TEG
Teslafanatic
- Aug 20, 2006
- 21,719
- 8,690
SByer
'08 #383
Could it be just better tolerance in the '10 firmware for the tire pressure difference between when driving leaves off and the now-cold tires the next morning? Or maybe there's some TPMS difference that allows for the extra dynamic?
Hmm. I wonder if there's something the tattler could store/restore?
Hmm. I wonder if there's something the tattler could store/restore?
Update.
I did that original 50 mile freeway drive a few times last week. Twice at "off commute" high speed drive-time and once in the middle of LA traffic. The slow to medium speed stop and go (on and off the accelerator) does teach the car to learn the tires to make regen work. Problem is, the car is stupid enough to forget all it's education later on. For me it was a 14 hour work day later on. So I'm not sure if it is forgetting immediately at the key turn off or if the smarts seep out over the course of many hours like a slow leaky tire.
On the good side, Falken says they will give me a full refund.
Now, the question for the group is, which are the tires you are happy with that are the best price?
I did that original 50 mile freeway drive a few times last week. Twice at "off commute" high speed drive-time and once in the middle of LA traffic. The slow to medium speed stop and go (on and off the accelerator) does teach the car to learn the tires to make regen work. Problem is, the car is stupid enough to forget all it's education later on. For me it was a 14 hour work day later on. So I'm not sure if it is forgetting immediately at the key turn off or if the smarts seep out over the course of many hours like a slow leaky tire.
On the good side, Falken says they will give me a full refund.
Now, the question for the group is, which are the tires you are happy with that are the best price?
Jaff
Active Member
Eric,
With respect to Falken tires in general, I've not found that a lot of folks are happy with them...from the few hours that I spent researching tire information last fall (for snows), I noticed that Falken had an inordinate amount of negative responses from those who had purchased them.
I'm ok with the standard Yoko AD07's, but I would like more dry road traction...my TM ranger who has track experience, has suggested that I try the Bridgestone Potenza RE 11's...I might give them a try when my Yokos are spent.
With respect to Falken tires in general, I've not found that a lot of folks are happy with them...from the few hours that I spent researching tire information last fall (for snows), I noticed that Falken had an inordinate amount of negative responses from those who had purchased them.
I'm ok with the standard Yoko AD07's, but I would like more dry road traction...my TM ranger who has track experience, has suggested that I try the Bridgestone Potenza RE 11's...I might give them a try when my Yokos are spent.
Ok,
Falken gave me a full (pure?) refund on the rears. Replaced with the P4 Toyos. TC works most all of the time (Falkens almost never worked) Tire pressures are 34F 36R. Best of all regen is back!
They are not as grippy and the stock Yokos and on turns it feels like the whole tire is bending over but at half the price they are certainly a good option.
While my regen was off for the last 3K miles I wonder how much miles I lost...?
Falken gave me a full (pure?) refund on the rears. Replaced with the P4 Toyos. TC works most all of the time (Falkens almost never worked) Tire pressures are 34F 36R. Best of all regen is back!
They are not as grippy and the stock Yokos and on turns it feels like the whole tire is bending over but at half the price they are certainly a good option.
While my regen was off for the last 3K miles I wonder how much miles I lost...?
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Same here but Lotus owners were using them on track days. That's why i tried them when my tire shop said that's what they had. They just don't work on the Roadster. No Regen and nearly 1/2 the Traction Control.
I learn and move on.
dhrivnak
Active Member
When my Neova 07 rears were worn out at 4500 miles I replaced them with Continental Extreme Contact DWS. For me they were 1/2 the cost of new Neova 07's and they have 3X the projected tire life. I only have 100 miles on them and have not been back to the track but I have had no issues with the TC light. So far I am pleased and have not been able to notice a downside.
I just hated to take all the money and CO2 I am saving with the Tesla and spend it on repeated tire replacements.
I just hated to take all the money and CO2 I am saving with the Tesla and spend it on repeated tire replacements.
Doug_G
Lead Moderator
I'm with you on the sentiment, but I switched to tires with "280 tread wear" (versus 100 for stock Yokos) and got perhaps 20% more life out of them.
Sorry for the slow reply here, but I can tell you I am very satisfied with the Continental Extremes on the front. But the better news is that on the rears I have Michelin Pilot Sport A/S plus from Costco! Great tire and great price. Not only have I raced them in the 1/4 mile and beat a few Porsches, after the first 11K miles or so, when they wore down, the warranty kicked in and I got a replacement pair almost for free! Who can top that?
So with 26K miles now (stock Yokos replaced after about 8K), I still have plenty of tread, as confirmed at my 24K "tune-up" last week. Tesla NYC staff is pretty impressed...
Hope this helps.
So with 26K miles now (stock Yokos replaced after about 8K), I still have plenty of tread, as confirmed at my 24K "tune-up" last week. Tesla NYC staff is pretty impressed...
Hope this helps.
Looking for a recommendation on an all-season "low maintenance" set of tires on a 1.5 non-sport.
