What Percent is Your Tesla Charged to While at Home?

[AAKEE]

How does one take readings from the BMS directly?

With Scan My Tesla for example.

You need to add a small harness to the car, wich connects to a OBD dongle. Then you use the Scan My Tesla app ( in your mobile etc) to communicate and read data. My picture posted earlier is a SMT screen shot.

I also had a samsung tablet with live SMT and values from the BMS.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I note that Tessie seem to be able to calculate the capacity above the degradation threshold/ range

It’s unclear to me whether this is rounding error.

Based on prior descriptions of how Tessie works, I would be mildly surprised if it can detect energy above the threshold. This is based on my (possibly incorrect) understanding that Tessie looks at energy reported by the car which is added during a (sufficiently large) session, and determines the delta change in %, and then calculates from that the “usable” pack capacity (which is not the usable capacity actually as we know). That method would never show a value in excess of the degradation threshold - I think (hard to check without having a car above the threshold).

With Scan My Tesla for example.

When below the degradation threshold, for the capacity only, of course the in-car miles are equivalent. Lots of other SMT data which are useful though.

 

[timmylinfdr]

Always 90

 

[melvladimir]

M3LR '22, 22000km (13750 miles): ~40% -> 90%, and charging session about 16 hours (13->7A 230V)

 

[MDM323]

Approaching this from a different angle, I have a 2023 M3 LR delivered in December of 2022. Currently 4200 miles.
I’ve never charged to 100 percent or even above 90. I regularly keep it at 50 SOC.
Any reason I should charge to 100 for a commute even though my distance never requires it ? Curious what the consensus is if I don’t leave it sitting at 100 and if there are any positives to an occasional run to 100.

 

[AAKEE]

Approaching this from a different angle, I have a 2023 M3 LR delivered in December of 2022. Currently 4200 miles.
I’ve never charged to 100 percent or even above 90. I regularly keep it at 50 SOC.
Any reason I should charge to 100 for a commute even though my distance never requires it ? Curious what the consensus is if I don’t leave it sitting at 100 and if there are any positives to an occasional run to 100.

For the sake of the battery there is no gain to charge to 100%.
Lithium ion batteries do not suffer from any memory effect so they are happy with continously cycling at low SOC.

The researchers testing batteries periodically stop the test cycles and do full cycles to measure the capacity. This is done to be able to track the cyclic aging.
This is often done after each 100 or 200 or 250 cycles or so.
In general we do not see any research tests without the periodical full cycles, but we can be quite sure about that they will not add anything to the batteries life. (Not that bad either).

For the sake of the car, there might happen that the BMS looses track of the battery capacity and from that either overestimate or underestimate the battery capacity.
Its common on these forums that people are unhappy with the displayed range at 100%, or for example at 90% but converted to 100%.
To try to up the range its possible to “show” the battery capacity by having the car sleeping at low SOC and also at high SOC (called “BMS Calibration” on the forums)
This usually increases the displayed range if the BMS underestimates the capacity.

In general, using high SOC either often or periodical might help the BMS keep track of the capacity.

I havent used that technique, I use low SOC mostly but I have one longer trip back and forth each month to work and also about one/month to my mother in law. In these cases I have often charged to 100% to read the range (out of curiosity). Otherwise, about 80-90% has been needed.

I would not care very much if the displayed range got lower, I am quite sure about that the low SOC strategy is best for the battery anyway.

In your case just do as you do, if you get confused about the displayed range you can perform a BMS calib.
You do not need to be afraid for charging full if the need comes up.

 

[melvladimir]

M3LR '22, 22000km (13750 miles): ~40% -> 90%, and charging session about 16 hours (13->7A 230V)

Received an update today and now Tesla suggests for a daily using mode the charging up to "80%" instead of "90%". So I'll stick to it.
But now I'm not sure about the starting point. It's not a problem to change more often, but also I'm not sure that 50%->80% is better than 30%->80%, or even 20%->80% (in other words: more short charging cycles are better than fewer but wider ones).
Considering my experience with phones: 20-80% is nice.
Also changed my vote to 80%)

 

[AAKEE]

Received an update today and now Tesla suggests for a daily using mode the charging up to "80%" instead of "90%". So I'll stick to it.
But now I'm not sure about the starting point. It's not a problem to change more often, but also I'm not sure that 50%->80% is better than 30%->80%, or even 20%->80% (in other words: more short charging cycles are better than fewer but wider ones).
Considering my experience with phones: 20-80% is nice.
Also changed my vote to 80%)

My iphone app (newest version) still shows 90% only when selecting above 90% in the app.
Didnt see any change in car with 2023.20.9 either.

