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If you lease you generally want to put down the least amount of money. BTW, Tesla leases are typically the worst in the industry, I suggest you look at a loan of say 6-years to match payments (about). Then consider what happens when the 3-year (or whatever) lease ends. When the loan comes due...

Actually: 120v * 24a (80% of 30a is the maximum allowed) * 80% efficiency (typical for 120v) = 2,300 watts per hour. Assuming your 555 wH/Mi consumption will equal about 4 miles per hour. So in 4-5 hours you will see 16 to 20 miles.

Absolutely what @brkaus said! Plenty of how to videos are available and the Tesla battery is $90 ish.

Note the inverter must have a THD <5%, preferable < 3%, otherwise the car will not accept the power. Could have changed so be sure to test.

Not really. If you turn off Sentry, Overheat Protection, the radio and the HVAC, very little is still consuming power. I suggest you test this.

You will want to find out if you have a 12v or 16v battery, You should read the Manual (page 236) before attempting a jump start.

Some additional considerations: The 16v battery has a capacity of just 6.9 Ah! The BMS monitors the LV battery and it may see the unexpected drain as a problem, and may generate errors Tesla will void the warranty if you make an "improper" connection. I know, that statement is kind of vague but...

Pretty sure the only way to do this is to tap power from the "penthouse" which is really something you should not do. How about using a 12v battery power supply, such as something like a motorcycle battery?

From the manual: Power is available whenever the vehicle is considered "awake". The vehicle may be awake for many reasons. For example, when using features such as Summon, or when features such as Preconditioning, Cabin Overheat Protection, Keep Climate On, Dog Mode, Camp Mode, Sentry Mode...

Read post #55

Sorry, @3sr+buyer, I missed the word "other" in you response.

Wall Connector $450 + Standard Breaker $15 = $465 Mobile Connector $250 + GFCI Breaker $150 (required by code) + Bryant or Hubbell outlet $80 (these are designed for the high-continuous loads of an EV) and some sort of cable management system $35 = $515 So the wall connector is cheaper without...

Could be a GPS reception problem. (?)

The most common reason for this is when people use 3rd party apps. If you are using one, disable it and see what happens. If no luck there, reboot the Tesla app and then the car.

The outside air temperature is only “accurate” when you have been driving for a while (it needs airflow and time to adjust). But never expect perfection.;) This is true for most, if not all cars.

@Sellout As @ucmndd noted, you cannot pull 48a in wire rated for 55a, it is a code violation. If this is your setup you need to change the configuration in the wall connector to a 50a circuit and you should also replace the 60a breaker with a 50a. Using a 60a breaker with 55a wire is also a...

The only reason I would consider the “universal” is if I already owned an EV with a J1772, or was planning to buy an EV with a J1772. Otherwise, it is just a waste of money - to me.

Let’s skip the whole two-foot driving is a bad idea discussion and consider this: in an ICE car when you take your foot off the accelerator the brake light does not come on until you tap the brake. In an EV when you partially release the accelerator, this is the same situation as occurs in an...

You should definately install a 60a circuit if your circuit breaker panel will support it. Upgrading later is expensive since you would have to rerun the wire. With that said if you go with the 60a option, do NOT allow the electrician to use #6 Romex wire! A 60a circuit requires wire rated for...

There really is no reason to overthink this. Charging at 240v is about 95% effficient. So if the app says you added 50 kWh you actually delivered about 52.6 kWh (50 / 95% = 52.6) to the car.

You need to engage Tesla. I suggest you go here and follow the Troubleshooting support section. https://www.tesla.com/support/charging/wall-connector

In this context a HUD is a Head Up Display. While there may be a Chinese company called “HUD,” pretty sure there is more than one manufacturer for HUDs.

You may right, but these show up on the display which I believe is a video feed from the computer, so it could still be a bug and have impact somewhere else. As I noted, it was on the CAN bus perhaps for a reason, or maybe not. We’ll have to wait and see. If Tesla intentionally removed it, then...

I agree with @E90alex, it does not make sense to use a truckle charger if you can plug the car into an L2 source. In fact, if you leave Sentry and Overheat protection off, the typical loss for a Model Y is about 1% / week, so you will lose <20% in 4-months (test this yourself). In any case I...

