Tesla Dies in IKEA Parking Lot

[mbdionio]

i really love those rims !!!

 

[OCR1]

I would not recommend going to IKEA on the weekend.

But I do hope you get your car returned to service quickly. Keep us updated on what the problem is once they figure it out.

 

[ItsNotAboutTheMoney]

12V failure can look a lot like MCU failure. But with a 2 year old car you are due for the 12V battery to fail.

We had all sorts of issues with the windows acting strange and error messages on the screen, but also mostly a black screen. The MCU doesn't seem to run well with low voltage. We managed to actually drive it to the Service Center. Once started, if possible, it should keep going on the DC/DC converter until you turn it off again. The SC fixed it in about an hour (new 12V battery) and all was well.

2 years?!

My 2010 Prius 12V died after 10 years.
My 2013 Volt 12V is still going after 7 years.

I know I'm in a colder state, and that 12V batteries tend to last less time in warmer states, but 2 years? Surely that's just Tesla sucking at 12V.

 

[premland]

Sick looking car.. but blackout those chrome mirrors to match the rest. Love the wheels

did the job myself and just haven't gotten to those damn mirrors !!

 

[KenC]

2 years?!

My 2010 Prius 12V died after 10 years.
My 2013 Volt 12V is still going after 7 years.

I know I'm in a colder state, and that 12V batteries tend to last less time in warmer states, but 2 years? Surely that's just Tesla sucking at 12V.

Funny, cause at the Volt forum that I used to visit, premature 12volt battery failure was very common before 3years. There were far more reports there of battery failure than here. Subjective, small sample of course.

 

[sduck]

2 years?!

My 2010 Prius 12V died after 10 years.
My 2013 Volt 12V is still going after 7 years.

I know I'm in a colder state, and that 12V batteries tend to last less time in warmer states, but 2 years? Surely that's just Tesla sucking at 12V.

I'm not sure how you got to 9K posts without seeing any of the threads about tesla's 12v battery problems. Yes, they suck at the 12v game. Or possibly they just picked a lousy supplier of OEM parts, or got a bad batch or something. Mine went out after about a year, and there were tons of reports of similar situations at the time.

FWIW the Prius and Volt are 2 of the best 12v battery cars - quite a lot of other modern cars don't do nearly as well as those two. In my volt I changed the battery when it was 5 years old just to be on the safe side, not because I had any problems. My mom's 2006 Prius, which I inherited when she passed away in 2016, still had the original 12v battery, which worked perfectly, unlike the traction battery which needed replacing.

 

[vickh]

Another data point my 12 V was replaced @ 12 months (while I was @SC tech said he smelt suphur) No symptoms. C'mon Tesla you need better 12V ( AGM) or better warnings..


If it's not the 12V and just display, I wonder if the app can still be used to put the car in drive (to SC ofcourse) I had a blank dark screen but was able to put the car in drive (nerve wracking and I wish 3/Y had a backup display for basic drive functions)

 

[SMAlset]

Are the 12V batteries more likely to go out in Teslas because of our larger battery range compared to most other EVs and/or from the demand from all the electronics that Teslas rely on? I have a 9/2018 Model 3 and been reading people reporting their 2018s are experiencing this. Our 3/2017 MS hasn’t needed a replacement yet however.

@premland, what did Service say the issue was on yours or are you still waiting to hear?

 

[TexanEV]

Would it be reasonable to preemptively exchange the 12V every 2 years?

 

[Gasaraki]

Moderators moved you to "Model 3" parent category. I'd have said ordering/production subcategory.

Your battery isn't dead, just the computer, easy to see how that could be mistaken since it had the power shut off.

Surely it shut off as a protective measure as without the computer there is no way to control many of the car's functions. Not sure what other computers there are besides the MCU but that is beside the point.

The MCU dying does not cause the car to not function. This is a 12V issue. You can reboot your MCU while you are driving. The MCU computer and the driving computer are separated.

 

[Mojito]

Had that happened to me last night sat in the car all the sudden car goes black. A few seconds later the fog lights and reverse light come one but nothing else I also noticed I could not open driver sid door tried a reboot screen comes on dim barley allegeable. I Called tesla they tried to connect to the car no help. Tow truck came by He did a master reboot by disconnecting the battery and the battery pack main connector that sits under rear seat cushion and it started up. still had it towed to service station and there diagnosing it now it may be the 12 volt battery.

 

[Stanwood Steve]

This is the reason I recently replaced the OEM battery with one from Ohmmu. Yes, my car is still under warranty (for another five thousand miles), but I hate being stuck somewhere and having to deal with a tow to the Service Center. Besides, I needed the OEM battery for use with an oxalic acid vaporizer for my honeybee hives! It has a very nice handle on the top.

 

[smalls]

What battery do you guys recommend besides the Ohmmu? I'd rather not use lithium while under warranty.

 

[KenC]

Wonder if it's a bad batch of batteries, or the way Tesla uses the 12V. If people would put up their car manufacturing date, would help a little, though obviously when a car is made and when a battery are made, are different, we'll at least know the battery had to have been made earlier.

 

[LiteEv]

Why anyone would go to an IKEA over the weekend during a global pandemic is a different terrible story.

With this story our Dec 2018 Model 3 Dual Motor will not go into drive, reverse, anything. Contact service and try and hard reset the car. Doesn't work. Get some error messages about the 12V battery and the car loses all power.

Service sends a tow truck who has to use a battery to hot wire the frunk open, hot wire the 12V, still won't go into drive and tows the car to a service station - luckily close by in Berkeley.

Tech is saying it's an MCU issue. I'm scratching my head on how a 2 year old car with less than 20K miles has become a 2 ton paperweight.

Do MCU issues really make the entire car un-driveable?

Any things I should watch out for in the repair and explanation of the fix?

If i've had this issue once should I expect to see something similar again?

Especially bummed as I just put some ridiculous wheels on the car.

View attachment 607333

many thanks,

 

[LiteEv]

Our brand-new Tesla 3 2020 (4 months) had died in the driveway a couple of days ago after the latest software upgrade. It was not a 12 V battery failure. The service center is still looking for the problem. In my opinion, it may be a serious system bug in the last upgrade.
Let's discuss.

 

[smartypnz]

have a 9/2018 Model 3 and been reading people reporting their 2018s are experiencing this. Our 3/2017 MS hasn’t needed a replacement yet however.

Hopefully, and from not hearing failures - our 2017's had a different batch of 12v'ers. But, even so, getting close to time when they should probably be preemptively replaced anyway.

My ICE cars 'rule of thumb' when I lived in cold areas that included white stuff was: 4 years and before the next winter.

Is there a youtube of the replacement?