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Your alignment is either not perfect or you have a tire issue.

I've probably driven more tracks that most have in mine and generally see a 30-35% reduction from 100% starting in 4 laps (1 warm up very easy, 2 hot, 1 cooldown). Obviously this varies based on the track and amount of throttle usage. Highest I have seen is at watkins glen. For those plugging...

What a blast! So glad to be able to get back to Laguna to drive it in the Tesla. Wasn't without issue, but overall a good weekend. I am processing in car video and will have them uploaded today to share.

This marketplace listing has expired and has been removed.

Considering it will take at least .5 hour of shop time I don't think 90 is too terrible. I charge 80 at my shop.

I switched to MPP arms as required by the Model 3 Challenge rules.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing Unplugged Performance front upper control arms Model 3. Please add to the discussion here.

Yes, stabilizes the side wall more for better response. Also likely heats up the tire a bit faster.

Camber varies by track, but generally a bit over 4 in the front and a bit under 3 in the rear. 255 40 18 as that is the spec width tire I can run.

Not my experience at all. I bought some in a pinch and found out they were dimensionally different than OEM

In their natural habitat. 18x10.5 +22

But they aren't OEM. Not that I have had great luck with OEM, but the chinese replicas are even worse.

Depending on the suspension setup yes. Autox is tricky as you can't get enough temp into the tires to really measure tire temps across the tread. I measure at every track weekend at least once if not more depending on setup changes I make and generally find the best distribution of temps to be...

I wouldn't touch anything Megan with a 10' pole. Junk. I am at -4.2 with the MPP arms. Run Model Y lower control arms and you get more camber as they are longer than the Model 3. You can definitely get more camber with the UP arms as I had almost 5 at one point. I have had some issues with...

Flow form wheels though only refer to the barrel construction not the spokes. They may start with a better quality casting allowing thinner spokes, but they are not as strong as true forged and machined wheel. There is a ton of variation in wheel construction and many of the wheels that are...

I would replace all of the factory units that you can. I have a mix of MPP and SPL bearings in my car and while I feel it more on the street they don't make any more noise. The immediacy of steering is much better and when loaded to 1.5g lateral the precision is much better. The one that I...

Would you be able to tell me the weight of your car? I am making plans to build my car into a wheel to wheel sprint race car and need to know if it is feasible based on the weight as the classing is set by power to weight.

I'm with you. Only ever have mine in comfort mode as anything else requires too much effort and takes away from feel on track.

Bad

I have UP upper control arms in the front and run at a decently low ride height. I own a performance shop in Ohio and build many race cars. I have an in house alignment system so switching alignment setups is pretty easy for me. My car.

You don't need pads at all. I lift mine all the time without them. Hell, my jack points are mostly scraped off my car from grinding them on curbs on the track and to the surprise of jack pad lovers my car hasn't totaled itself yet. I generally jack it from the rear motor first then go to the...

I am not aware of a list, but I have visited a lot of tracks with mine (more than most I would presume) and have only run into four so far that I cannot drive on. VIR Summit Point Putnam Park NJMP

That would have to be done by the hydraulic system as there is nothing in the factory caliper to do it.

When I was still daily driving mine I would switch back and forth between my street and track alignment settings. Track settings on the street will eat up my tires quick as I run between 4 and 4.5* of camber up front and 2 to 3 in the rear. For the street I run 1.5 all around.

Putnam park also has stopped allowing EV's and knowing the owner and his beliefs I wouldn't be surprised if this is a political statement more than one of safety.

I would assume this is just a recalibration of the angle sensor though and that it would not affect steering wheel position. Steering wheel centering is a physical link between the steering column shaft and the wheels through the steering rack. They are hard parts that need to be set correctly...

I find the MPP sport coilvoers to be very comfortable still. I have done many long tips in my car with them at a pretty low ride height and have no issues at all to report with ride comfort with the settings on full soft.

Just as the dually truck guys. This is common practice. OP needs a bigger hammer. I have used this hammer to remove stuck wheels before. Hasn't let me down. https://shop.snapon.com/product/Sledge-(Blue-Point)/Dead-Blow-11-lb-8-Ounce-Sledge-Hammer-(Blue-Point)/BC114B

Dampers are being worked hard there. An interesting bit of bounce under braking and at the rear applying throttle. Bump stop rebound maybe?

Looking at the UP 4 point I wouldn't want to use it. The harness bar is in the wrong place and the angle of the rear tubes are too steep. I don't understand this design at all. It also appears to rely on the sheer strength of bolts for the lower b pillar point which is is no way legal for...

Are they rubbing on the inside of the caliper as more heat is generated? Very interesting to see that and must mean that the hat sizing is off. By the look of them they are made by Stoptech so the quality should be good enough.

This is what I do.

I'm tempted to cut mine apart now. :)

I could go measure the weight of my factory bars. Would tell me if they are hollow, but won't tell me the wall thickness

If anyone is interested I am selling my unit. Works well, just didn't end up using it.

Was out at Gridlife Alpine Fest last weekend and took the win in Street Class. I got more aggressive with my alignment for this even and learned some things. 1. I don't like toe out in the rear. There are quite a few guides that say to give the car a bit of tow out in the rear and maybe with...

I was wondering the same thing. I haven't taken any measurements yet, but I feel bump steer a bit. I have also killed the boots on the factory units.

I used TE37's for my track setup.

What part of Ohio are you in? If you need some help with the car I own a performance shop in Cincinnati that does a lot of work on Teslas. I have the same coilovers on my personal Model 3 that I track regularly and know the cars very well. Let me know if I can help. I have deviated a bit on...

Car wash mode to center the steering wheel?? What's that about?

Lifting pucks are not at all necessary for jacking or lifting the car with a lift. I work on a lot of these cars at my performance shop and as long as the tech pays attention to the lifting points with a jack or with lift arms it is not a problem. Model 3 is easier to lift on a two post lift...

I would say that any shop that Anyone who is not a numbskull can easily lift the car on a standard two post lift. Not saying every tech at a tire store is competent.

Lifting a Tesla is no different than lifting any other car.

Drive harder? lol Mine definitely require at least that.

I love your rear arms. Definitely the easiest to adjust that I have used.

Gridlife Street class dictates I cannot run more than 255 tread width.

Alignments for track! I know this has been discussed, but wanted to revisit now that we have had quite a lot of time to get our cars out there. By the pyrometer I have settled on around -4F and -3R for camber with 0 toe front and about .1* in rear. I find this to be most neutral, but still...

I keep my steering in comfort on track as the lighter I can grip the wheel with my hands the more feedback I get through it.

Blueing should not be a thing at all and if they are getting that hot then something in the brake system is having an issue and could explain the vibration.

There are definitely G sensors on the car that will do some weird things if it thinks the car has been in an impact. I have bounced off curbs on track and had it do things like this.