The information for these devices typically comes from the CAN bus. It was there for a reason so if that information is no longer being delivered it could be a bug as it likely (?) served a purpose.

Just trying to zero in on the root cause. ;)

Been working fine for months. If you have one what firmware are you on?

RVs run on 120v and do not draw that much power. The 14-50 outlet gives them two 50a, 120v circuits. Most of the loads are intermittent. Check out this chart: https://generatordecision.com/rv-power-consumption-chart-printable-pdf/

True but, another very big problem is these outlets are not protected by GFCI circuit breakers. These breakers are mandatory per the NEC for all EV circuits that terminate with a plug. Therefore, technically, you cannot charge at an RV park since almost all of them use standard breakers. So in...

Add a request for mobile service in the request.

If you DIY be sure to buy the battery from Tesla parts, these batteries are not found at your locate shop. They are also relatively cheap. Tesla mobile service is really a good option and is very reasonable. Also by having them do it, if there are any issues they are right there for you!

First you really need to finish the commissioning process! During setup do not select a Vehicle Charging window, for now. Next, if you are using any 3rd party apps remove them. Then go to the “Schedule” screen in the app, under “Departure” make sure everything is off, then check under the...

@JPWhite I think you just learned the hard way to never take your car to a Tesla SC unless you have no other choice. Always take your car to shops that do the work you need day in and day out. For example, Discount Tire rotates tires for free!

I have a “Sight-Line Dashboard Cluster Display (4.5" Rectangular Style)|” from RPM Tesla. The turn signal in the HUD has stopped working, which I have attributed to the latest Tesla update (2024.20.1). Anybody else having similar issues? I know Tesla does not support “3rd party” items, but if...

There are a number of potentials. Please post a screen shot of the app where you see 16A, and also under “schedule” post screen shots of the “Departure” and “Charge” screens. Also, what Tesla adapter are you using e.g. 14-50, 6-50, ??? BTW, if you are using any third party apps, do not use them...

https://www.tesla.com/support/charging/wall-connector/tesla-app

Totally disagree. Never use a Leviton on a EV circuit.

Maybe your WC functions differently, but in the U.S. we can add the WC to the app and easily control it. The only setting we have is to set the allowable charging window. Note it is easy to also turn it off if you really want to charge at peak hours.

It depends on the objective. If the objective is simply to ensure the car only charges during off-peak, then using the setting in the wall connector is the easiest and most reliable method. The SOC then defines the upper limit.

So many posts on this point! For example: Even for LFP charging to 100% is never good for the battery - because in the end it is still a Lithium ion battery. Tesla only recommends charging to 100% because the BMS only accurately predicts SOC and therefore range, when the voltage is maximum. So...

I suggest there is not “right” way since this is a matter of aesthetics. The only potential consideration, that comes to mind, is the “wrong” way could add drag and reduce mileage.

I suggest you have this too complicated. Turn off everything in the Tesla app and only use the settings in the wall connector. This will only allow the car to charge in the off-peak window. If you leave the car set to 80% SOC that is what you will have each morning. BTW, as noted above, if you...

This is an overblown concern, don’t fret about it. This only seems to be an issue for people who do this all the time.

I had a Model S and now I have a Model Y. As I recall the Mercedes C is a “sedan” while the Y is a small SUV. It has a hatch back which is great for carrying things and it can also tow up to 3,500 lbs. And the standard version goes like a bad out of hell! I suggest you grab the wife and kids and...

Did you look online in your Tesla account in the documents section for your car?

That was not a recommendation just a quick example. I have used them for a wheel alignments with no issues. Certainly find a shop you are comfortable with.

This is a relatively new feature. 😉

Maybe this is about the fact that you should burnish the brakes after replacing brake pads and/or brake rotors? But this can be accessed via the Menu -> controls -> service menu.

Never take your car to a Tesla SC unless you have no other choice. IMHO any competent shop can do brake work. I live in Georgia and just for fun I looked up a brake service on the Pep Boys website for a 2016 Model X, the “Premium” service is about $230. I suggest you shop around. Good luck!

Also It is cheaper! Mobile Connector $250, GFCI breaker $150, Hubbell or Bryant outlet $80, Cable organizer $35 = $515 Wall Connector $450, standard breaker $15 = $465 Of course your prices may vary. The wall connector supports any 240v circuit from 15a all the way up to 60a and is...