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omg! thank you! now I just have to figure out how the hell to remove the frunk liner, and where to mount my equipment!

Depends entirely on locality. My experience, googling these things as I cross state borders, is that the laws are pretty HAM-friendly — because they were often laid down back when the intellectual, young, politically-active geeks *were* HAMs, I suppose. (For instance, several states that have...

I've got my 7100 control-unit in exactly the same place! :rofl: I'm planning on 3D-printing or laser-cutting a piece to permanently mount it there, more securely — probably another half-inch or inch towards the rear of the car, giving a little easier access to the front compartment. The rest...

Sounds out-of-scope, tbh. That said, a generalized npm install -g tesla tool, based on TeslaJS but with a consistent CLI and configstore token-caching, would probably be a well-received project … and given that TeslaJS has done all the hard work, wouldn't be at all difficult to throw together...

Yeah, I'm a lazy buttface, and just knocked this together on a whim — didn't bother testing in older versions. I'm sure I used some ES2016-ism or something by accident. I'm happy to accept any pull-request — don't even have to make it pretty; just click the link and fix whichever line's...

Hey, thought I'd throw this out there real quick: if you're using something like TeslaLog or the My Tesla Alexa-skill, and need an authentication token, I've thrown together a little self-installing tool to generate them quickly. (It doesn't store them anywhere, or contact any servers other than...

I've got a signal-booster; but I actually opted to use a Wi-Fi hotspot on the same antenna, instead: A Browning BR-1024-UHF Adjustable NMO Trunk Mount, holding a Wilson Electronics 800/1900 MHz NMO Antenna - Retail Packaging - Black, connected with a Verizon Jetpack 4G LTE Mobile Hotspot...

Generally I run Waze on my iPad, Spotify on my iPhone, the backup-camera (or Tesla routing, on roadtrips) and energy-usage on the 17" display. I haven't, but I can't fathom why it'd be a problem. Wish I could tell you for sure!

Ahhah! That's precisely the aesthetic I was trying to *avoid*. I really wanted something subtler, and I had nightmares about her turning out like that.

… in the Model X? Are you talking about the distribution-block (big array of fuses, pictured at the top of this thread with the positive-lead's terminal circled), or is yours just laid out totally different from mine? Mind shooting a photo?

But these installations are so freaking expensive. What's the point? That's, what, a half-dozen tickets? I've gotten maybe four in my entire life; I expect another four over the lifetime of the car. That's a few hundred bucks. I fail to see the appeal of a $2,000+ ticket-avoidance-system?

Yep! Got sparks, car shut off, I was overly scared, everything was fine when I finished and reconnected it. Just remember that since the accessible terminals in the X are not the actual battery posts, but rather the opposite end of the battery's leads, you need to reverse the traditional wisdom...

I've got a wide-band scanner antenna mounted to the tiny side-window directly behind the FWDs. Anecdotally, the performance at least beats using a rubber-duck inside the cabin, by a mile … but that's not saying much. As to whether there's much loss in reception compared to that same glass-mount...

Really? Can anybody else confirm? Has anybody reading this performed any sort of testing beyond the anecdotal? I have a Valentine 1 I deeply loved in my Prius, but it's just sitting, unused, in a bag …

Okay, wow, this is a high density of useful information. Can you elaborate on some of the following (where on earth did you source all this? Ex-Tesla?), if you have that information available? Just out of curiosity, what do you mean by ‘three-stage charge algorithm’ and ‘float phase?’ Besides...

Well, again, I'm relatively new; but much of what I have learned, I've picked up from KØBG's site — particularly, to bind the transceiver's power at the chassis, not directly to the battery's terminals. (Not to mention that the Model X's battery-terminals are effectively unreachable — best you...

Are you sure about this? Got a link to your source? Because the blog-post I finally dredged up only mentions P90D, not Ludicrous. My understanding is you receive a non-Ludicrous P100 wiring-harness if you have a non-Ludicrous P90, and a Ludicrous P100 wiring-harness if you have a Ludicrous P90?

Well Well, I can't find a database of EMI tests; but I *did* read through Tesla's FCC registrations! WPHD358 on 896–901 / 935–940 MHz (for security / shipping, afaict), KQL352 operating a non-trunked commercial system somewhere specific in the 450–470 MHz band (someone want to go over near the...

Well, amplifier is precisely where I'm wondering about it: I'm doing the power-system installation now; but on advice from friends, I'm trying to “amplifier-proof” the setup ahead-of-time. (Avoid re-wiring the entire car, basically, if I ever do decide to install an amp.) Regarding the draw of...

Did anyone else with a 90D / P90D get an e-mail from Tesla a few months ago, shortly after the 100D was announced, offering an upgrade to their existing battery-pack and wiring for $US 20,000? I can't find the e-mail right now, and my local service centre is skeptical (they aren't aware of any...

This is precisely the question I'm wrangling with right now, personally. I've got a whole host of equipment being stuffed into this poor car; and I'm really not sure what current-targets to set. What's safe to fuse for? What's safe to draw continuously; what's safe to draw for short periods? At...

If you drill a big hole in your Tesla, I'll come slap you. :P Okay, maybe not ... each to their own, I suppose. Maybe in a Model III, but I refuse to accept any permanent installation in a $100,000+ car! Yikes. O_O They declined to provide any specific information when I asked; hence my...

I need to figure out how to test this once-and-for-all — I really want to know whether my Model X's rear, and side, windows are metallized or not. ಠ_ಠ Either devise some sort of low-power, directional, transmitter/receiver pair on the inside and outside; or locate myself a card with a...

