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Need to replace one of my repeater cameras. It appears D is compatible but getting a better deal on E's. Will E's work?

Yes I heard about that. Is that cut-off an 18?

Helping my mom sell her car. We're a Tesla family - 3, 2xSs, and 1xX. It comes with everything FSD, etc. ~37K miles. Ad here https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/304dd2c1-5c07-48bd-833e-0092ee1628c9/

Nope - full front, doors, and rear trunk area. When it started to bubble at a couple spots, Greg fixed it for free. I can't recommend him enough!

It's a long wait and requires patience and then comes the install - hope it all goes well! In the end, it's all worth it.

Confirmed 100% working with fast kicking motion.

Your guidance was a god send. Doing a quick kick like you suggested worked 5 out of 5 attempts! Here's hoping it wasn't a fluke

Lol - I basically have a muscle spasm to get it to open! Do me a favor and take a vid w/ your phone?

Same - I cleaned the area before placing the double sided tape and that sucker was on strong. Shockingly, while taking out the groceries, my wife said it worked yesterday - how inconsistent!

Post 2 months now of install my foot sensor all but has stopped working; no amount of foot waving seems to get it going. 50% of the time if I open the trunk, I can close it with the foot sensor but that's really useless given I wanted to open it with the foot wave. The irony given that was the...

Ya that's steep but I understand they need to make a buck.

If it's $1K, you can take my name off that list! Max I'd pay is 4-500. I mean come on now...

And me. Just installed the trunk lift gate so I'm ready to go.

Dayum!!!

Did you guys read my posts about my issues with the foot sensor? I spent hours troubleshooting mine and got it to work.

When I was about to install the struts, I did notice that OEM opened the trunk maybe a couple inches higher but nothing significant. It doesn't feel like the HS are robbing us of height. My 2 cents.

I was actually never able to separate that rear sensor so I just pulled out how it was snapped into the holding spot. Yes, I'll try the reboot.

So don't know if this is pure coincidence or what, but take a look at what I was dealing with on a long ride today:

Shaky memory - maybe I didn't connect the bottom one and decided to do it when I was tidying things up. Man the amount of combinations I tried. I swear I did hours of troubleshooting :( This was the biggest project I've done on the car (other one was painfully installing a carbon fiber panel to...

FYI - troubleshooting took me as long as the entire install did - so I paid dearly and hoping it can save someone some time if their kit is like mine.

I finally figured it out and posting in case it will help someone else. My kit came with the white wire cut on both harness ends - the side that plugs into the main control unit and the side that plugs into the motor control plug: It appears no one else has it cut on the motor control plug end...

Could it be faulty wiring? Bad unit? Red to red power Green to white (light plug) black to black (light plug) My only options was to use taps because posi-taps don't work on 18 gauge wire

So good news bad news: - Once I reconnected the white wire that was cut from them in my main harness cable, voila the kicking motion worked! Bad news: - I've only gotten it to work twice. 1) After the first time when I connected the white wire which was originally cut by them 2) After resetting...

No carbon fiber. I'm talking white wire of the connector plug not white wire of the foot sensor harness.

So I can't get the foot sensor to work for the life of me. Followed the wiring diagram. Been troublshooting with Hans himself but now it's pretty late and he's sleeping. He told me I absolutely needed to connect the white wire from the plug connector to the white wire coming form the harness...

Mine slams w/ stock stoppers. I'm going to try and adjust the strength.

They're telling me on whatsapp I just leave it dangling - nice!

So you're white wire from item 9 runs right into the main harness? So you had to fish 9 through the tubing?

According to these diagram, it appears the white wire from the connector (9) is connected to the main harness (5). It came separated/cut for me. That's why I had originally said I'm going to posi-lock it to the dangling white wire (which is connected to the main harness)

My Y-adapter is different than yours, take a look at it attached. There's no white cable in it (blue/red/blk) and yellow/red/blue to match the same color combo from the main wiring harness. The white dangling wire there on the right is from the wiring harness.

Here's mine:

Where does that white wire go (see my top left arrow)? It's soldered to the wires on that connector but the other end is free

BTW - I couldn't disconnect the connector behind the bumper for the life of me. I pulled down the grey T-connector and couldn't separate the two halves by hand and didn't feel like using pliers to pull them apart. I got slack by pulling out the black stopper that keeps it snug to the bumper.

So what should I do with the white wire that's dangling on that connector? Leave it hanging?

Power wire is red not purple - are they trying to throw us off on purpose!?

You are right there are white wires cut in the updated kit. I think I’ll just posi lock them.

So the white wire doesnt tap into anything? I'm literally just daisy chaining?

I'm hoping someone can provide a quick answer as I'm in the middle of the install and a little lost as to what to do with the switch plug given I don't have an in-cabin switch. Is this not to be used? In some of the videos it appears a purple wire from the main wiring harness gets tapped into...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CTTH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 White clips never get broken as you leave them in the trunk lid.

So I'm in the middle of my install and some comments/observations/questions: 1) Stock struts have way more clearance from rubber strip than these ones do (see pics left pic is the new strut, right pick is the stock strut). I closely watch the rub as I closed the lid and it definitely pushes it...

So what was your problem exactly so I can avoid it :)

You sure you placed the foot sensor right side up (there is some directionality to it). Your posts are the only one that seem to mention a touching action to get it to work.

So you left the stock stoppers on?

Why didn't it come like this?

So that means you don't really need to remove the tail lights do you?

You're referring to the 12v cable under the red cap in your top pic? Disconnect that? That's also where I'm planning on running my power to.

BTW - take a look at this video: At the 23:24 mark, he shows a new way to run the 12v using a gap behind the side of the dash - pretty ingenious! Still not sure why I shouldn't just run it to under the rear passenger seat.

In what instance do you think you'd want to open the trunk from inside the car vs being outside the car if you got the version with the foot sensor? Trying to figure out if it's worth doing this modification. Also, I don't seem to have the connector you seem to mention that has this blue wire...

Did you end up using wire taps or sodering?

So it looks like I'm just behind you in the install and waiting for some insight into your situation in case I run into it myself when installing the foot sensor.