Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

After market audio for Tesla Model S - Standard Audio

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Looking at after market audio options and have gone through many posts reading about Reuss, NVX, and BA Design, and and LH.

I am looking for pros/cons of each system though and what would be best for my profile. I am not an audiophile, I do not have FLAC files, but feel the standard audio on my 2016 S 85d, CPO (black nose type) is very flat.
Its definitely super flat when EQ is 0-0-0-0 and then I changed EQ to 5.5, 3,0,3,6 and it was better, but still doesn't feel like my Cadillac ATS.

I used to have Cadillac ATS 2013 with Bose Audio and the Tesla system is just bad compared to that one.
I want to at least have Bose Experience.

My mornings I listen to slacker, and tune in, and a lot of CNBC (yes talk radio, listen to business and stocks).

I am thinking I just need a Sub, and Amp and connect to current speakers and that might be fine.
I was looking at the:
NVX Powered BOOST Kit for 2012 and Up Tesla Model S (PBK-TSLAS-VCW104)

Would this be enough to make the audio experience I am looking for?
Reuss at first glance appears to be a lot of money.
Ideally I'd like to spend like 1500 to 2k -- maybe Reuss at 3k is okay, but not sure.
I am not the audiophile and dont listen to flac USB, I'm more the typical audio person and listen to lots of talk radio like CNBC. I also really wish had XM I had that in my Cadillac and liked it a lot.

I also look at LH and BA Design.
Nxt vs BA Design ? What would you choose?
I was learning towards NXT cause BA design seems to also have mixed reviews.

Would you suggest another setup, or car installer? I am in Arizona and do not have the luxury of all the CA shops.
If you suggest installer in Arizona I can go see them as well.
Or suggest other sub/amp combos. I am thinking I just need the sub / amp and plugin into existing speakers.
I can always upgrade other speakers later if needed.

Thanks.
 
This may not be exactly what you are looking for but I just swapped out the standard front door speakers with the speakers from a premium sound car. There was a noticeable difference in mid and low frequency response without making it muddy and it was completely bolt in with no modifications needed.
 
I'm debating doing this mod too. I recently picked up a CPO P85D and the audio really is pretty bad. The sound in my VW GTI is way better.

I've been looking at the BA system as it seems pretty good bang for the buck. But if I can get better sound without taking apart half the car I'd definitely prefer that.

What premium speakers did you use? How much did they cost?
 
Did you feel premium speakers was sufficient to change the listening experience?
Why did you not choose to get a sub?
A lot of what I read on posts online, was people saying the changed the speakers only and didn't notice a difference.
 
I went to audio express a chain audio store and listened to subs amps speakers and found I don’t think I was just sub and amp . I am looking for upgrade in mids and highs not so much the lows .

I found blam 6 inch with tweeter those sounded really nice but they will require amp , and dsp plus tuning .
All said and done will cost 2500 for speakers amp dsp etc.


What are some alternatives to this?
 
Eff it I am going Reuss. Called him today put 1500 down and now a couple month wait to get to Arizona . Calling reuss was really nice he really sold me on the system just talking about the engineering and expertise that go in the system . I would say if you still on the fence just close your eyes and take the leap. Future you can always pay for it . System level 2 — 4K out the door with lifetime warranty .
 
I saw your thread when you posted it, and got my NVX sub installed since then in my base system, and was meaning to post an update in your thread once I got my sub installed.

I'm really happy with the NVX sub. ~$880 from EVSmotors + ~$280 install (which I think was a great deal). The output is pretty solid for a single 10" woofer, and it looks like an OEM install. I also upgraded my front door speakers earlier for something like $350, and did the install myself, but making brackets was a huge pain (should have hired it out) since I used ~8" speakers. I'm pretty confident for ~$1500, my system sounds better than the premium audio system (at least there's a lot more bass available, which I appreciate). I'd also guess that the Reuss system sounds better than mine based on what I know about their system, so I think you'll be happy either way.
 
I did a custom install on my standard sound. Depending on what you choose you can keep the cost within $3000.
To get the best sound, at the minimum you will have to 1. Add a sub 2. add DSP processor. Simply swapping out the speakers won't be optimal as there is bulit in EQ/tuning that cannot be overridden or disabled.

My post here: Upgrading standard sound on Model S and using Chromecast
How do you compare going custom to doing reus they do t do dsp only crossovers
 
How do you compare going custom to doing reus they do t do dsp only crossovers
Probably a similar base level end result, but with DSP you can tune it later based on preference, or if you make further changes. For example I have 4 pre-programmed modes in DSP and I can switch them over bluetooth on an app.

