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Your reply shows that you read nothing carefully and talk out of your feet. I'll save you from the hassle of clicking on the link in my message and reading in detail, and select for you the most relevant part:



So this is an official Tesla adapter, sold by Tesla, and included in some older Tesla loaners.

Your reply shows you cannot read, go back to school and learn since I specifically said use only the Tesla made adapter. Goodbye
 
I keep hearing that somehow a car with 50K miles is not worth as much as a car with 45K miles. How come? Is the wear and tear on the engine going to make it break down sooner? Is a car with 1000 miles on it somehow worth less?

No.

The warranty on the battery is eight YEARS. There are no mileage constraints. So why are people continuing to use the old metric for gas engines? I would guess that they are still measuring Teslas by gas car engine standards. Which is dumb.

My car has 97,000+ miles on it. Never changed the oil, adjusted the valves, changed piston rings, or replaced the filters. And I don't intend to. I still have three years of warranty on the battery. The car is not wearing out. This is not a burner. Obviously some of these people are unable to move into the Electric Power Generation Era.
If the car isn’t worth less with more miles then why is Tesla selling it for less? Why is Tesla the manufacturer giving a larger discount on vehicles with more miles on them?

You’ve made some dumb posts over the years but this one takes the cake. let me guess you also believe Elon Musk and the claim that Teslas are an appreciating asset.
 
100,000 miles is nothing, neither is 8 years.
As we don't really have any vehicles to compare our cars batteries to, lets compare to my own equipment and tools and computers that I have that are aging. (Hang in with me on this)

My first laptop, Received on October 21, 1998. I still have it. It still works, and use it for retro computer games on Windows 1998 SE. It spent most of its useful life on battery. It's mostly been stored since 2008 when the LCD screen's backlight burned out. The lithium battery was stored at ~50% SOC. I haven't touched it in about 3 years. So for the purpose of this discussion, I just went and powered it on. Other than a low clock battery warning (A CR2032 cell, same as in the Model S FOB), still had 38% battery power after that storage. The original battery remembers. I did benchmark the batter before storage, and it was holding about 80% of it's designed (LABEL) capacity.
My moms old laptop, a older than my first one, Toshiba Sattelite 2032, originally Windows 95 upgraded to 1998, it's a POS, but had serial ports, so I used them for programming electric car motor controllers. I still use it every few months. Improperly stored on a shelf in my garage. Battery still holds about 60% of its original charge after 23 years. Also spent most of its life on battery power then recharged.

My cordless Craftsman NexTec drills. When I had my Motorcycle & Electric Car shop, I had one setup as a screw gun, the other as a socket driver. Both would be drained once-two times/day, and they even had a drill equivalent of a supercharger, that would get me 25% charge in 2 minutes. These are small 12v drills, 3x 18650 cells. HARD and HEAVY use for a solid 4 years before I closed my shop down. I still have and use these drills at least a couple times/week. Still original batteries. I also use the same batteries on a portable shop vac, oscillating multi-tool and auto hammer. Cells are rated at 1.5 ah, and as of last summer, the 9/10 year old cells still test out on my benchmark unit at 1.3ah. Not bad at all.

My home Vacuum, Hoover 18v something or other, cant remember the exact name, excellent vacuum until wife demanded a Dyson V10 this past summer for her birthday (Gave the Hoover to my mom). About 6 years old. Battery discharged once/day to once/two days. And those batteries got pretty hot if you ran it the full cycle. Never benchmarked, but run time was about 20 minutes when new, and was about 18 minutes when I gave them to my mom.

My old Dell Mini 9 Netbook. Tiny little bugger, but so so useful, had full install of XP on it. Used the heck out of that at my shop, as it was small enough to fit in the pocket of my cargo pants. During the summer months, it would be on the battery from 10 am to 5pm, from May-mid September. Got it in 2008 as a special Dell deal. That battery held with that use for 3 years. 100% Charge then about 10% left when it got plugged in before closing for the evening. Now, this one was a special case. The BATTERY was still good, HOWEVER, Dell programmed in planned obsolescence. After XX to -XXX number of battery cycles, it would artificially reduce battery capacity, until eventually, it would not run off battery at all. After it finally got to that point where it would not run off battery at all, at about 5 year mark, I opened the battery pack, 4x 18650 cells, and benchmarked AND load-tested each one. Well WTF, tested at 95% of the label's stated capacity! What a crock of crap... Got replacement after market battery for it, one that did not have that planned obsolesce in it, and it's been good to go ever since. I use it now for monitoring my Bitcoin miners. At idle, it only draws 1-2 watts, at full usage, about 10 watts. Intel Atom, amazing processors!

