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Running a Tesla after Irene took the power

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For those with natural gas, a natural gas powered emergency generator can be a good idea since many times the power goes out due to wind.

On the other hand, in a big earthquake, you could lose power and natural gas at the same time.
 
Not necessarily. It depends on the installation:

We have a bi-directional metering system so we over-produce during the day and draw from the grid at night (or in bad weather). We are also registered with the local emergency authorities and the utility company as we can still keep pumping out our excess power even if a power line goes down. On the side of our house there's a huge cut-off lever in bright red so that it can be turned off in the event of technicians working on the lines. It just so happens that we are in the middle of our rainy season and we had a stormy day yesterday which led to a power out at 3.55pm. See the production graph below; it was a very erratic day with storms coming and going. It was cloudy and semi-dark but we carried on producing power and the "dip" in current caused my computer to restart but we didn't lose power completely as our neighbors did - the power out only lasted a minute or so but with clear skies we could have kept going with HVAC and everything so long as we had sunshine and the technicians didn't require we shutdown. Having said all that, it's quite possible that a bi-directional meter was just too expensive to install for one public charging station.
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Looks like you have a standard grid-tied PV system using Enphase micro-inverters.

All grid-tied PV systems are required to automatically shut down whenever the grid goes out of range. This means if the grid voltage goes a bit low, or a bit high, or a bit out of frequency.

There really is no danger to linemen by your PV system - that big red disconnect you have is because utilities are paranoid. In real life, utilities have found that they never use them. The big utilities in California no longer require grid disconnects for PV systems thus slightly reducing costs (figure $100-200 to install an AC disconnect).

All grid-tied PV systems are bi-directional - basically all this means is that your PV system generates all the power it can - if it generates more than what your house is using at the time, your meter spins backwards. If not - it spins forwards as usual.

Off-grid PV systems are not economical. They require a big battery bank to store energy, typically lead acid because it's cheapest. Efficiency losses due to battery charging/discharging cuts your usable energy by up to 50%.

Much more cost effective to use the grid as a big battery (at least until we have too much PV, but we're a long ways from that!)
 
Which brings us back to the idea that most solar installs aren't going to be useful as a backup to run your house or charge your car when the grid is down. We still need to work to make a reliable grid even when nature is threatening to break things. Having every house run in "survivalist mode" with a self contained power generating island seems like a wasted effort.

In some places with unreliable grid, it could fall on some local entity to provide backup power.
Reminds me how Fairbanks, Alaska has a UPS for the whole city:
Aug. 27, 2003: The Lights Will Stay On in Fairbanks
 
I tried charging off of a genset. It didn't work and errored with a Line Sync Fault.

FYI Blink Network specs minimum charge rate of 5A, but that still is an implausibly large solar array.
 
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I talked to the Rangers about it. They said that if the Model S has a J1772, a retrofit kit will be available.

Huh? I think at this point we all but assume that Model S will have J1772 (perhaps through an adapter).
But why would Model S offering j1772 mean that retrofits for Roadsters would happen?
They already offer an adapter cable for the Roadster.
 
Huh? I think at this point we all but assume that Model S will have J1772 (perhaps through an adapter).
But why would Model S offering j1772 mean that retrofits for Roadsters would happen?
They already offer an adapter cable for the Roadster.

Don't know. Just what the ranger said. But you know what assumptions make don't you?

I would take the plunge and convert my roadster to J1772 if the Model S uses J1772 as a primary charge port. It looks like 5 bolts on the charge port. Then make an adaptor plate using my 3d printer to prototype the plate and have a plate machined out of aluminum.


Saw the same on the news. Apparently someone SCRAMed the reactor.