Meant to post this on here as well after my install last month and completely forgot. I used a "well nut" too and no issues (my Jack nut came deformed too right out of the box so it went straight to the trash).
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Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
Bumping this back up. On my XLCA2, the maximize light never turns on when adjusting the bass dial. It only turns on when adjusting the main dial. Are you sure you didn’t mean Main? I am using the RCA outputs on the bass side.
Reply to myself. Make sure your remote bass knob on the LOC is turned all the way to the max.
my bad
cdub715
Member
Yeah I didn’t use the remote bass knob. Wanted everything to be seamless with no additional wiring. Yes turning the bass knob all the way up would solve your issue of maximizing the output from your LOC.Reply to myself. Make sure your remote bass knob on the LOC is turned all the way to the max.
I’ve since upgraded my set up to include a JBL DSP4086 so i’ve ditched my active LOC - feeding my signal directly from my new DSP(line driver) to my sub amp. Highly recommend if you’re looking to upgrade SQ and consolidate your hardware.
Added bonus for all of y’all following Travisllado’s blog post and getting on-screen errors from adding an aftermarket amp(s). Instead of adding a solid state relay + resistor, you could set the DSP to delay turn on by 12+ seconds in the software - essentially a soft-start. Error occurs when the car senses a significant voltage drop upon start up. I have all my turn-on signals wired to my DSP so all my aftermarket equipment powers on post 12s car start up. Great feature for those of you scared of 12V/turtle/VC_left errors.
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Really neat idea. I dropped a simple toggle switch by my seat that completes the turn-on circuit between the LOC and amp. Just turn it off every time I get out of the car. Your idea seems even more automated if you also want to amp other speakers. Maybe a 12V delay circuit could do the same thing.
I just read 24 pages of this thread and it answered a lot of my install questions but I have now seen 2 different diagrams showing to tap pre and post amp for the LOC. Which is the correct one?
It looks like pre taps into green/red/purple/brown on the harness/connector with 6 wires. And post taps into the same colors but in the harness/connector with 10 wires.
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Another thing I noticed being the only issue with this sub is it is underpowered.
The subwoofer is: NVX VSW104V2 10" 500 watt RMS 1000 watt Peak. 4 ohms.
The amp that the package comes with is:
NVX VADM1
• 180W x 1-Chan. @ 4 ohms
• 320W x 1-Chan. @ 2 ohms
• 500W x 1-Chan. @ 1 ohms
Wouldn't this suggest that the amplifier is incredibly underpowered in comparison since at 4 ohms this is only getting 180w. You could easily use something like NVX NDA102 which is:
• 310 watts x 1 channel @ 4 ohms
• 500 watts x 1 channel @ 2 ohms
• 750 watts x 1 channel @ 1 ohm
and still be under powering the sub, right?
It looks like pre taps into green/red/purple/brown on the harness/connector with 6 wires. And post taps into the same colors but in the harness/connector with 10 wires.
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Another thing I noticed being the only issue with this sub is it is underpowered.
The subwoofer is: NVX VSW104V2 10" 500 watt RMS 1000 watt Peak. 4 ohms.
The amp that the package comes with is:
NVX VADM1
• 180W x 1-Chan. @ 4 ohms
• 320W x 1-Chan. @ 2 ohms
• 500W x 1-Chan. @ 1 ohms
Wouldn't this suggest that the amplifier is incredibly underpowered in comparison since at 4 ohms this is only getting 180w. You could easily use something like NVX NDA102 which is:
• 310 watts x 1 channel @ 4 ohms
• 500 watts x 1 channel @ 2 ohms
• 750 watts x 1 channel @ 1 ohm
and still be under powering the sub, right?
You are right but I think there might be a positive correlation between higher power amps and potentially creating fault codes. I'm guessing NVX chose this lower power amp to minimize the chance of fault codes.
I called NVX and got someone on the phone, the person was very helpful in explaining all the power stuff. That's a one size fits all type solution where you can definitely use the NDA102 and he suggested it to get more power while still being a pretty safe bet for the subwoofer.
One thing I did not realize or I overlooked until we talked was it's a dual 4-ohm sub wired so that you are using the rating for 2 ohms.