I mean, compared to a darker colour!? If anything, they've gotta stay cooler than any dark alternative, right?

Well, first off, I'm no true infosec'er; disclosure is really not my ballgame; second, I'm way too terrified to continue experimenting with it right this second, especially illegally (off the HAM bands, intentionally causing interference, etceteras), not until I have more experience and know...

You're in Chicago? Hop on the WA9ORC repeater, I'm on there pretty often at the moment! It's sort of my gateway to HAM stuff; been some kind guys there. 443.750 +5MHz.

So, uh. Yes, I can definitely produce ingress interference, reproducibly, on UHF / 2M. (I can literally, reliably, honk the horn by keying up a particular frequency — on a freakin' Baofeng HT, not even my full-power mobile setup.) Anybody else having that sort of trouble? I freaked out and shut...

Rear seats are, indeed, the same perforated appearance, but rear seats are not ventilated. The ventilation, eve on the front seats, is hella weedy — but that's widely documented elsehwere in this thread and on these forums. The white material really is quite impervious. I don't have kids, but I...

Man, I really need to look into the digital modes — I've done *nothing* but voice yet. #noob

ThisIsTrue, I'm keeping the one you just linked to up-to-date with my adventures — if you need any specific answers that I happen to have, feel free to directly message me or post in that thread. (=

Here's a few shots of my mounting of the UHV-6:

As of today, my license has landed in the database! Feel free to drop me a PM if you want my callsign — I'm doing my best to avoid linking my professional identity with ‘the guy who owns that pink-af Tesla’ (especially if I cut somebody off in traffic and get Googled ;) It's currently...

First off, there doesn't appear to be any feedback e-mail or support information on the site. I dug through the site first, then the Tesla Owners group, before finally finding your support-thread here. At the very least, even if it's a limited-release beta, you should probably include a link...

I've gotten myself into a bit of a situation (stuck in Montana on summer-tires.), and I'm supposing I'm going to have to purchase winter tires for my summer wheels (22"ers) to get home safely in a few weeks. -_- The tires I'd be purchasing would only be used for the ~2,500km drive home, and...

Oh, and re: the battery terminals, it turned out to be an easy task. Did scare myself shitless removing the negative terminal to a disheartening display of sparks; but none of the electronics in my car appear to have been affected whatsoever. I was worried about inconsistent transient voltage...

Ahhh, the project's partially completed, and on something of a hold for the moment. I'm not licensed yet (finally testing on November 19th in Billings! I'm excited. Wish I had a good practice-resource for the Extra exam.), so I can't transmit, and thus can't test for ingress EFI (trust me, the...

Honestly, I'm realllllly not that concerned about the occupant-detection system — the only ‘occupants’ in the back of my car when these seat-covers are on, will be my dogs, so. :P Regarding the airbags — well, same, those aren't gonna help my dogs … and to boot, all the ones being posted cover...

Jesus Christ, that's a beautiful Model X.

Second-row pics in the car? I don't have any handy; but I really don't think these covers will work. Unfortunately, it looks like they require traditional removable headrests *and* a seat-back that's seperate from the seat-bottom, with a crack through which the stretchy-cords can be pulled. /=

Well first off, thanks to you, there's now a Twitter mega-thread about this website's products that is netting me an unreasonable number of likes; I'll only repost the very best one of them here: Anyway, all of the madness on that wonderful site aside, I'm actually genuinely considering these...

Ahhah, allow me to introduce myself: I am apparently sperryspoop6x, because I thought very similarly to both of the above posters! I, too, bought several different options (hey, they're all like, $US 20 — it's a $150k car, what do I care about spending a couple hundred to find the solution...

I wouldn't say any of the features are worth $4,500. That said, they are *wonderful*. Self-presenting door is mediocre (remember, the fob still works — realistically, I usually smash my jeans with the heel of my hand on the way to the car, so it's opening *before* I walk up. I rarely even see...

I'm doing some similar running of wiring for a HAM transceiver; you'lol probably beat me to it, as I'm lazy and slow, but if you don't — I'll share whatever I find out. (Might want to re-title the thread something about “wiring through the firewall,” though.)

Unfortunately, I have no reliable Wi-Fi access to my car. She basically waits for Service Center visits to get updates. /=

Okay, so I'm … mildly concerned again. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but, This is a battery under load — I haven't found a way to truly turn the Model X off? Unless I'm missing something, the doors always operate, the screens light up immediately when you sit down / the computers are obviously...

Ah, so that is the 12V battery's return connection, after all? I'd hoped / suspected as much, due to the matching appearance of that black lead … but I'd wanted confirmation.

So, I've found these two ‘battery posts’ (at least, for jump-starting the 12V system) under the service panel, in the frunk — strangely, they're on *opposite sides* of the car, nowhere near one another: However, I need to attach power-leads specifically at the point where the 12V battery...

Well, I reported this to my SC, they kept it for a week, and then told me it's a known issue and that I'll be informed when a fix is available. -_-

There's a couple of these gaskets embedded near the top of where the rear hatch closes — does anybody know what they're for? (Specifically, if they're not covering some sort of sensor or something else sensitive, I'd like to cut a hole in it to run some wiring from the exterior of the vehicle...

Everything else aside, be aware that that glass-mount antenna is not compatible with the WeBoost and similar (note, it specifically says “Not for use with wireless amplifiers.”) — it can't pass that much power through the glass, I'm guessing? It's sold to be directly connected to a cell-phone...