RGB Ambient Lighting project for Palladium Model S - lets do it

[Proppilot]

Those who have done the Doors on the S have said the same. No reliable 12v source to tap into. It’s one of the reasons I haven’t done that portion yet. The ambient light circuit is in the doors connected to the pocket light, but I’m not sure if it’s 12v or if it would accept the amperage change.

I’ve heard that those who tried ended up tripping the efuse and setting a code. They switched to the dedicated run.

I haven’t forgotten about posting additional pictures. Just been busy helping others with the Matrix conversions and rear lights.

I think in the end, the dedicated power run to each door is the easiest thing to do and will not trip any e-fuses in the door circuits. Take one wire from the charger tray and out to the driver door and branch off at the floor level and into the left pax door. Then only one wire to have to switch at the power end for the left side and repeat on right side.

 

[Faksnima]

Tesla is rumored to announced ambient lighting and a bumper camera for S and X today. Maybe their implantation can help guide ours.

 

[vcor]

Perhaps Tesla will have an upgrade kit, but if so, it will be expensive, assuming the various panels need to be replaced and they can connect to the existing wiring.

 

[Proppilot]

like everything, you will be able to buy the parts but will have to 'know a guy' to code the car :-|

 

[Faksnima]

I wonder if Tesla’s lighting is going to be run off the preexisting wiring and they found a solution? One can hope.

 

[S3pirion]

@vcor confirming that the 2021+ refresh s’s should output no power from the center console power socket when the car is off but sentry is on?

Is the car considered “on” when the LV battery is charging? Or is it only “on” when someone is in the car/drive rails engaged.

Ideally i’d like a power source for this project that only is powered when the car is actually running. I used to have a 3 that i did something similar to but the 12v socket was always powered.

 

[diddydee]

like everything, you will be able to buy the parts but will have to 'know a guy' to code the car :-|

Is there any precedent for retrofitting Tesla parts and having someone with toolbox or what not code it in?

If so, what's the typical approach? (SC, local shop, etc.)

 

[Proppilot]

@vcor confirming that the 2021+ refresh s’s should output no power from the center console power socket when the car is off but sentry is on?

Is the car considered “on” when the LV battery is charging? Or is it only “on” when someone is in the car/drive rails engaged.

Ideally i’d like a power source for this project that only is powered when the car is actually running. I used to have a 3 that i did something similar to but the 12v socket was always powered.

The power that feeds the centre console charger powers on and off with the vehicle so that is a good source. Not as easy as just plugging into the (12) 15 volts

 

[S3pirion]

The power that feeds the centre console charger powers on and off with the vehicle so that is a good source. Not as easy as just plugging into the (12) 15 volts

Does sentry mode effect this? I’d rather not have the vehicle flash the interior LED’s every time someone walks past my car.

Also, i’ve been thinking about the 12v/control module run for the doors. a good angle of attack would probably be to remove the door card, remove the speaker, and then fish the wire through the rubber grommet into the a pillar. The service manual steps for replacing the door harness are a little misleading since it assumes you need to remove the whole harness. There are a few videos of people doing this to model 3’s. I’d then either route the wire through the door closeout panel (removing the bottom right bolts then fishing the wire through the existing port) or perhaps behind the speaker and up.

 

[GetYourWheels]

Does sentry mode effect this? I’d rather not have the vehicle flash the interior LED’s every time someone walks past my car.

Also, i’ve been thinking about the 12v/control module run for the doors. a good angle of attack would probably be to remove the door card, remove the speaker, and then fish the wire through the rubber grommet into the a pillar. The service manual steps for replacing the door harness are a little misleading since it assumes you need to remove the whole harness. There are a few videos of people doing this to model 3’s. I’d then either route the wire through the door closeout panel (removing the bottom right bolts then fishing the wire through the existing port) or perhaps behind the speaker and up.

