2023 RHD Model 3 RW - accessing power from frunk Li-Ion battery for auto frunk.

[lotech]

I have a 2023 Model 3 and was attempting to install the Satonic Auto Frunk kit. It all install easily enough but I can't seem to get any juice to the ECU.
My model has the new lithium battery and an annoying new pillar to tap on to instead of a bolt. I've fashioned a bolt and nut combo to get the power line to doing something but not having much luck. All the other images or video of any 3rd party frunk system shows the older battery or a different design for the Lion battery to tap on to.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I am in email communication with Satonic supply but they say 'try method b' without explaining what the hell method b actually is.

 

[Ernest H]

I did something similar last year but less elegant. The Li battery is effectively the same barring higher voltage. Can you confirm if you are indeed getting 15v through the line via multimeter (or an old school car bulb)? If you are but the frunk ECU still doesn't power up, probably something wrong with it.

 

[lotech]

Thanks. That’s the sort of answer I was looking for. Unfortunately no multi meter around willl borrow a multimeter next week. So far Satonic have replied within a few hours - hopefully I’ll hear back from them on Monday.

 

[lotech]

Still battling - it seems the li-ion battery isn't putting out regular voltage? Is there another place to possible tap off?

 

[Ernest H]

Still battling - it seems the li-ion battery isn't putting out regular voltage? Is there another place to possible tap off?

The other reliable constant-12V is the ciggy lighter all the way in the armrest. But if you're not getting constant / consistent power then your ciggy won't neither. So if you just use old school car lightbulb and connects to the battery, does it light up? Multimeter readings?

 

[lotech]

The post is reporting 0.0V with a multimeter.
There not really documentation for any type of modding using this newer post. I think I've only spotted photos a couple of times. 16V Lit-Ion Battery
Going all the way to the glove compartment would suck.

 

[Ernest H]

The post is reporting 0.0V with a multimeter.
There not really documentation for any type of modding using this newer post. I think I've only spotted photos a couple of times. 16V Lit-Ion Battery
Going all the way to the glove compartment would suck.

0.0??!?! I've not seen for a long time, a car battery at zero let alone below 10v (ICE included). if your car is moving / starting then your battery is certainly fine (check for warnings on screen). I'd think the contact for +ve and GND isn't done right. The metal post on the battery (the silvery covered by the red cap is just another electricity conductor and nothing else. If your multimeter isn't returning anything certainly the problem is conductivity.

 

[stopcrazypp]

The post is reporting 0.0V with a multimeter.
There not really documentation for any type of modding using this newer post. I think I've only spotted photos a couple of times. 16V Lit-Ion Battery
Going all the way to the glove compartment would suck.

Check if multimeter is set to DC and the range is correct (20V or 200V setting). If that is not the issue, you most likely have not connected to the actual terminals, you would have to figure out where the terminals are.

 

[Ernest H]

This was a picture I took April 2022, was testing the frunk kit from EVOffer (and still working to date). Have since made it a lot neater than wrapping wire around it.

 

[lotech]

Thanks all. I had an electrical engineer friend confirm that there IS 15.5v on that post. I’m not sure what brain fart gave me zero. I’m going to assume it’s a faulty ecu and see what Satronic says.

 

[Ernest H]

Good to hear.

 

[Randy-12]

Thanks all. I had an electrical engineer friend confirm that there IS 15.5v on that post. I’m not sure what brain fart gave me zero. I’m going to assume it’s a faulty ecu and see what Satronic says.

Make sure that it is properly grounded and if it has a fuse on the line that it is not a dud.

 

[lotech]

Update - finally had some time (and sun) to look at this - my voltage issue was definitely operator error and that post is indeed giving 15.5V.
The problem seems to be in the next step of the cable linking to the breakout cable with the fuse - 15.5V in - 0v out. Fuse looks fine and probing the connectors in that plug are also giving 0v. Hopefully was all just a faulty power cable. Awaiting Satronoics reply.

 

[lotech]

Final(?) update - so the inline fuse cable was faulty. Satronic have gone completely silent in helping me so decided to go buy an inline fuse and chop up the supplied cable - and what do you know - it works! Still need to work on getting the bonnet closing flush but at least it actually opens and closes.

Although Satronic got back to me promptly at the start of the install and diagnosed that the power cable could be the problem - they just never helped much more and certainly just said 'we'll send you a $2 cable and see if it works' which would have solved the problem and I would have been happy 2 months ago.

 

[Ernest H]

Final(?) update - so the inline fuse cable was faulty. Satronic have gone completely silent in helping me so decided to go buy an inline fuse and chop up the supplied cable - and what do you know - it works! Still need to work on getting the bonnet closing flush but at least it actually opens and closes.

Although Satronic got back to me promptly at the start of the install and diagnosed that the power cable could be the problem - they just never helped much more and certainly just said 'we'll send you a $2 cable and see if it works' which would have solved the problem and I would have been happy 2 months ago.

Damn... That took a while. . Glad you're at the end of it. Hope you finally get to use the frunk properly.

 

[St3phen]

Final(?) update - so the inline fuse cable was faulty. Satronic have gone completely silent in helping me so decided to go buy an inline fuse and chop up the supplied cable - and what do you know - it works! Still need to work on getting the bonnet closing flush but at least it actually opens and closes.

Although Satronic got back to me promptly at the start of the install and diagnosed that the power cable could be the problem - they just never helped much more and certainly just said 'we'll send you a $2 cable and see if it works' which would have solved the problem and I would have been happy 2 months ago.

Is your install still working and are you happy with it? Looking at getting one for my Model Y with the same 15.5 LV battery

 

[lotech]

It's been running fine once I got some power to it. The biggest pain now is getting the clip inside the frunk to be perfectly aligned - the bonnet closes but is slightly higher on the right side. Installer error I guess.
I modelled up a new cover for the positive terminal too Printables