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UP vs HR Lowering Springs
- Thread starter mpegripper
- Start date
Hi,
I tend to notice similar threads of xxx vs xxx lowering springs quite often around here.
Here is our stance on that topic and I hope people can reference from here on out.
modelplusstudio.com
If you insist, we prefer H&R.
Danny
I tend to notice similar threads of xxx vs xxx lowering springs quite often around here.
Here is our stance on that topic and I hope people can reference from here on out.
Lowering Springs & Alternative Options
Here at MODEL+, we generally don't recommend using lowering springs on Model 3. From our experience and feedback from the community, lowering springs will make your car constantly ride on bump stops; creating a harsher ride and worse performance. This is due to the Model 3 factory shock being...
modelplusstudio.com
If you insist, we prefer H&R.
Danny
Yeah, we don't say this just to milk more money by selling you coilovers. On other applications, we'd recommend lowering springs all day long, but these cars not so much. Time and time again we see people around here doing lowering springs and become dissatisfied, then have to do it all over again with coilovers.
Danny
honestly, coilovers are way easier to install anyway, so i'm not too worried about the cost. they also provide a tangible benefit over stock. have you noticed that camber goes off a lot when lowering these cars 1.2-1.5 inches? i assume toe is fully adjustable too and can be accounted for on a mostly stock car with just the mild drop.
just have to convince myself that MCS with remote reservoir is NOT needed since that's what I've put on cars in the past (for track use of course).
just have to convince myself that MCS with remote reservoir is NOT needed since that's what I've put on cars in the past (for track use of course).
These cars actually do pretty well in the camber / toe department when lowering.
Toe will be adjustable back to factory spec without the need for aftermarket arms.
Camber is averaging around -1.5 degree for our car that is dropped about 2". Some BMWs for example, will come with more negative camber than this from factory.
Danny
You got the right idea.
In our use case, we actually take natural negative camber to our advantage
Danny
P-Lo801
Member
I rode in a buddy's P3 with H&R springs with three ppl for over a hundred miles, with relatively rough surfaces and the occasional dips and potholes throughout the trip. I can't speak to how they compare to UP springs, but having MPP comfort coilovers on mine, they rode surprisingly well the entire time, considering they were springs and not necessarily matched to the oem shocks.
Riding on bump stops is not a bad thing IF setup properly. Most cars use the bump stops as an active part of the suspension travel to increase spring rate. This is something that was pioneered by BMW back in the 90's as a way to use soft main springs, but still have a car that does not roll, squat or dive heavily upon inputs. Every BMW car since has used bump stops as additional springs to aid in the purpose of the main springs.
The issue comes with there is an underdamped (not dampened) situation with a shock from the factory (model 3) that then has lowering springs installed on it. This compresses the bump stop at static ride height increasing the spring rate heavily to a level that is not controllable by the factory damper.
The issue comes with there is an underdamped (not dampened) situation with a shock from the factory (model 3) that then has lowering springs installed on it. This compresses the bump stop at static ride height increasing the spring rate heavily to a level that is not controllable by the factory damper.
Maybe a bit of a necrobump here, but a good post. Here's a post from the BMW forums that compare different bump stops and their intended use.
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