ratcityrain
Member
Not certain if normal, but I noticed that my amp was super hot yesterday even when it hadn't be used. Chalked it up to it being interior being over 100 degrees so thinking that was the problem
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Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio
- Thread starter tlr1000
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ratcityrain
Member
Yesterday I decided to re-tune the amp a little. I was solely focused on having the amp play 50hz and below. I also adjusted the gains on the audio settings to +8 because when set there, the door speakers and factory sub sound the best and I wanted this sub to compliment the rest of the system and play notes factory speakers have a harder time with. I think I'm off to a good start. Left the car torn apart so I could make micro adjustments as I listen to it more. Here is what I have the gains set at right now as a starting point.
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I can say, mine gets super hot too. Almost too hot to
touch it for longer time! But NVX says it has protection, so I expect it to not go up in smoke.
Interesting to see how y'all tuned your equipment! One thing I wonder is the Bass Knob. It doesn't do anything. I plugged it into the XLCA2. Should I try the Amp instead?
Edit: It's a little hard to tell what your gain settings are because it could be 180° read. Would you mind to clarify?
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ratcityrain
Member
I have attached an updated picture with some notes on current tune.
I am also using the bass knob attached to the VADM1 amp. This is actually much nicer addition because I can easily fine tune the sub so if I want more or less. I did notice that the bass knob is specific to the VADM1 and the XLCA2 so if it doesn't work, swap bass knobs.
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Ok, that's why. It was the wrong Knob. So the one with the little LED belongs to the XLCA2. Also very helpful drawings there.
MapledLeif
Member
I used the XLCA2 LOC with the boost kit that has audio signal sensing, and then outputs the remote turn on for the amp. It has been flawless with no audible sound of the amp turning on. I've read about issues with tapping into various places for the remote wire... sometimes what works now as a remote tap won't work after an update etc.
All,
Thank you for all the great info in this thread. I've been researching quite a bit and just got my NVX boot kit delivered today. Plan on doing the install this weekend!
For those who completed the install, did you just use the 16 gauge gray/blue wire that NVX provided to splice into the OEM subwoofer wiring? I can't find any documentation on what gauge wire is being used on the OEM sub wiring but I did see some people mention they used 16 gauge. Also curious if you used 16 gauge for the LOC power too.
Also, for those who did not install the amp in the same spot that NVX did on their install video, did you just create your own ground on the frame, or are there strategic places already available? Was kinda bummed that the ground wire NVX provides in the kit is only 3ft. Not too big of a deal if I can ground somewhere else though. (From prior car installs, I'd just find bare metal and bolt there. I'm guessing no different on a Tesla.) I might just mount the LOC and Amp to a small board and then mount that to the back of the rear-passenger side seat. That way I can fold it down to make adjustments, because I will forever be tweaking it. borderline OCD I guess
Would appreciate any insights that any of you are willing to share. Thanks!!
Thank you for all the great info in this thread. I've been researching quite a bit and just got my NVX boot kit delivered today. Plan on doing the install this weekend!
For those who completed the install, did you just use the 16 gauge gray/blue wire that NVX provided to splice into the OEM subwoofer wiring? I can't find any documentation on what gauge wire is being used on the OEM sub wiring but I did see some people mention they used 16 gauge. Also curious if you used 16 gauge for the LOC power too.
Also, for those who did not install the amp in the same spot that NVX did on their install video, did you just create your own ground on the frame, or are there strategic places already available? Was kinda bummed that the ground wire NVX provides in the kit is only 3ft. Not too big of a deal if I can ground somewhere else though. (From prior car installs, I'd just find bare metal and bolt there. I'm guessing no different on a Tesla.) I might just mount the LOC and Amp to a small board and then mount that to the back of the rear-passenger side seat. That way I can fold it down to make adjustments, because I will forever be tweaking it. borderline OCD I guess
Would appreciate any insights that any of you are willing to share. Thanks!!
I used smaller wire for the 12v and Ground on the OEM Plug connection. The big ones didn't fit into my T-Taps.
Then located everything in the lower trunk compartment and had to shorten all wires except for the Bass Knob of course.
Thanks! Is the 12v and Ground on the OEM subwoofer harness thicker than the wires going to the stock sub?
The cables on the Tesla Woofer are pretty standard. Not thick or anything. This Sub has just 80W Dual.
