So...I'm on driver's handle #3 or #4 at 106k miles. Last one was replaced at 96k miles (in April), so even though I'm technically out of warranty my plan B is to take it back to Tesla Service and hope their response isn't "failure after 5 months is expected, so sorry".
The issue is that the handle presents normally and can be pulled the last ~5% normally, and that last 5% lowers the driver's window but unfortunately does NOT unlatch the door. This started as intermittent a few weeks ago but is now permanent.
Being a competent car guy, Plan A was to save everyone some time and hassle and fix the problem myself. Easy peasy, its the microswitches, of course. Unfortunately, after pulling the handle out it is obvious--both visually and confirmed with continuity checks--that all three microswitches function properly.
Any thoughts on what's next, including what I may have missed? Everything I can find talks about physics damage, of which I find no evidence. I see a location adjuster on the aft switch, but I'm fairly certain that one is what stops the handle at ~95% extension and it seems to work fine. The forward switch is the one that engages at full pull, and since the window comes down a bit like normal I kind of think all is functioning properly with that one too.
Does anyone know of door latch problems? I didn't have time to pull it out and inspect, but I guess there's a chance something there is wonky? I'm exclusively opening the door with the inside handle, which of course mechanically activates the latch via the cable.
Thanks for your time!
The issue is that the handle presents normally and can be pulled the last ~5% normally, and that last 5% lowers the driver's window but unfortunately does NOT unlatch the door. This started as intermittent a few weeks ago but is now permanent.
Being a competent car guy, Plan A was to save everyone some time and hassle and fix the problem myself. Easy peasy, its the microswitches, of course. Unfortunately, after pulling the handle out it is obvious--both visually and confirmed with continuity checks--that all three microswitches function properly.
Any thoughts on what's next, including what I may have missed? Everything I can find talks about physics damage, of which I find no evidence. I see a location adjuster on the aft switch, but I'm fairly certain that one is what stops the handle at ~95% extension and it seems to work fine. The forward switch is the one that engages at full pull, and since the window comes down a bit like normal I kind of think all is functioning properly with that one too.
Does anyone know of door latch problems? I didn't have time to pull it out and inspect, but I guess there's a chance something there is wonky? I'm exclusively opening the door with the inside handle, which of course mechanically activates the latch via the cable.
Thanks for your time!