My WORX lawn tools, 20v batteries, going on 6 years with them, still chugging away. No noticeable runtime loss. I can tell as the smaller battery is enough to do my front sidewalk with my trimmer, and just barely use the blower to blow the trimmings, and timing when it runs out of power is just about the same. The Medium battery I have is enough to trim my 7 1/2" Ride on railroad train track in the back yard, go all the way around twice, to trim the grass growing on each rail (450 ft of track, so 900 ft of trimming to go around twice). The LARGE battery is enough for my Jawsaw to cut a cord of firewood, and then blow the sawdust onto the lawn when done before it's dead, and still holding. Heavily used tools and batteries.

My Sunjoe/Snowjoe tools & batteries. I use the living heck out of my Sunjoe 40v 16' chainsaw all summer. Parents have a motel on a lake in the midwest's largest tourist city, Wisconsin Dells, and they provide a campfire each night. So I cut ALL the wood with my Sunjoe chainsaw. Probably 20-30 cords of wood/summer from May through end of September, then also cut my own firewood for the winter (Yes, I use all already downed wood from storms, tree trimmers etc... for both home and the Motel. The area gets a lot of downed trees after storms, so firewoods a plenty!). Now, the same batteries work for my Snowjoe Snowblower. So all winter, I use a combination of my chainsaw, and my snowblower. Same batteries, going on 6 years. I tested each one down to the watt-hour for capacity when new. after 6 years, each of my two batteries has lost about 20 Watt-Hours.




So, what was the purpose of this huge post? Heres my point.
Tesla batteries, realistically, are BABIED in comparison to other batteries. With the BMS controlling temperatures, both keeping the batteries cool, and warm as needed. Keeping the cells balanced and in their happy place. Controlling charge rates more logically from start to finish. And also the sheer number of cells, keeping the demand on any single cell fairly low except in the most demanding of situations (Such as Wide Open Throttle), these cells are well taken care of. Sure they are in a car, but compare to even a cordless drill battery. It's thrown carelessly in a tool bad, dropped on the concrete, run and run and run until HOT HOT HOT.
Heck, even supercharging isn't REALLY the most stressful thing on these batteries. Commenting based on the older 120kW charge rate, not the newer 250kW whatever. Based on the 120kW charge rate, a 85kWh or 90kWh pack, each cell is getting charged at 16-17 Watt at PEAK charge rate. Heck, my 12v Nextec drill charger charges at 15 watt/cell, at normal charge rate, and if I hit that boost button, we're looking at about 41-45 watt/cell for a solid two minutes (At about 125 watt output to boost charge the 3 cell pack) with No Thermal Management what so ever.

Based on how well taken care of a Tesla pack is supposed to be, other than a manufacturing defect, if the BMS does it's JOB, I would expect at least 20 years of USEABLE decent range and performance out of my pack and 400-500,000 miles before I should even need to consider a replacement.
WIth low mileage, if stored or kept at a lower, say, 50-70% SOC, I personally don't see why someone couldn't expect 20-30 years out of the pack, barring manufacturing defect, or component failure elsewhere. The cells are supposed to be formulated for EV use, and the demands of a EV. And at the price point of these vehicles, and the ground up design for their purpose, I don't think I'm too far out there in thinking that.


/End_Caffine_Fuled_Rant_That_Was_Sparked_By_Something_Completly_Unrelated_To_The_Quoted_Post_Apologies
A bunch of complete nonsense. Why don't you use your energy doing or saying some useful related to this thread. If you dont, spare us rant
 
Looking at your posts you don't seem to like anything Tesla has done in the brief time you have been here.
looking at your post ...you are a piece of work.
Just shut the hell up if you can't talk intelligently about the topic. This isn't the "Luke Forum". I hate people like you that aren't capable of staying on tiopic and instead make it about the person. Do you go and tell all the other people that say nothing but "Hugs and Kisses" for Tesla that they must like Tesla. No. So get a grip you imbecile. If you don't like what I say even if it is the truth then too bad.
My posts pretty much are very pro Cyber. My main negative with the Cyber is that I like it so much more than the name implies. I feel as though Big E is pre-conditioning the Populace to think the Cyber is a truck, when in fact it is so much more than a truck. So go to hell if you can't stay on topic, ya fruitcake.
 
