I disagree that this is an easy fix. Trying to find a leak is very difficult to do, that's why most mechanics dont want to touch it.
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Tesla model s rear suspension leak
- Thread starter mmmnnn
- Start date
No going to convince you. Your issue is a bad compressor, simple as that. Not a cheap fix, but an easy one. If one specific corner was slammed, then you’d need to figure out if the leak was at the connections, the air line itself, or the strut. Time consuming, but again, not hard. Did you even talk to independent shops? What I will agree with is the mystique that Teslas can only be worked on by them, which is mostly true with anything software, HV battery, etc. related. That may be the default answer from independents because they don’t want the hassle. Just like tires and the 12V battery. Anyone can replace them, but folks still opt to go with Tesla. I did for the 12V because it was cheap to have a Ranger come out vs me buying the battery myself.
Air suspension is not a new area. Like I said, plenty of other makers came before Tesla…
I'm interested to see how your problem was fixed. I am currently having a suspension problem. Both rear struts are bottomed out. Front is holding okay. There is no pressure in the tank. Seems to be a leak somewhere? Unlikely that both struts went out at the same time. Compressor still runs but might need to be replaced if it overheated. Wondering if there needs to be a software reset to initiate the solenoid valve sending air to the rear struts again? I am capable of finding leaks over replacing struts. I just don't want to do all the work and find out there still needs to be a software reset in toolbox or something like that. Anyone have any more information on what it takes to get air suspension problems fixed?
Toolbox not absolutely needed. Handy to clear codes and do a suspension calibration, but not needed to get the system working. Which color line melted? If it’s the black one, that’s the line to the reservoir tank so explains why it’s empty. So fix that first and see if the compressor still works and the rear is lifted to normal height. You can check for leaks at the solenoid block while you have the frunk out. Just spray soapy water after you fix the melted air line.
AnselmDante
Porn Stunt Double
I took my wheel in to an independent garage to have a tire patched after running over a screw. I told them I didn't bring the whole car because I didn't know if they worked on Tesla vehicles, The mechanic said "Oh yeah we work on Tesla's all the time....except for the brakes, because of that regenerative braking system."
Suffice to say I will not be bringing my Tesla to that garage.
Suffice to say I will not be bringing my Tesla to that garage.
Is it possible that they meant: We never get requests for brake work on Teslas because the brakes last so long? (b/c of the regen) That seems like a possible reasonable answer.
AnselmDante
Porn Stunt Double
No, they didn't, and here is why I know: I left the wheel with them, thinking a shop with "Tire" in their name could at least competently remove a screw and repair a tire.
1. They used clamp weights on my rim, even though it is aluminum and they removed the tape weights.
2. They scored the inside of my rim, leaving raised metal burrs because they lacked the proper equipment for an aluminum rim during balancing.
3. They left circular scratches in the lug holes from using metal impact sockets at an angle. This is a brand new painted rim, not some factory shell.
4. The wheel came to them with a new black valve cover, but was returned with a light grey valve cover that had grease in the grooves from rolling around on their floor.
They have an email on their website for correspondence and appointment scheduling. I left an email about these issues. After a week of not hearing back about my concerns, I had my wife leave a different email to see if they were just ignoring me. Hers was for scheduling maintenance. They didn't answer that one either. I finally called them and was told "Yeah, we don't use our website."
That place is too incompetent for me to believe they simply meant because of regenerative braking a Tesla just never needs brake work.
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Hi, I'm having a similar issue. Would appreciate your input. As you can see in the attached pictures, the rear left wheel is bottomed out and the front right is all the way up, the other two are normal. The icon in the dash is showing air suspension not available. This happened a couple weeks back and got better right after I got in the car. Not this time, it won't correct any wheel whatsoever. I checked the pressure in the air suspension tank and pressure is bit above 75psi. Took out the rear left wheel and looked at the level bracket which appears normal.
So in summary, all looks fine but the system does not want to make the car level. What part should I change/repair with the information I just mentionned. The car is drivable as the tire does not rub on the wheel liner but it is not the best feeling driving. If you need any other info, let me know as I need to get this fixed asap.
thanks in advance. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Same steps to go through. The reserve tank should have much more than 75psi, but at least it’s not empty. Check for leaks at the compressor as well as valve block by using soapy water. I don’t even see the valve block in your pic. Do you have an older ‘13? One corner being low points to a leak or bad height sensor. Could still be the compressor of course, but do the simple checks first. Check the 40A main fuse along with the smaller compressor fuse and relay.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm on it as we speak, I'll let you know how it develops. I found and read your other posts on the matter as well as the ones you refrered to. Very insightful and much appreciated. Thanks again.
Ok, so I just checked the relay, the 12v in the relay slots, the compressor and all is perfect : the compressor runs, the relay clics when tested and there is about 14v in the slots of the fuse box where relay k11 goes. My next project is to jump start the compressor with the jumper (gauge 10 wire) to spray soapy water on the system. To answer your question, our build is november 13 and at that point in time, the solenoid valve block is in the wheel well of the front right wheel.
Do you see an issue of having the system run with the jumper to test for leaks ? Thanks in advance for any other insight.
Ps, on picture 3 (the one with the red tester, your TMC w007 post is in front page
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Do you see an issue of having the system run with the jumper to test for leaks ? Thanks in advance for any other insight.
Ps, on picture 3 (the one with the red tester, your TMC w007 post is in front page
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No, def not normal. Usually the leaks are at the VOSS fitting or in the air lines themselves. With that many bubbles to the right of the purple fitting, it must be a crack in the plastic of the compressor itself which means replacement. Now that you know where the leak is, you could do the experiment again, but with less soapy water to see exactly where the crack may be in case you want to try and seal/slather Gorilla Glue or something just for grins.
interesting idea. I have more pictures with less bubbles and it's right on top of the "bulge". Besides Gorilla glue, what else could be a great plastic hole plugging product?
Also, assuming it is only there that there is a leak, what about the red icon in the dash? I tried the tire change, I took out the 12v and fireman's loop and no cigar on the red icon.
Also, assuming it is only there that there is a leak, what about the red icon in the dash? I tried the tire change, I took out the 12v and fireman's loop and no cigar on the red icon.
JB Weld, Epoxy, etc. Honestly was joking. Trying to seal it is prob a temporary fix because the pressure has to go somewhere and once a crack or weak point exists, it’ll create new ones. Can def try/experiment.
The red icon usually goes away on its own once the SAS computer sees no errors/issues. I didn’t need Toolbox etc to reset it. Right now the compressor is reporting loss of pressure so icon will remain red.
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