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So it sounds like as long as the breaker and terminals are properly rated all is good. Thanks!

See this link, home wire is usually limited to 60C just like NM-B, isn’t it? http://www.cmewire.com/catalog/sec01-bwx/bwx-03-mc-amp.pdf See also https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-calculator/

Pretty sure (?) 6/3 or 6/2 MC is limited to 55-amps in a home so it cannot be used for a wall connector if you want to get the full 48-amps out of the wall connector as it needs wire rated at 60-amps. And the problem with #4 wire is the maximum size wire for the connection to the wall connector...

The reality is while you own the car you do NOT own the software, you have a license to “use” so they don’t need your approval...

By the time you add up all the parts needed for the MC, the wall connector is about the same cost. Are you suggesting the MC for a different reason?

This will help but it not the same as the preconditioning the car does prior to reaching a SuperCharger provided it is set as a stop. Best to take the advice offered by @zecar

Every tire manufacturer recommends tires be routinely rotated. Take you car to a good shop, such as Discount Tire, and talk it over with them to see what your options are.

From the manual: “When you disconnect the trailer’s electrical connection, Trailer Mode does not automatically disengage.” So if the light goes out by itself when disconnecting the electrical connection, that is not what is supposed to happen. The Red Light is when the car detects a faulty...

I think a lot of people do not appreciate FSD is an evolving solution, and a very different one at that. Consider the first autopilots in airplanes were nothing more than “wing levers” which could not hold a heading or altitude, it just tried to kept the wings level. Decades later we now have...

And that is a good reason to buy EAP. In my experience, however, IMHO the car does a poor job in handing interchanges and then merging into traffic, unless the interchange is rather basic and traffic is light. Here is Atlanta I found those features useless.

Layoffs, big discounts and now a reduction for FSD, anyone smell Tesla desperation?

This is pretty much what Autosteer, which comes with the car, gives you right now.

change “vehicle access” in the charger my home settings In the app in the My Home section this is under Settings > Vehicle Charging > Access Control

See below, looks like 6-years is the suggested lifespan. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-aging#:~:text=Some%20tire%20experts%20contend%20that,can%20be%20a%20little%20unpredictable.

Almost all of them do, they want to earn your business when it is time to replace tires. If this is your first rotation it is also a good idea to get the tires balanced. They will charge you for that, but then future balancing is free! BTW, please don’t post the same question in multiple forums.

Almost all of them do, they want to earn your business when it is time to replace tires. If this is your first rotation it is also a good idea to get the tires balanced. They will charge you for that, but then future balancing is free!

Check out this page for the various HW and MCU levels / features https://tesla-info.com/blog/tesla-feature-differences-by-hardware.php

Obviously, it is better if you leave the car in the garage instead. But I assume this is not an option.

Try this: Reboot the car If that does not work, then reboot the phone If that does not work, then uninstall the app and reinstall it.

Open your Tesla app scroll to the bottom, what software version do you have? 2024.?.? Now click on “Release Notes” and see what FSD version you have. If it is 12.3.? you have FSD (supervised). Read the notes.

You can recover the password by using this diagnostic tool: https://www.tesla.com/contactus/troubleshooting?troubleshootingGuide=diagnoseHomeChargingProblem

Here is a possibility.. The Frunk has two locks, the main lock and a safety lock (just like all cars.) If the frunk is not opened in a timely fashion after the main lock releases, the safety lock re-locks. So try this: places your hands on both sides of the Tesla logo and press down firmly...

You can order parts from Tesla and pick them up. For example, people do this all the time for the LV battery.

The number in parentheses (2024.3.15) is the software version. In order to get the FSD version go here: https://www.notateslaapp.com/software-updates/ 2024.3.15 is FSD version 12.3.4 Or just click on “Release notes” ;)

Why did you take it to Tesla for the bushing? Any good shop can do suspension work, alignments, brakes, rotations, balancing, etc. I never take my car to a Tesla SC for anything unless I have no other choice.

