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Tesla Model S DSP settings

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I have a 2017 Tesla model S (manu. 3/2017) which came with standard audio. It has hw3 upgrade.
I had the nvx boost, and door speaker upgrades but was still unhappy with the audio (that’s for sale if anyone wants it) So, I upgraded to the following.

Front dash speakers: infinity kappa 303s
Front tweeters: infinity kappa 603cf tweeter
Front door drivers: infinity kappa 603cf 6.5 driver
Rear drivers: infinity kappa 62ix 6.5” 2 way coaxial
Amplifier/dsp: Audiocontrol d-5.1300
Subwoofer: alpine type R 12” in vented box

I also mounted an iPad under the the MCU and I’m running TB3 with in-line DAC to RCA directly to the amp. I play lossless hi res or lossless tracks to the system this way and it think it sounds amazing with the dsp eq set to flat.
On the ipad, the eq is off, Dolby atmos is off, sound check is off.

Question 1:
For those of you out there with DSPs, do you set the signal delay/timing correction for each speaker or speaker group? If so, what settings are you using?

Question 2:
I got a dsp because I thought I could use the sound coming from the mcu, and counteract all of the things we don’t like. (Ie. Bass drop off etc). Has anyone gotten their sound signal coming from the mcu to sound good using the dsp? If so, can you show your dsp eq settings?
The DSP should sum the signals from its input and apply delay/signal correction to each individual output channel. Not sure what you mean by speaker group. Ideally each channel might have a slightly different correction, though that's a lot more work to tune. A DSP isn't magic though - it can't bring back frequencies that it can't see. This is why a "clean" unadjusted source like an external player sounds so much better than a signal that has already been "corrected" by the MCU. DSP settings are going to vary between manufacturer, EQ type, speaker type, amplifier power, sound damping, personal preference, etc.
I’m following. I have the front driver, tweeter, and mid range connected on a passive crossover. Infinity speakers include a 3-way crossover that seemingly handles watts appropriately as well. I’m sending somewhere between 120 to 200 watts to each 3 way speaker group in the front passenger doors.

I might be misinformed about this but, I was thinking people were using the dsp to tune the time delay so the sound coming from the passenger side driver, and the driver side driver meet the human sitting in the driver seat at the same time. Since I’m running the iPad, with no eq, I assume the audio signal is pure. If we have the same speaker locations in the model s, and my understanding of signal delay is correct, I would assume assume, the signal delay settings should be about the same for us all. So, I was asking about the settings because I’m not sure how to set those correctly.

The other question about the mcu.
I feel like this is a pretty good dsp. However, no matter what I do, if the signal comes from the mcu, I feel like it sounds like trash. I was wondering if anyone ever figured out how to use it and get good sound.

Another question I have for whoever is reading.
I’m not a fan of the inline digital audio converter. I mean, it does it’s job converting usb to rca, and it is hi res, but I’d rather have something like a stand alone powered audio interface…. Like a focusrite for a car almost. Anyone else find a product like this?
I’ll also add, if I am not running audio from iPad and I’m running it from the mcu, I am only tapped into the factory front left and front right audio signals. The dsp is summing them, and then outputting them to four channels.
I'm new to this DSP stuff, but have read a lot. Take my thoughts with a grain of salt.

Its going to sound like trash if it is only getting signal from one set of speakers. I'm betting the dash and door speakers are actively crossed over at the MCU, so you aren't getting all of the audio information. The dash signal won't have the bass in it, and the doors may be missing the highs. Plus, any signals going to those speakers for sure are EQ'd to make the factory speakers sound good. Putting better speakers with flatter frequency responses in is likely to sound less than ideal until you fix those factory EQ'd signals. That's what your DSP is for. You said it is summing just a single left and right signal? There is nothing to sum, unless you are summing the left with the right, which is incorrect. You want to sum the left dash and woofer, then sum the right dash and woofer. Then correct the signal in your DSP using some sort of an RTA and preferably a calibrated microphone.

That looks like one heck of a DSP you are running, but you are not using it to its full potential. I like the idea of getting a better, uncompressed, signal from the iPad, but I don't want to lose my steering wheel controls and stuff. I've got an 8 channel DSP that I will install soon. I'll take the dash and front door woofer signals and output them to the dash, tweeters, front door, and sub all with active crossovers from the DSP. The rear doors and the center dash I'll leave on the factory amp. I'll measure from each speaker to my head position to set the time alignment, then will EQ each speaker individually with an inexpensive calibrated mic and free RTA software running on a laptop.