OCR1
Active Member
That said- all I believe you'd get is a prorated replacement of the original tires, which for the 18s/19s anyway I wouldn't want anyway.
Why is that?
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That said- all I believe you'd get is a prorated replacement of the original tires, which for the 18s/19s anyway I wouldn't want anyway.
Why is that?
because the MXM4 tires aren't very good?
When mine die they'll be replaced by significantly better ones... (though I remain somewhat torn between PS4s and the A/S3+)
Well, yes I figured out from your post that you don’t like them, but what is it you don’t like? And what is the trade off on performance versus range and noise with going with the PS4 or A/S3+?
I know. I didn’t think I was losing it. Michelin was trying to tell me that they changed their warranty back in 2018 and I explained to them that their website said differently. Didn’t matter to them. I agree, it would most likely only be a pro-rated warranty anyway and when it comes to replacement I may go with the General Altimax RT43 which in my opinion is a better tire all around anyway.The internet wayback machine still has copies of the website from earlier this year that included OEM tires in the treadwear warranty.
That said- all I believe you'd get is a prorated replacement of the original tires, which for the 18s/19s anyway I wouldn't want anyway.
The MXM4s take about 30 extra feet to stop the car from 60 mph is the single biggest thing I don't like about em.
I know Edmunds did some comparison testing with the 19” wheels with Continental tires and found they improve braking distance by 5 feet but I haven’t found anyone claim they found a tire that improved braking distance over the OEM Michelin’s by 30 feet. How are you determining this?
Sorry to ask, please interpret "PS4s". Thanks!The PS4s on the P3D+ stop in about 100 feet +/- ~5 depending which magazine test you use.
The MXM4s stop in ~130 feet +/- ~5 from magazine testing.
The only difference that would matter there is tires.
Plus, owners here have swapped from MXM4s to PS4s on the stock 18s and also dropped their braking distance to exactly the same numbers as the Ps
Thanks brother! I will have to replace tires, eventually, and will rely on folks, like yourself, to guage my direction. Experience is everything!PS4S means Michelin PilotSport 4S.
Here is some instrumented test data. Note the PS4S tire measured is 265/35R18 , not the P3D+ stock 235/35R20, and not a 235/45R18, but it probably does not make a huge difference as @Knightshade has quoted magazine test data for the stock 235 width PS4S above. Contact patch will be the same size, just different aspect ratio - most likely the compound is what really matters. Also the PS4S 265/35R18 width actually isn't that much wider than the Tesla PS4S 235/35R20 width; the data can be found on Tire Rack's website (it's 9.6in vs. 8.8in, a few % less difference than you might expect from the sidewall measurement).
Tread width of a PS4S 235/45R18 is 7.6", for comparison.
POLL: What will my 60-0 stopping distance be with Pilot Sport 4S 265/40R18s be?
Shouldn't the new tires have gone on the rear? I thought you always put your deeper tread tires on the rear. I thought they rec'd that because understeer is a far more manageable condition than oversteer for your average driver.Drivers should use great caution if driving on mismatched tire sets (uneven tread depth)
There is another post where the driver was driving 50 mph on a rain soaked road. He noted hydroplaning in the deeper puddles.
He lifted to slow down and regeneration caused his rear tires to hydroplane, while the full depth front tires stuck well.
Ended up in a crash.
Totally normal for a car with the torque of a Tesla to wear the drive wheels more than the others when driven with enthusiasm.
Rotating your tires is the best practice. If you choose to not rotate, when you put fresh tires on just the rears, you will again have mismatched tread, which can cause comprimised handling.
Some tire companies, like Discount tires, will often rotate your tires for free.