Valis
Member
Yes, multiple. It floods the whole compartment.So back to the center console light for a second, is there supposed to be a light in the very bottom bin too?
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Yes, multiple. It floods the whole compartment.So back to the center console light for a second, is there supposed to be a light in the very bottom bin too?
Just because your phone is seeing the car (via bluetooth) it will not keep the car awake or stop it from locking. The car can triangulate your distance and won’t unlock unless you are pretty darn close. If it’s not unlocking from in the house it should sleep fine. On Model 3 sometime the car would not unlock if the phone was in my back pocket but it would in my front pocket. That’s how close it wants to see you.ok, wanted to make sure I was not complaining about something my car does not have. Today at delivery when I brought it up to my SA they couldn't understand WHY I expected a light in there??? IDK, I love the cars, but the people I wonder about sometimes. I think they mean well, but I feel you should know the cars (or any product for that matter) that you are selling.
So far I have had multiple "USB too small errors", a "power assisted steering degraded" error ,and the door handles do not auto present.
BTW, they don't have any fobs in stock so Im using my phone but I don't think the car will sleep because everywhere in my house, my phone is connected to the car.
On that note...
I was able to pair my wife's spare M3 fob to the S and everything works EXCEPT it will not unlock when I walk up. I have to pull the fob out and actually push the top of it to get the car to unlock.
That makes me want to try to buy a MS fob from Ebay and see if it will work on the Plaid...anyone tried that yet?
FWIW, I like the fobs as my key for some reason.
Thanks for that info. Makes since now that I think about it. My wife's 3 sleeps fine and she has been using her phone since she got the car 2 years ago.Just because your phone is seeing the car (via bluetooth) it will not keep the car awake or stop it from locking. The car can triangulate your distance and won’t unlock unless you are pretty darn close. If it’s not unlocking from in the house it should sleep fine. On Model 3 sometime the car would not unlock if the phone was in my back pocket but it would in my front pocket. That’s how close it wants to see you.
If you do need the car to lock on walk away that distance is quite a bit further, like 15-20 ft.
Our garage was under the house but adjacent to the end of the house and the bedroom was a level above and adjacent. So pretty close. Probably 25ft from night stand. Phone would see it, but it locked and slept fine.
That was my thinking too. With my OCD certain things drive my crazy when they are misaligned but after admitting it is an optical illusion I try to stay calm. Another example is the T logo in the back. To me it seems slightly off centered. I keep on thinking when I am driving I am not looking at it....This. I think it is an optical illusion / design.
That was a problem on my Raven X. It was not hard to close (partly because it was powered). But it created a gap between the window seal on the top of the Door panel and glass when the door shut because it was pushing on the glass. This let in a lot of noise. I adjusted it myself.Getting closer to a fix for the passenger door being hard to close. The angle of the glass on my car is too steep, causing the glass to push up against the top seal too strongly. If this were a wheel, I'd call it excessive negative camber angle. A mobile service tech said that angle is adjustable. So, I'm hoping mobile service next week can adjust mine and make the door reasonable to close. It's fine with the window open, so the problem is with the glass.
The front passenger window on the refresh S seems to be terrible on all the cars. Everyone seems to complain about how hard it is to close the passenger door. Not sure what's wrong with the manufacturing, but the initial adjustments or installation is way off.That was a problem on my Raven X. It was not hard to close (partly because it was powered). But it created a gap between the window seal on the top of the Door panel and glass when the door shut because it was pushing on the glass. This let in a lot of noise. I adjusted it myself.
Good catch.
I suspect a LOT of windows, on all vintages and models, are NOT optimally adjusted. It's almost as critical as camber on your wheel. Too much or too little causes all sorts of issues.
The front passenger window on the refresh S seems to be terrible on all the cars. Everyone seems to complain about how hard it is to close the passenger door. Not sure what's wrong with the manufacturing, but the initial adjustments or installation is way off.
After having my model s a month and a half I thought I would followup with the build quality issues that have come up since the initial delivery:
- Front drivers side fender is making contact the the mirror frame when door is closed. This creates a weird rattle/squeak that sounds like it's coming from inside the car but it is actually this.
- Windshield wipers occasionally make a weird rubbing/creaking noise as they operate
- When going over uneven surfaces (like angled driveway) there is creaking coming from the rear of the car as if the car is flexing and creating a creak
- As mentioned above, passenger side front door is difficult to close (all the other doors are fine)
Here were my delivery day issues as well:
- Loose particles in main driver display between lens and screen (not touchscreen)
- Loose seat material on both front seats
- Manufacturing adhesive on rear door cards that won't come off
- Rear PPF piece on passenger side has bubbles under it and also rough edges that collect a lot of dirt
I've got the same plasticy creak coming from the driver's rear side of the car.
Also, I've tried to get them to fix the passenger door three times now. They keep getting it wrong.
This is likely to be a "problem" going forward, as Munro showed that they actually pump HVAC air between the screen and front "glass" to ensure it doesn't fog up. So I would expect dust to get in there. i.e. it is working as designed.- Loose particles in main driver display between lens and screen (not touchscreen)
Yeah, it happens over slow bumps. It started after about 2k miles.Does it seem like it's related to the car flexing too? Like going up a ramp at an angle or speed bump?
this was fixed by a a service center when i first got car. that’s what they ended up doing. adjusting glass. why this is common is weird to me. i did post the fix somewhere in this thread or another thread. it shuts about 80-85% better.Getting closer to a fix for the passenger door being hard to close. The angle of the glass on my car is too steep, causing the glass to push up against the top seal too strongly. If this were a wheel, I'd call it excessive negative camber angle. A mobile service tech said that angle is adjustable. So, I'm hoping mobile service next week can adjust mine and make the door reasonable to close. It's fine with the window open, so the problem is with the glass.
It is obvious that the fixture they are using to build the front passenger door is mis-calibrated. (Or the people building that door are doing it wrong, which seems unlikely that they only build that one door.)this was fixed by a a service center when i first got car. that’s what they ended up doing. adjusting glass. why this is common is weird to me.
right. he praised the model Y design of that same part. too bad they didn’t have time to fit it on the S.It is obvious that the fixture they are using to build the front passenger door is mis-calibrated. (Or the people building that door are doing it wrong, which seems unlikely that they only build that one door.)
I don't know how they haven't figured out to adjust that fixture already to resolve this problem at the factory in all of the many changes they make every week. (Having to correctly adjust the window regulator is one of the things that Sandy Munro really disliked about the current Model S door design.)
Does anyone have a rattle that sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side dash area? happens when you go above 25 mph. maybe it’s a loose plastic fuxture in frunk where wind may be getting in there and rattling the plastic? drives me insane.
I've got rattles and creaks all over the car! Worse than my 2018 model 3.Does anyone have a rattle that sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side dash area? happens when you go above 25 mph. maybe it’s a loose plastic fuxture in frunk where wind may be getting in there and rattling the plastic? drives me insane.
I've got rattles and creaks all over the car! Worse than my 2018 model 3.