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12v constant in rear trunk
- Thread starter Sir Guacamolaf
- Start date
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- Tags
- Model S
This 2.80mm female terminal worked for me:
Mouser No: 571-1326030-4-LP
Mfr. No: 1326030-4 (Loose Piece)
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
OOooooo, I like. Looks neat and complicated. You should make some up for us.
My fear of tapping into something is not strong enough to prevent me from trying (if someone has already done it). I got my cue from artsci. He created the lighted rear applique for the S several years ago. Fun mod and always gets people's attention (when a Tesa itself is not enough). In his instructions he found 12v persistent power in the trunk. He taught me about Posi-Taps and I agree they are far more safe than cutting into a wire. I used just one and added a Blade fuse holder box mounting it on the accessible from inside the trunk above the liftgate controller. With this one item, I now can return to the fuse box and tap into power gracefully without tapping a tap or finding another source. You don't know me well, so let me also add, my OCB* had me add a 10 amp fuse coming off the liftgate controller's power going to the fuse box. Even though the fuse box is FUSES, I double protect everything, so the fuse box has a fuse where it gets its power.
* OCB Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (Considered a bad thing)
OCD Obsessive Compulsive Behavior (I think of it as a good thing. Causes me to keep my Tesla washed and vacuumed, beer in the frige, snacks in the desk, Live PD in my Google calendar, you see the point.
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
I used a red wire with grey stripe that provides constant hot to my hatch to wire Tekonsha converter for Model S hitch lights. On my car it enters the rear hatch control box on the lower right connector on the rear passenger side of the car. I agree with using the scotch locks or wire taps for securing/splicing all wires to both the hot leads and ground leads.
My March 2017 S90D matched this description. And I took a few pictures in case it helps some one else out. I was able to do this with fully removing the carpet, I just peeled it back from the seat side towards the trunk until I could access the wires I needed.
Here is the connector:
And pulled out showing the grey wire I tapped off of:
Matt
Isn't that actually the EPB connector, not the liftgate controller connector? The Applique install shows the lower right connector being tapped, not the upper left when viewed from the trunk. That might limit the available current. I'd be interested to see the pinout to see if I can add a 12v relay to disconnect the 12v tap when the liftgate is in operation, so I can safely pull closer to 30A off the connector, since I can't easily reach in to turn off the load if the liftgate is already closed.
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Super helpful details... thanks for the tips. One question... Since I have a powered liftgate in my S, what type of wire tap would you recommend to get power from off the red and black wires on pins 8 and 7?No, the connector in question looks like this:
It's located behind the passenger (right) rear side of the shock tower behind the carpet. If you have the powered liftgate, it goes into a black box with an additional connector. If not, it's disused and taped to the harness.
Pin 8 is the +12v (hot always). It's a Red with Grey stripe 2mm conductor wire. It's fused by a 30A fuse (Fuse #42 located in the fusebox shown below). The ground is pin 7, a black wire, also 2mm.
This feed can also be picked up in the large grey rectangular connector located behind the passenger kick panel in front of the passenger door on the right. Still the same Red wire with grey stripe, on pin #3.
If the liftgate isn't in operation, it's safe to draw up to 30A on this system. If the liftgate is in operation, I'd limit my max draw to about 10A peak. Since the liftgate only operates very intermittently, it's usually fine for electric coolers, HAM equipment, etc. Note that this is not switched, so it will draw on the 12 volt AGM battery when the car is sleeping. The gateway monitors the voltage of the 12v system with a check every hour. If it detects a low AGM, it will place the car in support mode to recharge it using power from the main pack. However, since it's only checking every hour, if you have a substantial load, it could run the AGM down before the gateway notices, and you'd have to jump the car to get it going again. I recommend turning off "energy savings" and choose "always connected" if you are running anything more than small standby loads on the 12v system while the car is off. You can tell when the car enters support mode, as you hear the contactors make the "clunk clack" noise under the car.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I don't know about those guys, but I used a large Positap from Amazon. They make different flavors and sizes.
That pin 7 and 8 its on when the car is on, its not always on , my is model S 2015 .I dont know if any setting like power saving or new V10 change the pin power or not.No, the connector in question looks like this:
It's located behind the passenger (right) rear side of the shock tower behind the carpet. If you have the powered liftgate, it goes into a black box with an additional connector. If not, it's disused and taped to the harness.
Pin 8 is the +12v (hot always). It's a Red with Grey stripe 2mm conductor wire. It's fused by a 30A fuse (Fuse #42 located in the fusebox shown below). The ground is pin 7, a black wire, also 2mm.
This feed can also be picked up in the large grey rectangular connector located behind the passenger kick panel in front of the passenger door on the right. Still the same Red wire with grey stripe, on pin #3.
If the liftgate isn't in operation, it's safe to draw up to 30A on this system. If the liftgate is in operation, I'd limit my max draw to about 10A peak. Since the liftgate only operates very intermittently, it's usually fine for electric coolers, HAM equipment, etc. Note that this is not switched, so it will draw on the 12 volt AGM battery when the car is sleeping. The gateway monitors the voltage of the 12v system with a check every hour. If it detects a low AGM, it will place the car in support mode to recharge it using power from the main pack. However, since it's only checking every hour, if you have a substantial load, it could run the AGM down before the gateway notices, and you'd have to jump the car to get it going again. I recommend turning off "energy savings" and choose "always connected" if you are running anything more than small standby loads on the 12v system while the car is off. You can tell when the car enters support mode, as you hear the contactors make the "clunk clack" noise under the car.