What I learned in my custom installation project, was that improving the acoustic quality of the cabin is as important as upgrading the kit, for the overall quality of the sound.

Tesla interior panels are terribly resonant by default and have quite a bit of hollow space in them. Some of the best results were achieved by treating the panels and metal sheets behind them with alubutyl (like silentcoat) and closed rubber cell and/or acoustic foam sheets.

Biggest audible results come from treating front doors (because most of the bass and resonance originates from them). And if you have subwoofer, you should treat the trunk lid as well (be careful not to add much weight). There is a surprisingly big cavity in the back panel of trunk lid, and if you can fill it with more padding (at least face lift has some thinsulate in it), the subwoofer will sound much, much less distorted. I was able to add 1/5 more volume on sub after doing the treatment. Treating the dash is also a good idea, but a lot of work. There's plenty of cavity to dampen and you can also felt tape all touching surfaces to pre-empt rattles forever.

Materials for the acoustic treatment cost like 10% of the audio gear, so it is easily the best single improvement. It has some effect on road noise as well, so it's a double win. It also adds "unexplainable" balmy quality feeling to the cabin, since everything you touch is a bit more solid.

Audio shops may do at least a basic level treatment for a reasonable price, but I started from wrapping the wood panels and got totally carried away... it's a hobby then.
 
Last edited:
  • Disagree
Reactions: duybile
How do you compare going custom to doing reus they do t do dsp only crossovers

I never tried Reus so I cannot compare directly. But with DSP and the audio tuned to my preference, and with components I chose, I feel what I have will likely come out on top WRT my preferences though your mileage may vary.

Audio inside a car is inherently compromised for multiple reasons: 1. There is no way to completely eliminate road/wind noise and it will impact acoustics and will vary based on driving speed and conditions. This will impact base most noticeably and you would want a knob to control base. It will also impact our ability to discern details. 2. As @Saimaannorppa mentions, the acoustic space within car is not ideal for audio and one can spend a lot of money 'fixing' it. At the end it is never going to sound as good as a good set of speakers in a decently treated room that would likely cost less.

Taking the above two factors in mind, going from the 'Standard' sound to something that adds a Sub with a decent crossover will give you the first jump that is the best bang for your buck. A second jump can be had by adding a DSP processor and possibly replacing the speakers in the front door and the tweeters in the A pillar. If you want to improve sound beyond this, then I would consider treatment.

One of the reasons I did not opt for Reus is because I wanted the ability to use my own streaming source (Tidal/Quobuz or local music on my phone). I was not happy with Bluetooth quality. If you do not plan to bring in your own music, Adding a Sub + crossover or Reus may be simpler options for you.

Choosing between the two will depend on how much you care about the quality of what you hear and also what you listen to.

Edit: Just saw your post about you looking for improvement in highs and mids as well not just the low end. In which case a custom install would give you the most flexibility.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Saimaannorppa
Eff it I am going Reuss. Called him today put 1500 down and now a couple month wait to get to Arizona . Calling reuss was really nice he really sold me on the system just talking about the engineering and expertise that go in the system . I would say if you still on the fence just close your eyes and take the leap. Future you can always pay for it . System level 2 — 4K out the door with lifetime warranty .


blueice89 there must be a bug going around. I had been doing just fine with my 2017 75D until I took it in on Monday for its 3rd annual maintenance. I was given a 100D with premium audio and now all of a sudden my sound system is inadequate. I've researched a couple of shops here in Dallas/Ft Worth area but nothing has just jumped out at me. I've read many reviews about Reuss systems but their website doesn't provide a lot of detail. I know that they will travel (cost to the customer) to your location and cost could be offset by multiple installs but I've been reluctant to pull the trigger.

Do you mind sharing what will be included with your system?
 
I purchased a CPO 2017 90D model with standard audio. I was previously driving AUDI _A6 and I really loved the Bose audio system. I was quite upset with Tesla model s. I tried messing around with EQ setting by increasing the bass mids and the treble by 4dB and that didn’t make a huge difference. Recently I tried the EQ setting where I increased the BASS to max of 12dB and Mids/High to 10dB I saw a big change and what surprised me is that the distortion due to such high BASS setting was unnoticed. I am usually against setting bass EQ to max due to high distortion but I was surprised with their audio...I am quite happy with the loudness and a also bass now :)