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So I installed the Hansshow trunk foot sensor the other day

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Took about 1.5 hours from start to finish. The longest and most pain-in-the-butt part for me was fishing the wire from the hatch down, thru the grommet, down the side, and into the trunk bottom. The two plastic trim pieces on the hatch simply pop off. For the upper one (by the rear window), these two popped out of the trim and stayed behind. I didn't realize until I started cussing out loud why the fvck it won't go back on.
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The rest was pretty simple to snap off. There is a video on youtube to walk you thru the steps.
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When I was all done I found on my table they had included this little fish wire. It would have made fishing thru the grommet much easier.
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Operation-wise its great for an $80 addon. Opening and closing with my foot is such a wonderful solution to a first-world problem.
 
Thanks for the write up and pics!!

Does the foot sensor work with the proximity function? With the fob in my pocket, I walk up and the car will unlock once I grab a door handle or press the hatch release button. Does the foot sensor work like that? IOW, I don’t need to unlock the car with the FOB/app/phone key first?
 
Thanks for the write up and pics!!

Does the foot sensor work with the proximity function? With the fob in my pocket, I walk up and the car will unlock once I grab a door handle or press the hatch release button. Does the foot sensor work like that? IOW, I don’t need to unlock the car with the FOB/app/phone key first?

Works the same, it just fakes a button-press signal to the car. However, if the car is in deep sleep, the foot sensor won't work. The control box will not be powered. I asked them about it and Hansshow said it is normal.
 
Works the same, it just fakes a button-press signal to the car. However, if the car is in deep sleep, the foot sensor won't work. The control box will not be powered. I asked them about it and Hansshow said it is normal.

Understood. Thanks for the info.

I’m getting ready to buy the Tesla Offer powered frunk. The only special tool you need is a precision pick (or similar) to get the struts off the lower mounts. It doesn’t look hard at all, just a bit time consuming.
 
I have the factory tow hitch. Has anyone installed this with the tow hitch? Is there enough room for the sensor underneath it? This seems like a no-brainer for $80 but I would like to know that it will fit. How about a picture of the sensor mount point?
 
I have the factory tow hitch. Has anyone installed this with the tow hitch? Is there enough room for the sensor underneath it? This seems like a no-brainer for $80 but I would like to know that it will fit. How about a picture of the sensor mount point?

i had mine installed towards the right side of the hitch so you don't accidentally trigger the foot sensor when standing to get something out of the trunk and get smashed on the head

also nice so after i pickup groceries from the garage i do a quick foot sweep towards the passenger side underneath and the trunk closes as i'm walking inside the house
 
I have the factory tow hitch. Has anyone installed this with the tow hitch? Is there enough room for the sensor underneath it? This seems like a no-brainer for $80 but I would like to know that it will fit. How about a picture of the sensor mount point?
I wonder if there is an easy way to disable automatically the foot sensor went you have the Trailer mode on,
so the trunk will not pop up suddenly when you are dealing with the tow hitch, chain, or wires?

Also, can the foot sensor sensor and the liftgate remote be disabled when you have a bike carrier with some bicycles on it?
 
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Took about 1.5 hours from start to finish. The longest and most pain-in-the-butt part for me was fishing the wire from the hatch down, thru the grommet, down the side, and into the trunk bottom. The two plastic trim pieces on the hatch simply pop off. For the upper one (by the rear window), these two popped out of the trim and stayed behind. I didn't realize until I started cussing out loud why the fvck it won't go back on.
View attachment 594570

The rest was pretty simple to snap off. There is a video on youtube to walk you thru the steps.
View attachment 594572 View attachment 594574

When I was all done I found on my table they had included this little fish wire. It would have made fishing thru the grommet much easier.
View attachment 594571

Operation-wise its great for an $80 addon. Opening and closing with my foot is such a wonderful solution to a first-world problem.

Do you have a picture of the actual sensor installed? Also, do you recommend DIY or have someone else do it?

How is it working so far?
 
Do you have a picture of the actual sensor installed? Also, do you recommend DIY or have someone else do it?

How is it working so far?

sorry no picture but i double side taped the sensor itself to the bottom plastic right behind the hitch cover.

operation wise its been great. no accidental triggers. great when your hands are full approaching or leaving the car. one thing i didn't know was that if the car is in deep sleep, the hatch button doesn't work until it wakes up. in that case, the kick sensor also doesn't work since it is just faking a button press signal.

If you can, DIY-ing this for about $80 total is pretty sweet. definitely recommended.
 
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I did the install on Saturday. I have the tow hitch and it is no trouble putting the sensor below it. My installation took a lot longer than 1.5 hours (embarrassed to say how long) but I also have zero experience taking trim off of cars. I had no idea how the push-button plugs worked and it wasn't until I partially broke the first one that I tried to remove that I figured it out. There are two of these on the second piece of trim that you remove. Knowing those locations (at the end of the trim halfway up the windows) and how to pop out the plug (pop the center up 1/4" or so and it slides out) would have saved me some time and a few curse words.

Fishing through the rubber grommet was non-trivial even when using the little tool mentioned in the first post. There is not a lot of room for the new wire. I'm not sure how I managed to do it. That took a lot of time.

Fishing from the grommet to the bottom of the car was easier but it took me a lot of time to get the slip line to go around the bend and down the side channel. Pulling the wire through was not difficult after getting the slip line in place.

Everything worked first try once installed. I paid $89 for my kit from RPMTesla. Now that it is installed and working I think it is likely going to be the best $89 that I spend on the car. Putting the car back together was many times easier for me that it was to take it apart.

I've only had it installed for two days but that's long enough for me to recommend it. Just know that installation (depending on your skill level) may be challenging.

I'm not including any pictures because there is nothing to see. The sensor is low profile enough that it disappears below the tow hitch and the wires are all completely hidden from view.
 
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I have the kick sensor on my model 3, and am having issues with it opening during the car wash. Let me know if you know a way to prevent it from being triggered. I have it locked, but maybe I'm too close and its triggering it.
 
As far as tools I used a v-shaped trim tool (like one of the ones pictured here https://www.amazon.com/XBRN-Removal-Window-Fastener-Remover/dp/B07R44VJHN) to pull the push-pin plugs. A flathead screwdriver would likely work just as well. I also used some sockets, I think 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm to remove the bottom tray. And then there is electrical tape for the slip line as well as a couple pieces to hold the wire out of the way in the tow compartment. You might also need some pliers to help pull things.

The slip line and the funny wire for fishing through the rubber grommet came with the kit.

Note that the instructions that come with the kit are not great (and I'm being kind). RPMTesla has an installation video that they grant access to if you buy from them. There are likely others on YouTube that show the install.
 
Installed this yesterday. It took 3.5hrs+ for me. Most of the time was spent routing the wire from the rubber grommet down to the sub trunk area. I couldn't route it via the metal part so I pulled the headliner down and routed it underneath. Watching the videos definitely helped. Though I would say that those videos make it seem like the plastic covers come off very easily where in reality it takes a lot of effort and you will be worried about breaking something. Some sellers provide installation for $110 and I would happily pay that if it was available near me.

I broke the Liftgate cinch latch cover while taking the cover off. Does anyone know how to order a part from Tesla? The part number is 1584544-D0-A (I think).