Added LED lights to frunk! But switched stop working ?

[Kurosaki15]

Just wanted to add to this discussion - I bought a Satonic frunk opener (V6) for my MY and it came with a free LED light strip. I too had the button failure when the light was connected. Cutting the negative wire from the LED light and grounding it to the frunk latch mechanism fixed the issue - internal frunk emergency open button and LED ight both work now. Thank you for helping out - Satonic's tech reply was " the frunk led is gift , For some cars , it is like that"

I got the frunk opener for my Model 3.
Did the cabling you get look like this?
I tried fitting this tonight, I put the grounding ring on by hand onto the GND point shown on their packaging as I wanted to test before loosening the bracket to fit it. Had no luck getting the switch to work so I stopped after that.

 

[FMinMI]

I got the frunk opener for my Model 3.
Did the cabling you get look like this?
I tried fitting this tonight, I put the grounding ring on by hand onto the GND point shown on their packaging as I wanted to test before loosening the bracket to fit it. Had no luck getting the switch to work so I stopped after that.

Yes - I got the same. What I did was cut the black/negative wire coming from the red/black pair, cut off that ground wire with the "O" connector completely, then added it to the black wire I cut (on the side going to the white plastic connector) and grounded it to the mounting bolt of the latch assembly. The other end of that black/negative wire (going to the 'harness') is not used so cut that line as far down as you want to make the 'new' black/negative wire as long as possible. Do the same thing with the ground wire (I did tape up each of the cut wires separately even though it shouldn't matter with both being a ground). This worked on my MY and I would assume it would work on the M3 as well. Good luck.

 

[Kurosaki15]

Thanks for the response! I definately missed it since I don't frequent here enough. Hopefully I'll be able to give it a try in the coming week!

Yes - I got the same. What I did was cut the black/negative wire coming from the red/black pair, cut off that ground wire with the "O" connector completely, then added it to the black wire I cut (on the side going to the white plastic connector) and grounded it to the mounting bolt of the latch assembly. The other end of that black/negative wire (going to the 'harness') is not used so cut that line as far down as you want to make the 'new' black/negative wire as long as possible. Do the same thing with the ground wire (I did tape up each of the cut wires separately even though it shouldn't matter with both being a ground). This worked on my MY and I would assume it would work on the M3 as well. Good luck.

 

[GUP-Y]

Yes - I got the same. What I did was cut the black/negative wire coming from the red/black pair, cut off that ground wire with the "O" connector completely, then added it to the black wire I cut (on the side going to the white plastic connector) and grounded it to the mounting bolt of the latch assembly. The other end of that black/negative wire (going to the 'harness') is not used so cut that line as far down as you want to make the 'new' black/negative wire as long as possible. Do the same thing with the ground wire (I did tape up each of the cut wires separately even though it shouldn't matter with both being a ground). This worked on my MY and I would assume it would work on the M3 as well. Good luck.

I second this method. I too had to lengthen the ground cable with the O connector for it to reach the actual grounding point near the bottom of either tower strut. I tested a few points using a multimeter around the latch and while it showed that the latch bolts function as a ground, hooking the connector there just didn't work. So, I had to go straight to the one near the strut tower. Had to add about 3 feet of 18 awg wiring to reach it.

 

[Midnightsun]

Had a led strip kit lying around for since spring which I finally installed it this morning. Had the same issue with frunk emergency button no longer functioning to open the frunk. My kit did not have a fancy push in fitting as shown in the pictures, just 2 wires that needed to be hooked up to the grey and black wires of the emergency button wiring. Bottom line is the ground wire from the kit (usually black) needs to be connected to chasis ground and not the ground wire of the emergency switch.

 

[asian_xl]

so the conclusion is black wire to the chassis will solve the issue with power frunk not lighting up / too dim?

 

[FMinMI]

so the conclusion is black wire to the chassis will solve the issue with power frunk not lighting up / too dim?

That worked for me... (see above)