My guess is that there will not be any 80% suggestion. This because it will not cause lower degradstion than 90% will.
So ”up to 90%” or ”below 90%” is the mist expected Tesla advice.

80% at Supercharges has to do with the increased charging time above 80%, which can increase the waiting time in the que.


There is no doubt that low SOC is better if trying to keep the degradation low. The lower the better.
It will never matter what Tesla state in the app etc, the basics about degradation and calendar aging will not change if they alter the advice.
For now, and since very long time ago Teslas advice is easy to understand. Its about offering the maximum flexibility at a reasonable degradation.

We know that using up to 90% will keep the battery OK within the 8 years warranty even if living in hot climates that vause more wear.
Sience/research shows that the lowest degradation will happen if the SOC is kept as low as possible. For the regular Tesla owner this means:

1) -Do not charge more than needed until the next charge.
2) -Charge often. (Reduces the need in point above).
3) -Charge late. Keeping the car not charged until its time to use it, lowers the average SOC which is good for keeping the calendar aging low.

If you like to reduce degradation, that is.

If you don’t care, just do as you do and be happy. No probs, but not the lowest degradation either.

 

[melvladimir]

Didnt see any change in car with 2023.20.9 either.

Now I have 2023.26.1 (EU). I saw this recommendation in the Tesla Android App, also the newest. It was like a surprise.
I'll check tomorrow if there are any changes in the Charging tab.

 

[AAKEE]

Now I have 2023.26.1 (EU). I saw this recommendation in the Tesla Android App, also the newest. It was like a surprise.
I'll check tomorrow if there are any changes in the Charging tab.

In any case, I’d say that the cars manual overrides small tips in the app.
And that Teslas main advice probably will not change. Which means that we should not overinterpret tips in the app.

 

[melvladimir]

My iphone app (newest version) still shows 90% only when selecting above 90% in the app.
Didnt see any change in car with 2023.20.9 either.

Checked. Now the suggestion is 50-80%. So they just "stole" about 50 km between recommended charges.
Also, I hate how they calculate "Since Charge" and others: I spent about 7%*0.75 = 5.25kW, so it should be 5,25 kWh / 24 km = 219 Wh/km

 

[AAKEE]

Checked. Now the suggestion is 50-80%. So they just "stole" about 50 km between recommended charges.

Strange!

Also, I hate how they calculate "Since Charge" and others: I spent about 7%*0.75 = 5.25kW, so it should be 5,25 kWh / 24 km = 219 Wh/km
View attachment 958899

Your car is a EU M3?
So then we need to know the battery type, and the capacity.

Do you have the E5D/E5CD/E5LD etc in the registration papers?
What model year is the car?

For your charge it is 7% x the current capacity* x 0.955 (as the buffer is not in the perfebt number)

*Its probably 74.5 or 77.8 kWh total capacity when new, and depending on the cars age you probably have lost 5% or so perfect capacity.

So that counts to about 0.07 x (75x0.95) x 0.955 = about 4.75 kWh really charged.
Tesla’s ”+xx kWh” on screen exaggerates the charged energy by 1/0.955 = about 4.7% as they include the buffer that was not charged.


The used energy on screen is 24 km x 169 Wh/km = 4.056 kWh. Only the energy when in Drive is counted so there is a overhead for other consumtion, specially if the 24 km was several shorter drives.

 

[melvladimir]

Your car is a EU M3?

EU M3 Long Range Dual Motor, 03/2022 (with AMD Ryzen). Manufactured in Shanghai.

Do you have the E5D/E5CD/E5LD etc in the registration papers?

I bought it used and nothing came with it (even summer tires and 19" rims were sold separately).
The battery should be 82kWh full capacity and at least 75kWh available (that's why I multiplied 7% by 75). It showed 551km on 100% when I took it.