I also noticed something interesting in the amp descriptions: "Soft start turn-on" From googling I found this:
"This Softstart project is employed to limit these destructive inrush currents by momentarily introducing a resistance between the power transformer’s primary winding and the mains supply, which, after a brief moment, is completely connected to the mains. This momentary delay is already enough to charge the filter caps and limit the inrush current draw."
I think this helps greatly and why many people don't have the issues when using NVX setups with codes. Not all units have this functionality.
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On the wiring, he said I would get an email for the wiring since it is no longer on the site anywhere. But in general he said on most cars you want to go pre-amp for the wiring when working with cars that have built in amplifiers.
One thing I did not realize or I overlooked until we talked was it's a dual 4-ohm sub wired so that you are using the rating for 2 ohms.
I also noticed something interesting in the amp descriptions: "Soft start turn-on" From googling I found this:
"This Softstart project is employed to limit these destructive inrush currents by momentarily introducing a resistance between the power transformer’s primary winding and the mains supply, which, after a brief moment, is completely connected to the mains. This momentary delay is already enough to charge the filter caps and limit the inrush current draw."
I think this helps greatly and why many people don't have the issues when using NVX setups with codes. Not all units have this functionality.
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On the wiring, he said I would get an email for the wiring since it is no longer on the site anywhere. But in general he said on most cars you want to go pre-amp for the wiring when working with cars that have built in amplifiers.
I am 99.9% sure you need to grab this signal post-amp. Most grab the subwoofer wires coming out of the amp. In fact, I don’t even know if there is a solution that can grab signal pre-amp.
If there is one, I would be interested in trying.
Yes, a dual 4-ohm in parallel will present a 2 ohm load to the amp. Add the other side wired in parallel and you will present a 1 ohm load to the amp. Good luck!
Ahhhh, thanks for the info. on the 1 ohm solution, I'll be doing the 2ohm setup.
On the wiring, I believe you are right to use post amp, I think I was confused which wires until I took things apart yesterday and there is only really that solution. Which is why the LOC that is used for the signal remote on in the setup can " Handles up to 30V (225 watts RMS)" and then cleans it up for the amp.
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It's all starting to come together now in my head. If I were to add a second amp in the future could I split the LOC RCA output there and run two rca pairs from it? As well as the remote line out being split?
On the wiring, I believe you are right to use post amp, I think I was confused which wires until I took things apart yesterday and there is only really that solution. Which is why the LOC that is used for the signal remote on in the setup can " Handles up to 30V (225 watts RMS)" and then cleans it up for the amp.
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It's all starting to come together now in my head. If I were to add a second amp in the future could I split the LOC RCA output there and run two rca pairs from it? As well as the remote line out being split?
If you are talking about running a second subwoofer amp, then I suggest just getting a larger and more powerful amp instead to run more subs.
If you are looking for a second amp to power other speakers in the vehicle, then it gets a bit more complicated. You will want to tap into full range wires vs subwoofer wires. Might want a different LOC, or even a DSP.
I've done a ton of digging to get this done for my SR+, and this post helped an immense amount. NVX removed like all wiring diagrams and helpful material from their site - I've been losing my mind.
I know I'm pinging you two years later, but genuinely dude thanks!
bo3bdar
Member
Anyone know why I might be testing for roughly 1 volt AC at the RCA output. Was trying to dial in my settings, but this is obscenely low. My voltmeter seems to measure elsewhere fine.
Nowhere near 25.2
It's not actually AC, it's an audio signal there, so the frequencies will be all over the map depending on what you are playing. Some voltmeters only look for 60Hz as being 'AC', so if your signal has low amplitude 60Hz audio that might do it. You might try playing a 60Hz sine wave as an experiment.
Thanks for this tip! It also turns out I was incorrectly measuing the voltage as well haha.
Propofoln
Member
Why doesn’t the NVX work in the Plaid? Really unhappy with the 2023 subwoofer. They nerfed the bass over the 2021 S plaid
Hello
Same problem here 2 years later. I have the same problem as you. No wiring diagram for the 21 model. And NVX will not provide me one . Have tried to calling them and sent mails. No Luck. Stupid when you have bought a rater expensive product from them but they do not follow it up for their customers. Guess you found out? Need help. Can you show some pictures or diagram? Would apreciate that a lot.
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