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Before the above post gets locked / moved, I now understand fully the OPs posts in this thread.
thanks,
That's all I thought should be done...explain that while the Solarglass/powerwall could be the right thing financially for a segment of the country, It is NOT true that if you need a new roof and are going to get solar that the Solarglass/powerwall combo is a good financial decision for ALL the USA.
(Sidebar as to idiotic statement made by Madodel. I think he based his "impression" by reading the last 10 posts I have made. And since most of them have been in this thread explaining why Solarglass is NOT the right choice just because you need a new roof and were going to get solar that Solarglass is the best choice. OF course on this one thread I am not going to appear to be pro solarglass/powerwall.)
 
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I wouldn't think Tesla would do it on purpose but an update to the software might trigger something. I still have the airbags that need replacing. Other than airbags and seat belts,there was no electrical damage to the car. One problem with Tesla is that one can't just call a service manager and get good information like any other car. They ask for the vin number and send one away with a rebuild title. This car has only 4K miles on it.

Wow, four airbags blown and you're driving around as if it's no big deal?

I'm glad that Tesla has shut you down. Your heirs would be first in line to sue Tesla for a "defective" car if you're killed in a minor collision, especially since your "repairs" are likely quite suspect/substandard given your cavalier attitude toward safety.

Geesh.
 
Ahhhhh how hot does glass have to get to warp? Pictures please.
I know you probably failed physics in school, but I will explain.

When same piece of material is exposed to different conditions (in this case temperature) it will warp or change shape.

When using defroster it happens and glass is warped, everything is distorted when you are looking through it. I might try to take a picture next time.
 
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I know you probably failed physics in school, but I will explain.

When same piece of material is exposed to different conditions (in this case temperature) it will warp or change shape.

When using defroster it happens and glass is warped, everything is distorted when you are looking through it. I might try to take a picture next time.
Quite a rude reply to someone who asked a simple question. I personally never took physics in school, but understand plenty, regarding physics, and most science topics. School isn’t a relevant measure of one’s intelligence.

I also don’t diminish people, when they ask questions.

That being said, I’ve been in subzero temps, several times, and recently through several snowstorms, and never once had this issue. I’ve used my rear defrost plenty.

Pictures would probably help your SC, determine a suitable course of action. Sounds like a replacement glass is in order.

Best of luck to you.
 
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Quite a rude reply to someone who asked a simple question. I personally never took physics in school, but understand plenty, regarding physics, and most science topics. School isn’t a relevant measure of one’s intelligence.

I also don’t diminish people, when they ask questions.

That being said, I’ve been in subzero temps, several times, and recently through several snowstorms, and never once had this issue. I’ve used my rear defrost plenty.

Pictures would probably help your SC, determine a suitable course of action. Sounds like a replacement glass is in order.

Best of luck to you.
Maybe it was rude. But I assume people are stupid by default. Anybody starting their sentence with "Ahhhhh" is stupid in my book. Or people that only say "...wut". And don't patronize me, which is also "diminishing". This is internet after all. Also a lot of biased fan boys here assume that I'm saying something to *sugar* on Tesla. Excuse me if I underestimate the level of intelligence of internet trolls, kids, idiots, people looking for attention, etc that are also present on this forum.

Now, emotions aside. It's good that your car has not such issues. I assume you pay attention to what you see through the rear window. Mine warps around the areas that has wires running through. If yours has not such issue then I might have a warranty case. Coupled with the fact that at -5-10C my rear window starts to make cracking sounds when turning, I starting to think it's defective in a sense that it's not as thick as it is on your car for example. That would support the fact that people have reported rear window actually cracking when defroster is on.

Good luck to you too!
 