There are so many comments on topics like this! The reason Tesla recommends plugging in at home probably has more to do with “marketing” to avoid range complaints. But, it is probably best to plug in every night if it is convenient to do so. You just need to decided the upper limit for the SOC...

Thanks but I did talk about two profiles in my comment.

In trying to explain this to people it is easy for them to get confused. Without FSD you can have TACC or TACC + Autosteer + NoA (if you have EAP) In order to understand what FSD is, it is best when explaining that FSD is really TACC + AutoSteer (ie.g nav on highways and city streets) - there...

I assume you are talking about with FSD. If you do not put in a destination, and enable FSD you get TACC with a better version of “Autosteer.” What you are missing is the car will not automatically navigate to your destination. TACC by itself is just “cruise control.”

Correct. One pull is TACC only, two pulls is TACC + Autosteer. When FSD is enabled, one pull activates the full FSD suite.

In case you missed it, you can setup two profiles - one with FSD enabled and the other with Autosteer. You can then switch profiles on the fly.

Just FYI, EAP looks like it is now $6,000 to purchase and I do not see a subscription option.

Without FSD you “pull” once for TACC and twice for Autosteer. With FSD you only get the one pull option, which enables FSD. There is no way to enable TACC alone.

The real decision point is how long will you keep the car? The break even point when it was $199 / month (at $12,000 for FSD) was 5-years, at $99 / month it is now 10-years. So yes, Tesla can raise the price, but unless someone plans to keep the car 5+ years it really does not appear to make...

The inability to use TACC alone makes this a non-starter for me. Yes, this can be gotten around using two profiles. And while that is fine when evaluating, it is not a good option for mainstream use.

Read your State’s Lemon Law and start following the process. When Tesla is faced with a fix it or buy it back choice it will be fixed.

Your home, your call, your risk. ;)

Interesting thought, but the code states at or below grade and “grade” is a well defined term. Also, a properly built home will, and is required, to always have the soil/dirt/concrete paths/driveways fashioned to ensure water moves away from the home. I find your logic interesting and to be very...

Half-correct. The UMC’s GFCI protects the connection between the UMC and the Tesla. The GFCI in the breaker box protects the outlet and is required by the electrical code - at least in the United States,

Numbers don’t add up to me. You state the total price of the car is $40,630, let’s ignore county fee, registration and sales tax. You indicated credits of Trade-in at $13,200, Lease Incentive of $7,500 (which becomes a tax credit if you buy, see link below), and $250 order deposit, this totals...

@timeshifter BTW, one way to get around the GFCI issue, if it applies in your case, is to terminal the circuit at a small sub-panel in the garage. From there you run a circuit to the outlet using a GFCI breaker in the sub-panel.

Small fly in the ointment, the NEC requires a GFCI breaker. The exception if is the circuit was done when the house was built. If the circuit was added or you changed the wiring after the code was revised in 2017, you need to change the breaker (does not look like you have the room). On the...

Pretty sure #8 copper is the smallest wire you can use to carry 40A. Yes, #10 THHN is rated for 40A, but this assumes 90C wire, which is not used in homes. https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/

Tap on the menu button.

Going to challenge you on this one @Rocky_H, wiring needs to be at the fully rated capacity, so if we are going to install a 30A circuit the wire (and breaker and outlet) needs to be rated 30A. Recall the reason we cannot use #6 Romex with a wall connector on a 60A circuit is because it is rated...

Just select Autosteer instead of FSD in the Autopilot menu.

Plug in the numbers. This was for his originally stated need, which was to a 14-30 outlet and a 60-foot run. Please explain if you still disagree. https://www.paigewire.com/calculators/wiresize-calculator

If you want 60 amps, then you need #4 wire for an 80-foot run, just plug the numbers into the link. Note also that NM-B is not suitable for 60 amps as it only supports 55 amps. You must use the full circuit value of 60 amps and not the 80% value of 48 amps when selecting wires for an EV outlet...

You may find this link helpful https://www.paigewire.com/calculators/wiresize-calculator You need 8/3 wire.

This is an Apples to Oranges comparison to me. The S is a sedan while the X is an SUV.