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Tparts data module

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For whatever it's worth, I found removing the panel covering the computer under the glovebox much more difficult than shifting the carpeted side panel near the console. The cable once connected is pretty easy to run in the gap between the clips on the console and I haven't noticed any new noises thanks to doing it.

Be wary of instructions from wherever, there seem to be several variations in the panel clips and how the panel is secured. In my case there were three plugs to remove which came out easy, but about 12 clips along the top of the panel that were extremely hard to remove. Get yourself a spudger set if you have a Q3 or later delivered vehicle and you want to try it.

The actual connecting itself is pretty easy and I found the included USB cable plenty long enough.
 
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For whatever it's worth, I found removing the panel covering the computer under the glovebox much more difficult than shifting the carpeted side panel near the console. The cable once connected is pretty easy to run in the gap between the clips on the console and I haven't noticed any new noises thanks to doing it.

Be wary of instructions from wherever, there seem to be several variations in the panel clips and how the panel is secured. In my case there were three plugs to remove which came out easy, but about 12 clips along the top of the panel that were extremely hard to remove. Get yourself a spudger set if you have a Q3 or later delivered vehicle and you want to try it.

The actual connecting itself is pretty easy and I found the included USB cable plenty long enough.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ve got a rear ambient light set that involves removing that panel to access the LED bulb in it (and run cable behind)

I started trying to fit it a few weeks ago but gave up after removing the 3 clips you mention and not being able to work out how to remove the panel from there.

Do you just wedge a spudger in at the top of the panel? (closest to the seat). Any tips gratefully received.
 
Do you just wedge a spudger in at the top of the panel? (closest to the seat). Any tips gratefully received.
It took a while to do, the longest part of the entire job to be honest. I opened the glovebox a couple times to get at the sides from the top also. You can start to gently wiggle the panel from the bottom to loose things up, then get the spudger in a gently start to lever it with the wiggling and then hopefully some parts of it will start to free up so you can get the spudger in further.

There's a rounded metal bit in the middle that you'll start to get a gap around which will then give you better access to push out the clips with the spudger. You'll probably find the right side starts to come loose first, patiently make your way along and don't be tempted to just yank everything off once you've got a few clips off.

There are two plastic stand-offs on the panel that sort of slot in to holes to align it. If you rush or try to force things there's a good chance you'll break off at least one - it's not the end of the world if you do as I think they're just there to help align the panel when slotting it in but just be aware.

Once the panel is loose you'll need to detach the connector for the footwell light, It has a tiny plastic bit on top of the connector that you can push down on and it'll just slide out - it will hang awkwardly otherwise and it's the shortest of the connected cables so best unplug it. I just left the other two bits connected and let the panel sit off to the side of the footwell as there was not too much strain on those cables, and there was plenty of room to start loosening off the console panel at that point.
 
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It'll probably be real easy after you've removed it maybe once or twice.

The panels are likely different as well, and how they are secured, especially US ones. For mine there were only three external plugs and no screws, but the tparts document suggested there'd be some number of screws, etc.

Edit: Just watched a video of a guy in the US doing it, and it looks like their panels secure at the top with plugs/screws and appeared to be a lot easier, looked like it just came loose once those were removed. The panel on my Model Y has the plugs securing at the bottom and clips holding it in at the top. It's also obviously installed on the opposite side.
 
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Maybe its the videos online that make it look easy, but they remove the peice under the dash in about 20-30 seconds?
All I've been able to find online is videos of Americans doing it, and by all accounts the equivalent of our passenger side is a LOT easier to take off than the other. The drivers side on ours is much easier to take off as well.

I don't think these panels are like-for-like between LHD and RHD cars either, I'm pretty sure they have different part codes, and some hardware will be in the same place on all cars so necessarily will require different mouldings & fixings.
 
It'll probably be real easy after you've removed it maybe once or twice.

The panels are likely different as well, and how they are secured, especially US ones. For mine there were only three external plugs and no screws, but the tparts document suggested there'd be some number of screws, etc.

Edit: Just watched a video of a guy in the US doing it, and it looks like their panels secure at the top with plugs/screws and appeared to be a lot easier, looked like it just came loose once those were removed. The panel on my Model Y has the plugs securing at the bottom and clips holding it in at the top. It's also obviously installed on the opposite side.
Thanks for the heads-up, Went to do mine today, I removed the clips and the panel was obviously still held on with something. Spent 10 mins trying to find out what then tried to watch a video and found nothing ! .

So to summarise, remove the plastic clips that you can see with a trim tool and use a plastic pry tool to try and remove the panel from the clips ( that are hidden ? )

Thanks :D

Mines a M3 2023 model
 
Wireless pad has got nothing to do with the USB hub, so I’d report it. Notwithstanding that I’m pretty sure the Tparts module looks the same as the Tesla one externally so they’d likely know whether it was OEM or not without taking it apart.
 
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Wireless pad has got nothing to do with the USB hub, so I’d report it. Notwithstanding that I’m pretty sure the Tparts module looks the same as the Tesla one externally so they’d likely know whether it was OEM or not without taking it apart.
Thanks i didnt get this issue was just curious however my job is incomplete. I have a 2023 MY in Australia and have 3 plugs under the glove box but cannot get that panel out. So I've done everything but until I figure out how to get that panel out
 
Still struggling with this lol
Any other words if advice ? Do u know roughly how many clips there are hidden towards the top (inside)?
Sorry mate, been ages since I did this. Best as I remember once the bottom is loose you start lifting it from there gently but firmly back and forth and some of the top bits will start to loosen up enough to get a spudger in. I think I started from one side (closer to the centre of the car) and then worked towards the other. You can maybe open up the glovebox and hold it up a little to get some angle. Regret not videoing it now.

Since putting the data thing in I've used it exactly once though, so I'd probably not bother with it now.
 
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Sorry mate, been ages since I did this. Best as I remember once the bottom is loose you start lifting it from there gently but firmly back and forth and some of the top bits will start to loosen up enough to get a spudger in. I think I started from one side (closer to the centre of the car) and then worked towards the other. You can maybe open up the glovebox and hold it up a little to get some angle. Regret not videoing it now.

Since putting the data thing in I've used it exactly once though, so I'd probably not bother with it now.
Thanks so much
Also the latest update now allows ps5 controller via Bluetooth
 
You don't say what car you have. The latest Model 3 manual says:
Model 3 has four USB ports. The three USB-C ports output up to approximately 42W or two ports up to approximately 65W.
Whereas the Pre-Highland Model 3 manual says:
The USB ports can output power up to approximately 15W (which may vary depending on vehicle manufacture date).
Ditto for Model Y
The USB ports can output power up to approximately 15W (which may vary depending on vehicle manufacture date).