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2019 Raven S total failure at 75mph-Chapter 1

bookiepilot69

Member
Aug 26, 2018
59
66
Sun Lakes Az
We drove uneventfully from Phoenix to Santa Fe (the car is a dream!) but, on our return trip to Phoenix Monday morning, we had a total shutdown on I-40 about 40 miles east of Flagstaff. We had enough power to limp off the freeway, got to a good parking area and then soon lost all power. In the meantime we were able to call roadside assistance (called twice - took only four minutes to get help the first call and just seconds before they answered on the second call - REALLY GREAT RESPONSE!)

They dispatched a flatbed tow truck to us - took about 1.5 hours - and then we got to ride in the tow vehicle for the next three hours while we were towed to the service center in Scottsdale where the car now sits in the service center.

I learned a couple of things that are probably worth passing along.

1. If you're on a level surface where the car won't roll (or if you chock the wheels) go to 'tow mode' in order to put the car in neutral. This enables the tow vehicle to winch it onto the bed without rolling resistance.

2. Also fully raise the suspension and then enable 'jack mode' so it's easier to load.

I call this Chapter 1 because I still have no idea what the problem is. And, of course, I'll post Chapter 2 as soon as I learn what failed.

Of course it was a miserable experience in many ways but I want to very clearly thank Tesla for the incredibly outstanding roadside assistance. It could not have been better.

More later...
 

DoubleE

Member
May 4, 2016
569
389
Rancho Mission Viejo, CA
We drove uneventfully from Phoenix to Santa Fe (the car is a dream!) but, on our return trip to Phoenix Monday morning, we had a total shutdown on I-40 about 40 miles east of Flagstaff. We had enough power to limp off the freeway, got to a good parking area and then soon lost all power. In the meantime we were able to call roadside assistance (called twice - took only four minutes to get help the first call and just seconds before they answered on the second call - REALLY GREAT RESPONSE!)

They dispatched a flatbed tow truck to us - took about 1.5 hours - and then we got to ride in the tow vehicle for the next three hours while we were towed to the service center in Scottsdale where the car now sits in the service center.

I learned a couple of things that are probably worth passing along.

1. If you're on a level surface where the car won't roll (or if you chock the wheels) go to 'tow mode' in order to put the car in neutral. This enables the tow vehicle to winch it onto the bed without rolling resistance.

2. Also fully raise the suspension and then enable 'jack mode' so it's easier to load.

I call this Chapter 1 because I still have no idea what the problem is. And, of course, I'll post Chapter 2 as soon as I learn what failed.

Of course it was a miserable experience in many ways but I want to very clearly thank Tesla for the incredibly outstanding roadside assistance. It could not have been better.

More later...

Any info on your battery level when you lost power?
 

PDB33

Member
May 24, 2018
93
38
Oxford, UK
I had a similar problem in April. Several messages "car needs service, pull over safely", then "Power reduced, vehicle systems shutting down". Fortunately it was parked at home at the time, about to drive to work. The roadside assistance person connected jump leads to the 12v battery that gave enough power to set tow mode.

The SC diagnosis was "the 12v support to BMS to be at fault due to a lack of tension on wiring terminal". I guess that means a loose connection. 12v battery and 250A inline fuse were replaced and it's been fine since.
 

computerchuck

Supporting Member
Apr 20, 2017
324
1,249
Utah
I had a very similar incident with my P90D. Unbeknownst to me, because of deep dips going in and out of high angled parking lots, I had developed a small leak in my coolant system near the very front of the car where the grill would be on an ICE vehicle. When things got hot, it forced me to pull over and stop the car. After 20 or 30 min, it will let you go again after things cooled off.
 

bookiepilot69

Member
Aug 26, 2018
59
66
Sun Lakes Az
Any info on your battery level when you lost power?

Yeah, still had over 100 miles in the tank. What eventually died was the aux battery, as we sat off the road. Next time I'll try to conserve it by turning a/c off etc. And, as I understand it, the main battery keeps the aux battery charged so it would appear that the malfunction severed the connection between the 2 batteries.
 

bookiepilot69

Member
Aug 26, 2018
59
66
Sun Lakes Az
I had a similar problem in April. Several messages "car needs service, pull over safely", then "Power reduced, vehicle systems shutting down". Fortunately it was parked at home at the time, about to drive to work. The roadside assistance person connected jump leads to the 12v battery that gave enough power to set tow mode.

The SC diagnosis was "the 12v support to BMS to be at fault due to a lack of tension on wiring terminal". I guess that means a loose connection. 12v battery and 250A inline fuse were replaced and it's been fine since.

Very interesting. I just got a text that parts have been ordered though, so I'm guessing it's something more than "loose". Still no live, verbal communication though so I just don't know.
 

Saghost

Well-Known Member
Oct 9, 2013
8,217
7,004
Delaware
Yeah, still had over 100 miles in the tank. What eventually died was the aux battery, as we sat off the road. Next time I'll try to conserve it by turning a/c off etc. And, as I understand it, the main battery keeps the aux battery charged so it would appear that the malfunction severed the connection between the 2 batteries.

Most likely whatever initial event occurred caused the car to open the contactors on the main pack, which stops all high voltage power in the car including to the DC-DC converter that's the equivalent of the alternator and the air conditioning compressor.
 

bookiepilot69

Member
Aug 26, 2018
59
66
Sun Lakes Az
Most likely whatever initial event occurred caused the car to open the contactors on the main pack, which stops all high voltage power in the car including to the DC-DC converter that's the equivalent of the alternator and the air conditioning compressor.

Sounds logical. A text from the SC this evening promised a call tomorrow morning so I'll hopefully know more soon.
 

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