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HepaKing Alpine PXE-X121-12EV DSP Review

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TwoK4drSi

IG: TwoK4drSi
Apr 3, 2019
1,969
2,388
DFW
So I saw Alpine debut this late last year at electrify expo but it has been crickets here in the US for release date. Luckily HepaKing has this readily available and in stock. I follow them on YT and saw they started showing it off a few weeks ago so I bit the bullet.

This is a 100% plug and play DSP that works and plays nice with the tesla system / screen. If you’re really into sound quality and clarity even moreso at high volume then I suggest grabbing this if you have aftermarket speakers.

The DSP harness will grab signal from the MCU and rear amp BEFORE they enter the speakers and tune it. The output will go back into the oem speaker harness that “was” plugged in. No splicing / tapping required. Everything is plug and play. Power source from penthouse lug.

What is great about this is HK has already done the tuning for the speakers they sell focused on the driver and they preload each dsp with those files. So all you really need to do is micro adjust certain speakers gain based on your listening preference through the laptop.

In terms of the sound quality I would say the Alpine DSP really wakes up the DP speaker set like a double shot of espresso. Feed the dsp high res music and it’s like a case of monster energy drinks.

Installation was mainly time consuming due to wire tucking. The dsp fits on the higher part of the rear shelf but I suggest making a board so you can properly mount it. It cannot be rotated straight due to the rear harness connection being slightly short. This is fine bc there are outputs on the top and bottom and if you need the top outputs it would be shoved against the carpet. The dsp can be pushed closer to the subwoofer but some of us are running amps for additional subs from NVX.

I would watch their videos entirely and follow it to the T. I made the mistake of powering down the car and disconnecting the penthouse BUT did not disconnect the 12V so I had to jump the car after all was done. Open all doors, roll all windows down, and pop the frunk just in case.

There is a USB port on the dsp so you can feed hi res songs from tidal directly into the dsp. What is nice is that you can play from phone source and screen source at the same time. The dsp will input both and no need for source selecting. I got the controller bc I will be doing different presets for different sources.

I’m in DFW so if anyone wants to have a listen just DM me.

Link to the instruction manual below for a more technical review of the hardware.

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Great write up! I went stupid spending money on this car while it was down and I planned on slowing down but I might have to make this happen.

I have an extra NVX 1k sub I’ll make you a good deal on if you decide you want to upgrade like @C-Bus Y suggested.
 
Would be great to see some final pics. Upgrade to the 1K sub amp and it will be an amazing system. Well done.
The picture of dsp at the rear is basically the same minus the birds nest of wires going towards the front on the rear seat. Will be doing some more cable management this week but to answer your question about upgrading to the 1k watt amp there is no need anymore on my end. The alpine sub was turned down power feed wise to 40%. In the HK DSP tuning video he states this will need to be turned down bc it is a lot of bass already and it moves a lot of air now.

I didn’t believe it but I put all the settings per his recommendations at 0 across the board and it was still too much so my initial drive and test of the car.

Straight out of the box the subwoofer is like this in the EQ. Had to plug in the laptop immediately to change. I will probably be cutting a hole in the plastic to let that sub breathe in that enclosed space just like this thread


If I understand the math correctly the oem rear amp per channel is 80 watt for the sub is you are adding an additional 200 per channel so total is 560 watts for that sub.
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Would be great to see some final pics. Upgrade to the 1K sub amp and it will be an amazing system. Well done.
So I purchased this DSP and have it at the house. I see that it has two 30 amp fuses; the 1K NVX amp has three 30 amp fuses. I'm wondering if I need to start looking into a secondary 15V battery. This post below is making me wonder if the possibility of pulling 150 amps (I realize this would only happen at full tilt) might cause issues.
The DC-to-DC converter that powers the penthouse connector under the back seat can provide 200 amps of power. If you get toward the high end of that, you might cause problems with other power load devices like AC that run off the 12V, but otherwise it's not likely to cause problems.

The only problems I've heard reported are the in-rush current errors at power up, where the DC-to-DC current sees a big spike charging the amp capacitors, and thus thinks there is a short and throws the software breaker for the DC-to-DC, and shows errors on the main panel. That's what the relay solves, it delays/slow the amp powering up so there is no big spike.