The power stays on with sentry, it will turn off when the car goes to deep sleep
It wouldnt be flashing and turning on/off though, it would just stay on the entire time sentry is on

 

[vcor]

Keep in mind multiple LV power rails are powered on/off for different reasons. I tested out several conditions with meters tied to different power points. It also varies by model and variant, which I've covered quite a few (but not all). It took quite a bit of effort to collect the info, with a video camera inside the car recording voltage changes as the car powers down. Here are all the gory details: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap

The power outlet is off when Sentry mode is on or off. It remains on in Camp mode.

 

[S3pirion]

Keep in mind multiple LV power rails are powered on/off for different reasons. I tested out several conditions with meters tied to different power points. It also varies by model and variant, which I've covered quite a few (but not all). It took quite a bit of effort to collect the info, with a video camera inside the car recording voltage changes as the car powers down. Here are all the gory details: Accessory Power Guide 12v/5v – TeslaTap

The power outlet is off when Sentry mode is on or off. It remains on in Camp mode.

Thanks for the info! It’s weird that the behavior differs between the 3/S, but that power point fulfills my needs perfectly.

I think I’m going to go with the above linked Dreamcolor kit but with the single control box, then just run the wires with extenders throughout the instrument panel through the doors/dash/center console. There is a small gap in the center console box where i’m pretty sure i can feed wires through.

 

[Proppilot]

Wow ! great information being provided and thank you ! A view back to the beginning of the thread and why I am installing the opto isolated relay unit that will be controlled by the ambient light signal. FYI the wiring diagram for our cars is open domain at service.tesla.com and after checking those, power will definitely have to be routed (as mentioned above through the door pillar boot) and the current 'ambient light' signal has a +/- power back to the body controller so a great trigger for the relay. This way, the ambient lights will go ON/OFF exactly when the current cabin lighting does and if the centre console power stays on until deep sleep, it will not matter.

 

[S3pirion]

Wow ! great information being provided and thank you ! A view back to the beginning of the thread and why I am installing the opto isolated relay unit that will be controlled by the ambient light signal. FYI the wiring diagram for our cars is open domain at service.tesla.com and after checking those, power will definitely have to be routed (as mentioned above through the door pillar boot) and the current 'ambient light' signal has a +/- power back to the body controller so a great trigger for the relay. This way, the ambient lights will go ON/OFF exactly when the current cabin lighting does and if the centre console power stays on until deep sleep, it will not matter.

Yep I've been consulting the wiring/connector ref as well as the service manual while planning this out. My particular wants is something that stays on no matter the ambient light setting while the car is on (i can dim from app or press the switch in the center console to toggle), so I'm not concerned about the relay being present unless the power port idea doesn't work out and I need to pivot. I think my only open question is routing from center console outwards to the doors. I'm pretty sure there are a few service panels/covers i can feed the wiring behind, but if anyone has done the doors before please let me know the best way to do it!

Stuff will arrive Friday and I should be able to hit it early Saturday.

 

[S3pirion]

Stuff came in. Was able to confirm that with a butt not in the seat and the door shut the center console power socket produces 0v, even when sentry is triggered. So that works!

A note on that dreamcolor amazon kit: The connectors are 4pin JST PH 2mm connectors (while only using 3 of the pins), which a majority of the readily available LED lighting parts use 3pin JST locking connectors. I’m going to end up using a barrel connector splitter to split the power between the kit’s control module and an extra sp110e lighting controller that uses the 3pin JST connector for the footwell light strips i have planned.

will post some pictures as I go along tomorrow

 

[Proppilot]

I took a chance and bought this kit to be used for the door pocket wells.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09W17N3JF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I unsoldered the four units from the little controller and wired to the RGB controller and they work perfectly. I will use one of these in each of the door wells and they give off a great amount of light. Tomorrow I will pull the drivers door and figure it all out.

This is the wire I purchased to run to each of the controllers

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C6KDGY1L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

The plan is a controller in each door and the four doors 'home run' with power to the centre console where I will mount the relay that wires to the existing ambient lighting circuit and will tap power from the phone charger tray. The new RGB lights will be WAY brighter than the existing white units so I will likely not disturb any of the existing lighting. Will also start to post some pictures as I progress.