Maybe it was rude. But I assume people are stupid by default. Anybody starting their sentence with "Ahhhhh" is stupid in my book. Or people that only say "...wut". And don't patronize me, which is also "diminishing". This is internet after all. Also a lot of biased fan boys here assume that I'm saying something to *sugar* on Tesla. Excuse me if I underestimate the level of intelligence of internet trolls, kids, idiots, people looking for attention, etc that are also present on this forum.

Now, emotions aside. It's good that your car has not such issues. I assume you pay attention to what you see through the rear window. Mine warps around the areas that has wires running through. If yours has not such issue then I might have a warranty case. Coupled with the fact that at -5-10C my rear window starts to make cracking sounds when turning, I starting to think it's defective in a sense that it's not as thick as it is on your car for example. That would support the fact that people have reported rear window actually cracking when defroster is on.

Good luck to you too!
Don’t get me wrong. The internet is full of the worst of humanity, which is unfortunate.

I would absolutely suspect you have a case for warranty, especially if you are seeing that. I know the pattern of the heat element is a bit different, than the standard horizontal pattern.

Hopefully they resolve your issue, and you are able to get back to enjoying your vehicle, issue free.
 
I know you probably failed physics in school, but I will explain.

When same piece of material is exposed to different conditions (in this case temperature) it will warp or change shape.

When using defroster it happens and glass is warped, everything is distorted when you are looking through it. I might try to take a picture next time.
Lol. Yeah right........good luck with your issue buddy.
 
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Maybe it was rude. But I assume people are stupid by default. Anybody starting their sentence with "Ahhhhh" is stupid in my book. Or people that only say "...wut". And don't patronize me, which is also "diminishing". This is internet after all. Also a lot of biased fan boys here assume that I'm saying something to *sugar* on Tesla. Excuse me if I underestimate the level of intelligence of internet trolls, kids, idiots, people looking for attention, etc that are also present on this forum.

Now, emotions aside. It's good that your car has not such issues. I assume you pay attention to what you see through the rear window. Mine warps around the areas that has wires running through. If yours has not such issue then I might have a warranty case. Coupled with the fact that at -5-10C my rear window starts to make cracking sounds when turning, I starting to think it's defective in a sense that it's not as thick as it is on your car for example. That would support the fact that people have reported rear window actually cracking when defroster is on.

Good luck to you too!
Aaaahhhhh go fish yourself. Must be a great life you have when you “assume people are stupid by default”. I will agree with you on your view of their being a lot of stupid people on the internet though..... ;)
 
I know you probably failed physics in school, but I will explain.

When same piece of material is exposed to different conditions (in this case temperature) it will warp or change shape.

When using defroster it happens and glass is warped, everything is distorted when you are looking through it. I might try to take a picture next time.


Ahhhh, as an engineer who worked on quantum physics so you have a flash drive to work with your sentry mode, i find it hard to believe visible warping causes by the defroster. Something is definitely wrong.

It’s possible though as temperature gradient is higher due to the glass being laminated glass instead of single one. But visible warping caused by that is unlikely since you need quite a “curve” to form to make it visible. Maybe you got some air gaps trapped between the layers and they expand/contract.

It doesn’t seem like you are looking for help here. Only help we can provide is “ go to the service Center and get it fixed under warranty.”

good luck
 
The SC network was originally intended for road tips not local charging (fact). It is beyond rude when people that are not traveling extreme distances between an SC sit and charge past 80%.
To put it politely, this is sanctimonious bullsugar.

It matters not one bit what the first 20 supercharger stations were “originally intended” for. Tesla actively sells and markets cars to people in dense urban areas without access to garages, assigned parking, or reasonable availability of overnight L2 charging. To suggest that anyone using a feature they paid for (either directly or indirectly) in precisely the manner Tesla markets and encourages is “beyond rude” because it inconveniences your unfettered access for the one use case YOU need is self-righteous and pompous.
 
Does anyone know how long it takes for their business department to answer back it’s been over a month.
What is a business department? Why do you keep calling Tesla "dealer"? Why does your video have stock rattling sounds added on and they don't even coincide with the rolling of the car? It sounds like you added sound from a broken diesel engine into your Model X video. You've been here for 13 days and you're talking about Lemon law. 3 days ago you said you're in the "dealer" for the 5th time, and now you're saying it's been a month since the "business department" has responded? The Model X shown in your avatar has been lowered. I think you're a fake account, please stop trolling.
 
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