Also have looked at this in depth for a few months now- if you feel it's risky to draw huge current, it would not hurt to have some stiffening caps to handle the thumps and take some load off the DC-to-DC converter. Would make the system less demanding on the car, although it's most likely unnecessary.
 
just purchased the full alpine kit, install looks pretty straight forward

what settings can you change with the controller?

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Nice! The controller allows this:

Master volume and mute:
Main source slection
Aux source selection
Sub woofer level / gain
Access to presets. Currently 6 slots.

For me I needed all of the above. I run a different preset with passengers in the car and no passengers. The DP series speakers is in preset 6. Delete preset 1-5 and copy preset 6 over to 1. Then you adjust preset 1 and save over it with your micro tuning.

I basically have preset 1 for pop and preset 2 for more bass heavy music.
 
Nice! The controller allows this:

Master volume and mute:
Main source slection
Aux source selection
Sub woofer level / gain
Access to presets. Currently 6 slots.

For me I needed all of the above. I run a different preset with passengers in the car and no passengers. The DP series speakers is in preset 6. Delete preset 1-5 and copy preset 6 over to 1. Then you adjust preset 1 and save over it with your micro tuning.

I basically have preset 1 for pop and preset 2 for more bass heavy music.
Kool thank you, where did you mount the controller? Really no good spots i can think of other the on the wireless charger
 
Kool thank you, where did you mount the controller? Really no good spots i can think of other the on the wireless charger
I already have a control panel sorta thing for my air, voltage, and other bass knobs for the NVX.

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But if you’re looking for something more sleek and oem looking then maybe something like this?

 
I may have missed it @TwoK4drSi but what year is your Tesla? I see you reference 12v, so I'm assuming you don't have the 15.5v lithium ion LV battery, correct? I'm in DFW as well - and I DON'T want to hear your car because I will then become depressed and will want to figure out how to do this on my 23 MYP :p
 
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I may have missed it @TwoK4drSi but what year is your Tesla? I see you reference 12v, so I'm assuming you don't have the 15.5v lithium ion LV battery, correct? I'm in DFW as well - and I DON'T want to hear your car because I will then become depressed and will want to figure out how to do this on my 23 MYP :p
Mines a 22 AND you’re already poisoned by reading this thread. I’ll standby for your DM. Just send me the song you want me to demo.
 
Yes the 3rd picture. You have to make a board to secure it. Underneath the board I put Velcro with 3m tape to secure. Don’t drill into the car.
Mines a 22 AND you’re already poisoned by reading this thread. I’ll standby for your DM. Just send me the song you want me to demo.
Thanks for sharing, I wasn't sure if it was just a board which went somewhere else.

Is the cabling long enough to possible to where the OEM amp is if you recall?
 
Thanks for sharing, I wasn't sure if it was just a board which went somewhere else.

Is the cabling long enough to possible to where the OEM amp is if you recall?
also any chance you have video of the audio quality?

Im thinking of getting the amp and wiring harness, I have focal insides, Sounds great but could use some help from a DSP
 
Thanks for sharing, I wasn't sure if it was just a board which went somewhere else.

Is the cabling long enough to possible to where the OEM amp is if you recall?
Front is plenty. I believe about 12-14” extra. Rear is a little tight if you mount the dsp dead center like I did. You would need to rotate it like I did to give it a little more slack so the wires make an “L” instead of a Z to the rear amp location. The location I have shown is max. If you put it closer to passenger side or down in the sub trunk you’ll be fine.
 
I have just ordered the stereo upgrade from Hepaking. It has been shipped so I should have it in a week. I will make a detailed install and review of it

Alpine upgrade

I am also adding a new subwoofer amp and have replaced the NVX subwoofer with an Alpine

To prepare, I’ve been adding a lot of sound dampening sticker sheets everywhere I’ve removed the lining. To try to make my 2018 a lot quieter. This is seem to work a lot better than the aftermarket stuff. I tried in the past. It’s just a big pain to take all the liners out.
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