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This is great... they were not selling the filter separately before and I had to purchase the entire housing and filter for $260+tax.

I installed this on my dash but found it created too much glare on my side windows at night even with the dimmer turned all the way down. The control box also loses its last state memory overnight too. Unplugged them and sorta lost interest after that.

Current EPC has this listed for the round wheel now: ROUND STEERING WHEEL - MECHANICAL HORN Steering Wheel 1965073-00-A must be installed with steering wheel DAB 1965183-00-A. Firmware update required. Perhaps new orders of the wheel retrofit will use that wheel?

Nah. They wouldn’t fit anyways.

I used a pressure bleeder and didn't have any issues. Rears need about 25psi though.

I installed myself and purchased only the 4 calipers @$440 each. They came preloaded with pads. I don't know why you would need new hoses when they are the exact same calipers with a different color. When I did the swap, the only way to trigger the ABS pump for bleeding was through a toolbox sub...

Consider yourself lucky... the AP nags are crazy. Look down for a few seconds and you'll get a warning. Since I don't have FSD enabled, covering up the cabin camera works who knows for how long.

Yes... exactly the same calipers but the rear Mandos have a larger faux cover. They came loaded with the "upgraded" pads.

The right side of my hatch has always been misaligned. The exposed area by the badge bugs me the most. Is this adjustable by loosening the torx bolts or do I have to go under the headliner?

If anyone that has a fouled up evaporator coil instead of the HEPA filter:

$440 each

Think I'm wrong about it just being painted. Probably powercoated and baked with the seals since they can handle that heat. I got the calipers from my local service center and they came loaded with pads. Both Tesla and a local shop wanted about $1k to swap the calipers so I did it myself. Took...

How did you resolve this? Were you able to rebleed the rears properly at 30psi?

Tesla red calipers are painted and not powercoated. I can see red overspray on the piston seals.

Calipers are $440 each according to my service center.

There's a rotating door behind the HEPA filter that leads directly to the blower motor so no coil access from the front. Fan speed determines how wide the door opens. Low: High:

I went through the EPC and they're listed as over the counter: BRAKE CALIPER FL M4.42/44 IRON RED - 1420623-00-B BRAKE CALIPER FR M4.42/44 IRON RED - 1420624-00-B BRAKE CALIPER RL MOC 43 IRON RED - 1420643-00-A BRAKE CALIPER RR MOC 43 IRON RED - 1420644-00-A ...if you want red. The calipers...

Has anyone priced out the red calipers and pads from service? Might be cheaper to swap them out yourselves or at an independent shop.

I will probably just swap the housing cover and save the new filter. Maybe they know the older revisions are bad and making everyone buy a new housing when they replace the filter.

This is crazy, so they don't sell the filter itself (1647254-00-A). They only sell the entire assembly (1750575-00-C). Parts guy claimed they do that because its easier to replace. I'm sure I can swap a filter faster than unbolting the entire thing. I ended up getting it anyways since my housing...

Yes you need to unbolt the battery and push it down to get the cover off.

I think the filterwears should go in this area... it gives any water collected on the filter surface a chance to drip down to the water collection area down below. Get their 18"x18" filter sheet, cut and glue to that area.

Did you have to pay for the assembly? Cost? Contemplating if I should do the housing cover too but I have a feeling moisture will still down down to the filter even with the new design.

PM sent

How are the Pirelli P Zero (PZ4) or the Michelin Pilot Sport EV compared to the PS4S? Wear post camber kit and alignment has been even but I think I have about 5k left on them.

1750575-00-C Is the entire housing; “HEPA assembly”. 1647254-00-A is the filter element

I opened a service request asking to purchase the filter with 1647254-00-A as the part number. The cost is $260 before tax.

Bump. Firesale...

Find something close enough... cut out the old filter from the plastic frame and hot glue in the replacement.

Pulled the filter, had part number 1647254-00-A on top of it. It was dry and I couldn't really smell it. Sprayed 99% alcohol on it and let it dry out for a while and reinstalled. Rolled down the windows and blasted the air for a while to get everything out. I'll see how it smells tomorrow.

I'll try to order one from Tesla. Part no 1750575-00-C was mentioned earlier. Maybe I'll try Lysol the filter in the meanwhile.

I bought a can of Kool-it thinking the refresh is like the other cars. Realized the coil wasn't anywhere near the cabin filter after pulling it... I don't even know how it works with that big ass gap down there either. Are the coils accessible from the HEPA filter housing? Or should I spray it...

My 2022 has the dreaded stinky AC smell and I want to clean it out with the evap foam cleaner. I pulled the cabin filter and couldn't find the evap coil. Anyone know where its located? Would going through the front behind the HEPA filter work?

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/6726625/ You'll need metric socket wrenches and a torque wrench. Raise the car up a bit. I have the safejacks but you can probably jack each side up and put some blocks under each wheel. Remove the front lower splash guard. Remove and clean up the bash...

Stock, no lowering links.

2x Tempest rear 10.5x19 with 285/40R19 Pirelli P Zero (PZ4) tires. TPMS included. They're brand new and never been driven on. Why am I selling only the rears? Well I bought a set from someone before the summer, threw them in storage for a while. Finally pulled them out and realized I had 4 rear...

Got my an alignment with the N2itive arms. They were really tough for the tech to adjust from the bottom of the car so it took a while to dial in. I set my arms on +3 during installation so was less than stock. Front was toed out a bit from the factory. before: after:

I think its both... on stock alignment, we haven't seen any complaints from folks with stock 19s or aftermarket 20s. For some reason that PS4 has issues with the S and we've seen plenty of pictures of wear on the extreme inner edge while the rest of the tread is fine. Who knows how long it...

Yeah it’s hard. I don’t see any obstruction with the collar lock facing back or up so that could work

Installed the SX-P2's yesterday. Pretty straightforward. The strut is in the way of one of the upper bolts but a swivel socket gets around that. They provided 2 new bolts for the upper mount but I used the stock ones. The 2 lock bolts to lock the adjuster face down and I found it pretty tricky...

My rear left inner tread @5600 miles. All stock with no lowering links and I can see signs of the inner wear. Unfortunately I have a small puncture almost at the edge from a nail that can't be repaired. I'll probably get a set of N2itive arms to add some camber after I get the tire replaced...

yeah car is fine

2022.28.2, didn't watch it the entire time but it was 30% when I last saw it.

I just got 2022.36.1 earlier which is supposed to fix the noise but the update failed :-(.

That would suck. Guess I’ll figure that out soon after I get my cable. I’m fine with the turn buttons actually but it will just be fun to figure this stuff out. One thing I do miss are traditional wiper controls on the stalk. Screw the vision based auto wipers.

Was hoping for more info from Ryan but it’s been a while so I decided to drink a few beers and figure out how these things work. Was able to read the resistance values from the 3 sets of stalk functions (wipers, beams, signals) to map them out. Probably map out the right stalk later too but...

How long do the Bosch Aerotwins last and perform? My favorite are the PIAA Si-Tech blades... I put them on on every car I've owned. Hope they come up with a 2021+ fitment by the time the OEM ones wear out.

Yes the 2 outermost ones on the front edge.

I dropped the skidplate. Cleaned it up and reinstalled and the noise went away for now. There’s two 13mm bolts that attaches the plate to the square aluminum tube above it. That tube has a nutsert and I can reproduce that clicking noise if I just snug the bolts and push the tube around. When...

Center airbag horn would be great… I’ve looked at the airbag on mine and I think Elon is screwing with us when he said the horn can be enabled with software later. I’ll give them some more time for the steering wheel and hopefully things will work out.