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Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!

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So far we have 4 cars that have frunk closing issues. One built in June 2019, two built in July 2019 and one built in September 2019. It doesn’t seem to be market (eg, US or European) specific. Has anyone installed the frunk kit in a June 2019 or later built car and have proper closing of. the frunk?
 
So far we have 4 cars that have frunk closing issues. One built in June 2019, two built in July 2019 and one built in September 2019. It doesn’t seem to be market (eg, US or European) specific. Has anyone installed the frunk kit in a June 2019 or later built car and have proper closing of. the frunk?
This might be a good poll for a new thread. Put ranges of months maybe? I.e. Jan - march 2019 not working, April-June 2019 not working. Etc.
 
This might be a good poll for a new thread. Put ranges of months maybe? I.e. Jan - march 2019 not working, April-June 2019 not working. Etc.

I’ve never set one up. If you know how to do this, please set it up. But I think it should also include indicating cars in those ranges (if any) wherein the frunk closing kit functions correctly.
 
For those people that are installing the kick foot sensor, I suggest you view the following installation video starting at about the 52 minute mark:

The guy that made this video shows how to install the kick foot sensor without having to remove the bumper cover. Apparently there is a service panel that can be removed that gives one access to the bumper area. Since Tesla constantly changes things on their cars I’m not certain if every car has such a service panel, but if your car does, this greatly simplifies the installation of the kick foot sensor.
My car has this service panel, (9/19 build date). I may still take the bumper off though, not sure about routing the strut wires through the taillight holes (leaks and crimping the wire)
 
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I can tell the company to contact you to put you as a certified installer on their website. Future buyers will look for you for installation. Does it sound okay? Could you send me your name, your email, and your location (with zipcode) again? The company is in the process of making an "Installer Locations" on their website.

LOL...I sure hope that’s not all it takes to be one of their “certified” installers. One install on your personal vehicle?
 
@no_speeding,

This may seem obvious but have you checked that the Frunk Latch is NOT closed/locked already? Which would cause the U-Bracket to just bounce off of it without the soft-close able to actuate. You can release it with a screwdriver.

Ski

tried the advice from the video, tried to reset the latch, and anything i can think of.

it seems like the frunk stops once it hits the latch. the soft touch doesn't release the latch to let the frunk drop.
 
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I’ve never set one up. If you know how to do this, please set it up. But I think it should also include indicating cars in those ranges (if any) wherein the frunk closing kit functions correctly.
I do not actually.
I’ve never set one up. If you know how to do this, please set it up. But I think it should also include indicating cars in those ranges (if any) wherein the frunk closing kit functions correctly.
i’ve never done it but it looks pretty easy.
Go here
Then when you scroll down a little, you’ll see the POLL option and a place to put your options.
 
So far we have 4 cars that have frunk closing issues. One built in June 2019, two built in July 2019 and one built in September 2019. It doesn’t seem to be market (eg, US or European) specific. Has anyone installed the frunk kit in a June 2019 or later built car and have proper closing of. the frunk?

My theory is that for the later builds, the distance from ball to ball when the frunk is fully closed has been shortened from earlier models. As a result, the Hansshow struts are too long and bottom out before the frunk can fully closed.

My factory struts are 15" off the car (fully extended) and another user posted a pic of their factory struts, which looked to be about 13". So my newer build strut is longer at full extension, which makes sense if at the point the frunk is fully closed the distance is shorter, the newer strut would have to extend a further distance when the frunk is fully open.

just got a message from Hansshow that their engineers will guide me through the install through WhatsApp. I'll post back if anything works, but the solution won't be moving the locking mechanism up as they had advised earlier as it would not make the trunk align flush and would require bending the hood to close further to meet the locking mechanism.
 
Mine slams w/ stock stoppers. I'm going to try and adjust the strength.

I put my stock stoppers back on this weekend...no difference. It still slams right near the end more than I'd like. Left the stock ones on there. My understanding is that the default strength setting is already at the lowest, so I didn't adjust it. I read that you'd only need to increase it if your trunk doesn't close properly. I did increase the speed to the fastest setting, but there was no noticeable slam difference with the speed change.
 
So don't know if this is pure coincidence or what, but take a look at what I was dealing with on a long ride today:

upload_2019-10-28_18-51-7.png
 
Did you remove the rear bumper? If so, did you make sure that the rear sensor connector was fully locked in when you reinstalled the rear bumper?

try rebooting the car before you do any dismantling. Just in case it’s a computer glitch.
 
I put my stock stoppers back on this weekend...no difference. It still slams right near the end more than I'd like. Left the stock ones on there. My understanding is that the default strength setting is already at the lowest, so I didn't adjust it. I read that you'd only need to increase it if your trunk doesn't close properly. I did increase the speed to the fastest setting, but there was no noticeable slam difference with the speed change.
I left my stocks on and same here, it slams at the end. The Frunk closes extremely well. Anyone know how to adjust?