Aftermarker Sound Upgrade of 3 Front 4" speakers

[RWAudio]

RW,
I was trying to wire up the switched 12 and constant 12v today to a relay.
For the switched 12v, I am using a brown 12v wire that is coming out of the backseat air vents. For the constant 12v, I am splicing the cigarette lighter.

Strangely, the yellow switched 12v (+) wire turns into a black wire. I've never seen a black wire as (+). When testing with multimeter, black is (+). Picture attached for clarification.

Are you using another option for the the 12volts?

Hey, I very deliberately chose an amp that uses signal turn on vs remote turn on so that I wouldn't need to play with switched 12v in any form. Some people have played with this, but given the constant software updates, I didn't know if tomorrow they might change how something works and the behavior might change.

What are you using these 12v signals for?

 

[Zangief1977]

Hey, I very deliberately chose an amp that uses signal turn on vs remote turn on so that I wouldn't need to play with switched 12v in any form. Some people have played with this, but given the constant software updates, I didn't know if tomorrow they might change how something works and the behavior might change.

What are you using these 12v signals for?

I have the same amp as you. 500.1. It works without 12v remote?! No way, that would make my life easier.
I was looking for 12v for remote.

 

[RWAudio]

I have the same amp as you. 500.1. It works without 12v remote?! No way, that would make my life easier.
I was looking for 12v for remote.

Yep, turn on "DC Offset" near the signal input plug.

 

[Zangief1977]

Yep, turn on "DC Offset" near the signal input plug.

View attachment 1016407

Are you using both right and left channels for the subwoofer input? Will it make any difference since the subwoofer is mono?

 

[Icon1]

Alpine just came out with a full system retrofit for Model 3 & Y, RWD system and full system with subwoofer and amp. Anyone had the opportunity look into this and their thoughts?

 

[DomDeWild]

$2,999.95 at Crutchfield. It seems it does not fit M3 without rear deck speakers, it has a wiring harness similar to Hansshow. 3 bills is a lot, I'll pass.

 

[RWAudio]

@Zangief1977 I'm going to use one channel as a turn on device for the amp, but yes the high level inputs going into the Kicker amp are left and right door woofers.

 

[Zangief1977]

@RWAudio , I got the stock sub/stock enclosure with Kicker 500.1 set up in my RWD finally as a temporary solution. I'm currently only using left channel as the high level signal input. The DC offset is working great as you said it would. Focal and Infinity speakers were installed a while back. I'm using your 3d printed amp mount and will change my door woofers 3d printed mounts to your design soon (I like your one piece design much better than the one I'm currently using).

I was wondering if you remember where you set your Hi and Lo pass filters? Also, is the Key Gain Matching/Key Auto Setup worth going through?

Thanks. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

 

[RWAudio]

@RWAudio , I got the stock sub/stock enclosure with Kicker 500.1 set up in my RWD finally as a temporary solution. I'm currently only using left channel as the high level signal input. The DC offset is working great as you said it would. Focal and Infinity speakers were installed a while back. I'm using your 3d printed amp mount and will change my door woofers 3d printed mounts to your design soon (I like your one piece design much better than the one I'm currently using).

I was wondering if you remember where you set your Hi and Lo pass filters? Also, is the Key Gain Matching/Key Auto Setup worth going through?

Thanks. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

Sounds like things are coming together nicely! Pictures are always great.

I ended up in the ballpark of 10-11 O'clock on the high pass, and 12 O'clock on the low pass. Going higher on the lowpass sometimes sounded better but sometimes caused more resonance in the car. I opted to sacrifice some of the punchier bass for less rattles. I would like to do the key gain matching, however it says you need to mute the rest of the speakers, in the Tesla there really isn't a way to do that while still providing the proper signal to the amp.

 

[Zangief1977]

I'm going to reprint the amp mount too. It's currently pla.

 

[RWAudio]

I'm going to reprint the amp mount too. It's currently pla. View attachment 1020115

Looks good! Print it in ABS/ASA if you can, and make sure you print it in the same orientation it goes in the car, don't print it with the logo down as the arms could break on the layer lines.

 

[Zangief1977]

@RWAudio This is probably a dumb question but would you suspect a significant improvement if upgrading the stock sub to the Kicker L7t8? The stock sub with 500.1 sounds pretty decent right now.

 

[RWAudio]

@RWAudio This is probably a dumb question but would you suspect a significant improvement if upgrading the stock sub to the Kicker L7t8? The stock sub with 500.1 sounds pretty decent right now.

The stock sub is designed to work perfectly in that enclosure, so as far as sound it's probably good, the Kicker amp is likely better than the Tesla amp so you're probably a bit better than a stock premium system now. The L7T8 is likely just going to give you more output, and subjectively better low bass output so if you are happy with the amount of bass, keep the stock woofer and save your $$.

 

[Zangief1977]

I did not get tweeters with my Focal ISU200. Are there any alternatives folks here have tried and were happy with?