The used energy on screen is 24 km x 169 Wh/km = 4.056 kWh. Only the energy when in Drive is counted so there is a overhead for other consumtion, specially if the 24 km was several shorter drives.

Yeah, I know, and this annoys me. I guess I have to get used to it, that their digits are for long travels, but for everyday short city travel - check your electricity meter and don't bother others)

 

[melvladimir]

Is there any way to watch current "live" consumption?

 

[AAKEE]

EU M3 Long Range Dual Motor, 03/2022 (with AMD Ryzen). Manufactured in Shanghai.

I bought it used and nothing came with it (even summer tires and 19" rims were sold separately).
The battery should be 82kWh full capacity and at least 75kWh available (that's why I multiplied 7% by 75). It showed 551km on 100% when I took it.

No LR’s made in Shanghai had the 82kWh battery.
Initially all LR had the smaller LG of 74.5 kWh and later, somewhere around your cars date it changed to the 78.8kWh LG.
In EU the battery type can be seen under the ”variant”, like a four digit code: for example E5LD.
Well, perhaps you can see it when you guys join the EU.

You could perform a capacity calculation from the energy screen.

Average x calculated range x 100 / SOC (%) = Watthours.
Preferably done at higher SOC, for less rounding error.

Yeah, I know, and this annoys me. I guess I have to get used to it, that their digits are for long travels, but for everyday short city travel - check your electricity meter and don't bother others)

Yes, it might take time to adopt to how these things work.
I have a separate electrical meter at the Wall connector/charger. Did learn that in average about 10% more was used than the cars ”consumed kWh.

 

[AAKEE]

Is there any way to watch current "live" consumption?

Yes, in the energy app.
Use the green icon

 

[melvladimir]

No LR’s made in Shanghai had the 82kWh battery.

Strange, I watch a lot of videos (and read info) that starting from 2021 LR AWD received an 82kWh battery. Also watched several tests, and they got 78kWh 100->0%, and that was the reason why I choose M3 instead of Polestar 2 Performance.
Maybe I'll do some testing later, But I know that will be able to travel 550km on one full charge and this is what I wanted.

I have a separate electrical meter at the Wall connector/charger. Did learn that in average about 10% more was used than the cars ”consumed kWh.

I also have a separate meter and have +/- the same 10%.

 

[pdx_m3s]

2019 SR+ 90% “recommended”. 2023.20.9

 

[AAKEE]

Strange, I watch a lot of videos (and read info) that starting from 2021 LR AWD received an 82kWh battery.

For the 2021 M3 built there was three possible batteries:
-Panasonic 82kWh. It was quite rare on the LR. All model 3 performance 2021 had that 82 kWh.
-The old 77.8 Panasonic. Said to be limited to about 75kWh.
-The smaller LG, 74.5 kWh this was the most usual pack.

For 2022 when the cars to EU was delivered from Shanghai no LR had the 82 kWh battery. All had the smaller LG (74.5) initially and after a while they was changed overcto the larger LG (78.8kWh)

Also watched several tests, and they got 78kWh 100->0%, and that was the reason why I choose M3 instead of Polestar 2 Performance.

78kWh 100-0% is the 82kWh battery, but that was not present in EU (shanghai built), except for the M3P from shanghai during the first quarter of 2022.

Maybe I'll do some testing later, But I know that will be able to travel 550km on one full charge and this is what I wanted.

I also have a separate meter and have +/- the same 10%.

What WLTP range is your car stated at?

 

[melvladimir]

except for the M3P from shanghai

But they had the same batteries, as I know, due to the same dual motor (and acceleration boost option). I can't quickly find what I watched, but I focused on EU LR versions 2021-2022 (and had doubts regarding 2022 due to Rizen, which has 5% more consumption than Atom), and had been choosing between US/CN and CN won.

I guess you are right, I found the video which I like the most (and which changed my choice to M3 LR):

This is the exact Tecla as I have (VIN is very close)

What WLTP range is your car stated at?

I don't know. I saw "551 km" maximum on a photo, when I got it, there were 95% and 521 km and that estimation was real. After that, I didn't charge till 100%. I'll pick a suitable time and try 5%->100%, but it's also good to have some OBD app.