98% of my driving is done at highway speeds. I don't want to change tires three times a year for weather (we get everything but tsunamis here... so far). I'm not interested in scratching every last tenth of second out of the 0-60 tie. It's my daily driver, weather permitting.
Also, anything I should be aware of / point out to the shop when taking it someplace that has never seen / heard of a Tesla? I see the jacking points in the manual but didn't see anything about going up on a lift, other than having to buy adapters from Tesla. Is this the only option?
98% of my driving is done at highway speeds. I don't want to change tires three times a year for weather (we get everything but tsunamis here... so far). I'm not interested in scratching every last tenth of second out of the 0-60 tie. It's my daily driver, weather permitting.
Also, anything I should be aware of / point out to the shop when taking it someplace that has never seen / heard of a Tesla? I see the jacking points in the manual but didn't see anything about going up on a lift, other than having to buy adapters from Tesla. Is this the only option?
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You or the tire shop can change the rear tires by jacking up one side of the car at a time. (The front tires can be changed the same way, or the entire front end can be jacked up with two jacks at one time.) Just explain to the shop and point out the well-marked jacking points.
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The only tired officially recommended that fits front and rear sizes exactly is the AD07s. That's really just a summer tire than does ok in rain as well. For heavy snow, they do sell a winter tire set. You'd have to change your tires twice a year though.
See this for other recommendations:
2.5 Roadster / Roadster Sport Tire Thread
Be very careful about having them put your car on a lift. You're much better off using the jack points to do one tire at a time.
Doug_G
Lead Moderator
Tip: if you use the rear jack point, the front wheel comes off the ground first. You don't need to jack four times - only twice.
So anyone have experience changing the tires themselves? If all we're talking about is buy a tire / swap a tire I can handle that. Is there any more fancy-schmancy calibration that needs to happen?
Sometimes I think I'm talking myself into over-thinking Tesla ownership, but it could be kind of expensive to under-think it... know what I mean? :redface:
Edit: pgwoosley: missed you post earlier. Looks like you answered this already, unless someone else has any further tidbits.
Sometimes I think I'm talking myself into over-thinking Tesla ownership, but it could be kind of expensive to under-think it... know what I mean? :redface:
Edit: pgwoosley: missed you post earlier. Looks like you answered this already, unless someone else has any further tidbits.
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Doug_G
Lead Moderator
You have to differentiate between changing the wheels and changing the tires. It's pretty easy to swap wheels (with tires attached). It will take half an hour once you're used to it. You just need a decent jack - one that goes low enough to fit under the Roadster - and a torque wrench with a 17 mm deep socket. Plus the adapters that are in the car's toolkit. I swapped winter tires on/off myself (didn't bother with the tire sensors - I just ignored the TMPS errors). I now have a set of wheels with Yokohama A048's to swap in whenever I do autocross.
Now swapping a tire on a wheel is a different matter. You require a machine to do that, and they are found at auto shops. Once the tire has been changed the wheel needs to be rebalanced. The machine also helps with that.
I've noticed that the fronts gradually go out of balance as they wear, and this eventually causes steering vibration. So I always have my fronts rebalanced whenever the rear tires are changed.
I'm talking about jack it up, five nuts, pull one off, put one on, five nuts, jack it down. Rinse. Repeat.
Does it depend on what my definition of "is" is? :smile:
Does it depend on what my definition of "is" is? :smile:
Doug_G
Lead Moderator
Yeah, it's that easy. Steps are:
- You'll need a jack, torque wrench, and 17 mm deep socket driver. Also from the car's tookit you will need the bolt extension tool (for four bolts on each wheel) and the locking bolt adapter (for one bolt on each wheel).
- Remove the key and apply the hand brake.
- Pick a side of the car to start on.
- Loosen the five bolts on both wheels on that side - one turn at most. (Be a little careful when you use the locking bolt adapter; it would be a real pain if you were to break it!)
- Locate the rear jacking point - identified in the manual, but on my car there's a blue sticker under the car that precisely identifies the location.
- Lift the car. You'll see the front wheel come off the ground first, even though you're jacking the back.
- Undo the five bolts and swap the front wheel.
- Make sure you have the directional tread in the correct direction! If not you've got the wrong wheel.
- Put the five bolts back on, don't fully tighten yet (the wheel will spin)
- Repeat the replacement procedure for the rear wheel.
- Lower the car and remove the jack.
- Set the torque wrench to 77 ft lbs and tighten all five bolts on each wheel in an alternating pattern. Go around a second time to make sure all five bolts are tight; they might not be if the wheel was a little cocked the first time.
- Repeat for the other side of the car.
OK, now we're on the same page. :biggrin:
So basically I can spend ±$1300 on a new set of tires & wheels and do it myself, or have a chain shop that's never seen a Tesla replace the tires for me... Kind of feel like either way I'm taking a big leap of faith!
So basically I can spend ±$1300 on a new set of tires & wheels and do it myself, or have a chain shop that's never seen a Tesla replace the tires for me... Kind of feel like either way I'm taking a big leap of faith!
doug
Administrator / Head Moderator
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