 

[PlanetExpress]

I am finally done with my DSP and subwoofer install! Took me waaaaaaay longer than I would have imagined. Sound deadener in the doors and trunk, replaced dash and front door speakers, 1100w amp and 10" sub in the subtrunk. DSP runs the tweeters, dash, front door, and sends signal to the sub amp, all ran active. Tuned carefully with REW and a calibrated mic, and I am VERY happy with the results. So nice to be done, and now I can just tinker and experiment with some different tunes. The only thing I'm missing is a slight drop in levels around 80hz where my sub and midbass cross, but the stock door woofers exceled in that range so I'm thinking about using my remaining DSP channel to run them in parallel installed in the rear deck. I'll also probably replace the stock tweeters. They are better than no tweeters, but 2K sounded crummy so I had to cross them higher. Luckily the coaxials in the dash were able to take over up to 3K. The DSP amp is under the center console, but it gets super hot so I'll be looking for a way to run wires through the firewall and put it in the frunk to have some more air.

 

[FatM3]

I am finally done with my DSP and subwoofer install! Took me waaaaaaay longer than I would have imagined. Sound deadener in the doors and trunk, replaced dash and front door speakers, 1100w amp and 10" sub in the subtrunk. DSP runs the tweeters, dash, front door, and sends signal to the sub amp, all ran active. Tuned carefully with REW and a calibrated mic, and I am VERY happy with the results. So nice to be done, and now I can just tinker and experiment with some different tunes. The only thing I'm missing is a slight drop in levels around 80hz where my sub and midbass cross, but the stock door woofers exceled in that range so I'm thinking about using my remaining DSP channel to run them in parallel installed in the rear deck. I'll also probably replace the stock tweeters. They are better than no tweeters, but 2K sounded crummy so I had to cross them higher. Luckily the coaxials in the dash were able to take over up to 3K. The DSP amp is under the center console, but it gets super hot so I'll be looking for a way to run wires through the firewall and put it in the frunk to have some more air.

You can't tease us like that without pics!

 

[JomarR]

I am finally done with my DSP and subwoofer install! Took me waaaaaaay longer than I would have imagined. Sound deadener in the doors and trunk, replaced dash and front door speakers, 1100w amp and 10" sub in the subtrunk. DSP runs the tweeters, dash, front door, and sends signal to the sub amp, all ran active. Tuned carefully with REW and a calibrated mic, and I am VERY happy with the results. So nice to be done, and now I can just tinker and experiment with some different tunes. The only thing I'm missing is a slight drop in levels around 80hz where my sub and midbass cross, but the stock door woofers exceled in that range so I'm thinking about using my remaining DSP channel to run them in parallel installed in the rear deck. I'll also probably replace the stock tweeters. They are better than no tweeters, but 2K sounded crummy so I had to cross them higher. Luckily the coaxials in the dash were able to take over up to 3K. The DSP amp is under the center console, but it gets super hot so I'll be looking for a way to run wires through the firewall and put it in the frunk to have some more air.

Nice! Did you have to install the solenoid and resistor to eliminate the electrical power reduced error?

 

[RWAudio]

I am finally done with my DSP and subwoofer install! Took me waaaaaaay longer than I would have imagined. Sound deadener in the doors and trunk, replaced dash and front door speakers, 1100w amp and 10" sub in the subtrunk. DSP runs the tweeters, dash, front door, and sends signal to the sub amp, all ran active. Tuned carefully with REW and a calibrated mic, and I am VERY happy with the results. So nice to be done, and now I can just tinker and experiment with some different tunes. The only thing I'm missing is a slight drop in levels around 80hz where my sub and midbass cross, but the stock door woofers exceled in that range so I'm thinking about using my remaining DSP channel to run them in parallel installed in the rear deck. I'll also probably replace the stock tweeters. They are better than no tweeters, but 2K sounded crummy so I had to cross them higher. Luckily the coaxials in the dash were able to take over up to 3K. The DSP amp is under the center console, but it gets super hot so I'll be looking for a way to run wires through the firewall and put it in the frunk to have some more air.

Awesome!

With DSP you could try messing with the phase of various drivers to try and reduce your 80hz dip. Start by putting the sub out of phase with everything else, if that doesn't help put it back in phase then try the passenger door woofer out of phase, and try the sub out of phase, then both front woofers out of phase with the sub in/out of phase. You could try crossing the door woofers/subs a bit higher as the sub might not have the same null due to location. If it causes the bass to sound like it's completely behind you then at least you know adding woofers on the rear deck could help solve the problem.

 

[PlanetExpress]

Nice! Did you have to install the solenoid and resistor to eliminate the electrical power reduced error?

I haven't had an issue so far. I tried to set the sub amp gains by measuring AC voltage, but even at max gain never got to the calculated max. I left the amp gain at about 3/4 because 100% just seemed like asking for trouble. The other issue with the big draw when the amps capacitors charge up initially, I haven't had a problem there either. I do have the DSP sending the turn on signal to the sub amp, though, and have a 1 second delay set up before it outputs any audio. Maybe that helps?

 

[PlanetExpress]

Awesome!

With DSP you could try messing with the phase of various drivers to try and reduce your 80hz dip. Start by putting the sub out of phase with everything else, if that doesn't help put it back in phase then try the passenger door woofer out of phase, and try the sub out of phase, then both front woofers out of phase with the sub in/out of phase. You could try crossing the door woofers/subs a bit higher as the sub might not have the same null due to location. If it causes the bass to sound like it's completely behind you then at least you know adding woofers on the rear deck could help solve the problem.

Thanks, I did some more youtube research last night and realized that trying to fix the issue with more speakers is silly. I'll take some more measurements with everything running as tuned and narrow down the issue. Then I need to check the phasing and make sure it isn't causing a null. Might even be as simple as adjusting the crossover steepness.