cost after tax and what not is just under 300 bucks.
In my photos, the old one is the dusty one. In the picture showing what I'll call the "drainage channel" the old one peaks at the center and then flows down either way to those corners. One corner is open to just drain out and the other corner has a white "pipe" looking piece.
With the new filter cover, the "drainage channel" actually flows down all in one direction and just empties under the car. Fingers crossed that this is the final fix.
Removal and replacement of the hepa filter is very easy and the tech showed me how to do it. However, the service actually calls for replacing the filter AND the filter assembly. Which adds about an hour or 2 to the job. My housing had a broken clip on it, so the mobile tech had to replace it. The "new" housing and the original housing are the same exact p/n though, so if my clip had not been broken, he would have not had to replace it.
The hepa filter cover designs (as Duke already posted) are definitely different. Which, to me, screams warranty item since its clearly a design flaw. But, as was stated earlier, the cost after tax and what not is just under 300 bucks.
In my photos, the old one is the dusty one. In the picture showing what I'll call the "drainage channel" the old one peaks at the center and then flows down either way to those corners. One corner is open to just drain out and the other corner has a white "pipe" looking piece.
With the new filter cover, the "drainage channel" actually flows down all in one direction and just empties under the car. Fingers crossed that this is the final fix.
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Did you happen to get the part number for the new part? My SC is replacing my filter assembly and just waiting for parts to arrive.
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
The fine folks at filterwears are making a prefilter sock (will go over the air intake) for me that allows air passage with minimal pressure drop and keeps out water.
Also have an appointment at the local service center in Atlanta for the filter assembly replacement
Also have an appointment at the local service center in Atlanta for the filter assembly replacement
5 min fix vs 2hours and a service center visit. Remember the key is keeping your tesla away from the service centers……
NarTaX
Member
Did you have to pay for the assembly? Cost? Contemplating if I should do the housing cover too but I have a feeling moisture will still down down to the filter even with the new design.
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
Where there is a will… there is a way!
$20 hydrophobic prefilter fabric from filterwears. I turned biodefence mode on and the fabric didn’t move. No air construction. Let’s see how well this works keeping water out.
Proper fitted sock will take 3 weeks and I’ll replace this with that when it comes
$20 hydrophobic prefilter fabric from filterwears. I turned biodefence mode on and the fabric didn’t move. No air construction. Let’s see how well this works keeping water out.
Proper fitted sock will take 3 weeks and I’ll replace this with that when it comes
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josahua
Member
Having the same issue and hope these fixes remove the problem going forward for some but I haven't observed any water or "wetness" on or near my HEPA. I pulled it out and inspected and gave it the "sniff" test. I am definitely getting condensation build up within the system. Two things strike me:
1) How do we blow out / clear the drain hose or at least confirm its working? I think I see it when I remove the HEPA filter housing but there is no way I am reaching it without putting the car on a lift and likely removing a cover somewhere..... My immediate concern is I KNOW I am generating condensation but I never see a puddle under my car like you would typically see.
2) I still haven't found a reasonable approach to getting to the evaporator coil to apply the foam cleaner and clear the existing bacteria. A couple interesting approaches in this thread but nothing I would say is concrete. Do we have a solid picture (borescope, diagram, etc.) of where the coil is located?
3) Also, anybody have a favorite cabin filter? Are any of these charcoal/baking soda layered filters helpful or just gimmicky?
1) How do we blow out / clear the drain hose or at least confirm its working? I think I see it when I remove the HEPA filter housing but there is no way I am reaching it without putting the car on a lift and likely removing a cover somewhere..... My immediate concern is I KNOW I am generating condensation but I never see a puddle under my car like you would typically see.
2) I still haven't found a reasonable approach to getting to the evaporator coil to apply the foam cleaner and clear the existing bacteria. A couple interesting approaches in this thread but nothing I would say is concrete. Do we have a solid picture (borescope, diagram, etc.) of where the coil is located?
3) Also, anybody have a favorite cabin filter? Are any of these charcoal/baking soda layered filters helpful or just gimmicky?
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MFrunkerOG
Active Member
See the underside of your hood. If there is traces of water condensation / dried water spots there (just above the air intake grill) , you’ve had water on your filter, even if it dried when you went looking.
A simple test is to mist the hepa filter with a little water and then sniff it. The funk smells specially on humid / rainy days
Sorry cannot answer your other questions because there is no aftermarket filter yet, getting to the drain requires removing the cover under the car, the coil treatment has still not been figured out
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