Anyways, did something crazy and ported my Sub-Enclosure from NVX. Holy crap, this thing is moving AIR!
I wonder where all this air went before. Well, this "sealed" box was never 100% sealed for me. Still have an air leak beside the speaker grill. But now with the port it doesn't matter. Also, the Woofer-Excursion went to an absolute minimum. So i can higher the gain before even coming close to the cover.
The bass is way more deep now, and it produces very low Hz. Makes the outer mirrors shake nicely. Of course it is less "punchy", but for that i have the RockfordFosgate P3SD4-8 on the opposite side. In fact it sounds like the sealed box with rear seats down. I'm glad i got the Bass Knob up in front lol
I used a pipe made of cardboard. It has 8cm outer and 7cm inner diameter. The length is around 35cm. At the end i glued a little "trumpet", and wrapped the whole thing in black duct tape for even more strength and to make it black.
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ratcityrain
Member
That's rather interesting. Didn't ever cross my mind to port it. How did you determine the port size/length? I don't even really know what the internal cu ft is for this sub.
Interesting idea on porting the box. I was going to ask them if they had any plans to do that. I just assumed the sub they were using wasn't tuned for it, but I take real-world testimonials any day. NICE.
BTW, thanks for the info @mattAUT - just finished the install. Will do cleanup and tuning tomorrow. I think I read somewhere that the Tesla sound system in the Model 3 does not do any bass roll off. Did you guys use the BASS X level at all? NVX said they did a slight boost, but that was its (for BASS X). Thinking of just setting everything to the minimum and slowly tweaking from there.
Oh, and can someone PELASE tell me how to have my stereo keep playing at normal volume when I get out of the car? So annoying that it attenuates when you get out and go to the back to tune the amp. The car is too smart for its own good sometimes.
BTW, thanks for the info @mattAUT - just finished the install. Will do cleanup and tuning tomorrow. I think I read somewhere that the Tesla sound system in the Model 3 does not do any bass roll off. Did you guys use the BASS X level at all? NVX said they did a slight boost, but that was its (for BASS X). Thinking of just setting everything to the minimum and slowly tweaking from there.
Oh, and can someone PELASE tell me how to have my stereo keep playing at normal volume when I get out of the car? So annoying that it attenuates when you get out and go to the back to tune the amp. The car is too smart for its own good sometimes.
My 2021 M3P sub wiring block is different than the NVX wiring diagram.
Where to tap for power looks obvious since there is a red next to the gray, but I’m not getting power to the XCLA2.
Also speaker colors aren’t mapping to NVX diagram.
Anyone solve this?
Where to tap for power looks obvious since there is a red next to the gray, but I’m not getting power to the XCLA2.
Also speaker colors aren’t mapping to NVX diagram.
Anyone solve this?
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Ok, I got power working through the VADM1 and the XLCA2. Power lights are on and I can see the bass light going on and off.
But WHY is the sub not firing?
I redid speaker connection to make sure speaker wire has good contact on sub and VADM1.
Any suggestions why the sub is not firing?
I tried it out. Just the hole alone did nothing, absolutely nothing, like muted. A Pipe that barely sticks out was also weak. So i went with this lenght. The Diameter was what i had, and just a little smaller than on my 25cm Logitech Z-5500 Woofer.
@mduffin how are your gain settings? On the XLCA2 i have Bass Volume at 25% and Bass X at 50%. On the VADM1 everything is at 0% except for Bass Boost at 50%
I’ve set all the gain settings to be the same as a prior post, and tried dialing up and down just to see if it triggers the sub to work. No luck. I’ve played with the gain and can make the max light go on and off leaving me to believe the speaker line taps are fine. I’m going to try to redo my tap splices to make sure i have optimum contact. At a loss otherwise.
Reset all t splices and still sub firing. These are my gain settings.
The XLCA2 “Maximized” light goes on and off with playback leaving me believe the problem is between the XLCA2 and the VAD or the speaker output of the VAD.
stumped
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Your Remote Cable is connected between the XLCA2 and the VADM1?Reset all t splices and still sub firing. These are my gain settings.
The XLCA2 “Maximized” light goes on and off with playback leaving me believe the problem is between the XLCA2 and the VAD or the speaker output of the VAD.
stumped
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