 

[S3pirion]

Exhausted, but the job is done.

I ran into a few issues(?) getting access to various things/removing things because my car was so well put together. There were extra clips in a few places for harnesses and they must have added super glue to the phone dock clips because GOOD GOD i couldn’t get it off.

Routing the cables through the gap in the back wall of the lower cubby in the center console and out through the phone dock worked perfectly. I ended up prerunning the wires to the doors and bundling them up for whenever i get to the doors, but i’ll easily be able to run them through the insulation grommet and behind the door speaker, so i won’t have to fully tear the car apart again. Removing the footwell covers on both sides (held in by magnets) and tucking the cable underneath worked really well.

One note of warning: the carrier bolts for the screen are a bitch and a half to access/take out/replace. That took a solid 30 minutes for both removal/install and was the longest part.

Will showcase the finished result tomorrow.

 

[Proppilot]

Watched a few more Youtube videos last night as I did not realize (or know that) the sides of the console pop off easily. Having viewed some other install videos it looks like taking out the front seats may be useful (and quite easy to do with four bolts). Did you have to remove the screen carrier bolts because your screen does not articulate ? Mine has the 'manual/electric' install I did and I can fully retract and extend it on left and right side so I am hoping I can do the work without removing them. They are definitely a b+1/2 to work on. Going to pull a door off now so I can assess/photograph and fit up the upper light strip and the bin lights. Will post. That area in the console beneath the charger tray has a very nice area for putting control boxes !

 

[leecox]

Watched a few more Youtube videos last night as I did not realize (or know that) the sides of the console pop off easily. Having viewed some other install videos it looks like taking out the front seats may be useful (and quite easy to do with four bolts). Did you have to remove the screen carrier bolts because your screen does not articulate ? Mine has the 'manual/electric' install I did and I can fully retract and extend it on left and right side so I am hoping I can do the work without removing them. They are definitely a b+1/2 to work on. Going to pull a door off now so I can assess/photograph and fit up the upper light strip and the bin lights. Will post. That area in the console beneath the charger tray has a very nice area for putting control boxes !

I ended up taking the screen out to run the dash pieces and route the cables. Much easier with it out of the way. I put my control box underneath the charging pad with 3M foam tape.

I’ll also add that I’ve take the screen out a lot with all the mods and stuff I’ve done. The bolts are a pain. They are located in the corners of the opening and they are vertical. Easier to locate with the fingers to remove them. 10mm long socket with an extension is how I get them out. Put the ratchet on, loose the bolt, take the ratchet off, then unscrew it by hand. Be careful and don’t drop the bolt. It’ll go down into the console then you have to take the drivers side trim panel off and use a magnetic tool to pull it off a ledge on the AC ducting.

 

[S3pirion]

Watched a few more Youtube videos last night as I did not realize (or know that) the sides of the console pop off easily. Having viewed some other install videos it looks like taking out the front seats may be useful (and quite easy to do with four bolts). Did you have to remove the screen carrier bolts because your screen does not articulate ? Mine has the 'manual/electric' install I did and I can fully retract and extend it on left and right side so I am hoping I can do the work without removing them. They are definitely a b+1/2 to work on. Going to pull a door off now so I can assess/photograph and fit up the upper light strip and the bin lights. Will post. That area in the console beneath the charger tray has a very nice area for putting control boxes !

I would definitely remove the side panels (not all the way, just peel the front section back and loosen the top panel all the way if running lights on the center console). Makes routing easier.

I had to remove the screen to hide the dash wiring behind the shroud. It’s also a requirement for removing the dash trim (white/cream/brown paneling). The removal is honestly rather easy step wise, but those damn bolts are annoying as hell.

Yeah my control boxes and wiring are all in the bottom bin. I opted to feed all the excess wire through and bundle/stuff it in the empty space behind the phone dock cover