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Supercharger ~25 minutes away at Del Lago casino. I get to Seneca at ~93% after charging up to 100%.When? Dunno. I don't have a car yet... Where would you charge near there?
after I get it, I have to do a few events down in Jersey to see if I gel with the 3. If i want to go into debt again, mebbie I will do a full EVX build. Jury is still out...
I have my old 10 tire tag along trailer with hardtop mount from my A Stock S2000 days. I wonder if I can set it up with my Honda Generator, along with all the stuff needed for a multiple day/weekend event... Hmmm...
Yeah, but look at the reverse- this is a stock 4 door car that is best classed with SS cars, and CAN actually keep one axle powered while the other backs off, unlike most stock AWD cars. It's absolute magic in low traction conditions. Sure, it's not a gutted, winged, Hoosier'd SM car, but it's damn fast for what it is, and can be comfortably driven to work in exactly the same config as you AutoX it in.The biggest issue, this car critically needs an LSD. Because it cant transfer power, when any wheel slips it can only reduce power globally. The bias seems to work well as a tool to shift power rate forward or backward. If the rear seems to step out more then more front bias will allow more throttle and power to the end with grip and less to the other.
but the car is still pretty floppy.
More camber in the front really makes a big difference. I actually got rid of my front Eibach swaybar and got faster.I think some camber and swaybars will be a happy medium for street car and occasional autox.
Yeah, but look at the reverse- this is a stock 4 door car that is best classed with SS cars, and CAN actually keep one axle powered while the other backs off, unlike most stock AWD cars. It's absolute magic in low traction conditions. Sure, it's not a gutted, winged, Hoosier'd SM car, but it's damn fast for what it is, and can be comfortably driven to work in exactly the same config as you AutoX it in.
When you say the car backs off power globally- do you mean that the driver has to as one wheel slips? Are you running -10 on the stability control in track mode? I can do 4 wheel power slides (not fast for sure, but possible)- I don't tend to notice a power back off. Not even sure what logic the car would use to decide to back off power when you have SC/TC basically turned off.
Ironically, this weekend I beat a national champion in his C7 Grand Sport on Hoosier A7's, and I was on MPS4's. His main comment on watching me: Holy cow that car corners flat, and handles way better than it has any right to. Also ironically, my car is faster on MPS4's than one year old RE71's. Those things heat cycle out, and the rear end gets real tail happy when you're in sweepers and are asking for a lot of power. Not sure you'd feel the same about the power backoff if you were on the Hoosiers you are used to and the tires could absorb the power a bit better.
More camber in the front really makes a big difference. I actually got rid of my front Eibach swaybar and got faster.
I run a bit less pressure in the rear than the front FYI. Check your tire temps after a run and the back is doing less work, and a bit less pressure helps get some more grip back there.
So, MPP coilovers need more springrate? How is the rebound curve? If you up the rates, will they need a revalve? Or should we just go a different route?Me: National Champion Autocrosser, 19yrs in the game
Mods: MPP Sport coilovers, 265 RE71 (1 year old, 10k street miles)
MPP standard rates are great for the street but the car is still pretty floppy. Definitely need more than that ~1.3deg I have. I think some camber and swaybars will be a happy medium for street car and occasional autox.
Noted on the supercharger, thanks!Supercharger ~25 minutes away at Del Lago casino. I get to Seneca at ~93% after charging up to 100%.
We do have on site camping! Or Sampson State Park is across the street
Yeah, that's why I am looking at the AR-1 not CR-1. Grassroots lists the AR-1 as an "A" for warm up just like the A052 and A7, and the CR-1 is a B like the RE-71 and RT660. Seems like a good overall mix, I'm guessing it just doesn't get used a lot due to the 100TW rating and people either going "street tires" or "full race" (as if an A052 is actually 200TW against an A7 40TW...)I dont know about the AR-1 but the CR-1 definitely needs some heat to work but maybe not quite as bad as the RT660.
There's more than one set of MPP coilovers- the "sport" ones are KW V3's with some custom valving, but you still have the rebound/compression adjusters around that valving. MPP's suggestion for the compression/rebound is nowhere near the max settings.So, MPP coilovers need more springrate? How is the rebound curve? If you up the rates, will they need a revalve?
MPP has the sports spring kit, but of course they aren't stating what their rates are. I have a good idea of what the rates I received are from measuring the coils and have compared to the same process on other known hyperco and swift springs since I have something like 20+ springs sitting around here. I wont state here what I think they are cause they seem to want to keep their secrets.So, MPP coilovers need more springrate? How is the rebound curve? If you up the rates, will they need a revalve? Or should we just go a different route?
*I spent a decade in SM, served on the SMAC, and then got bored and left after I created SMF, I went to go play in stock... I "retired" when stock became street.*
ah, that is typical. I have asked what rates are via a phonecall on various coilovers and am met with the generic response "it is proper for your application". As you and i both know, we may need to go up/down depending on car setup, so i need to know what the starting rate is. I guess i could always test them myself, but i don't have access to a spring tester.MPP has the sports spring kit, but of course they aren't stating what their rates are. I have a good idea of what the rates I received are from measuring the coils and have compared to the same process on other known hyperco and swift springs since I have something like 20+ springs sitting around here. I wont state here what I think they are cause they seem to want to keep their secrets.
But, I suspect this car would be very happy at 12k/16k based on my measurements and NF goals. With no LSD, I think we have to be real careful with how much bar is used. Too much rear bar could make things unhappy in low grip areas.
It absolutely will. I run my eibach rear bar on full soft and am seriously considering going back to the stock bar. The car rotates reasonably, but it can be a bit loose if you have any steering input in and the back overpowers the surface.Too much rear bar could make things unhappy in low grip areas.
It absolutely will. I run my eibach rear bar on full soft and am seriously considering going back to the stock bar. The car rotates reasonably, but it can be a bit loose if you have any steering input in and the back overpowers the surface.
I've played with the bias a lot, and it always makes me slower.If the rear slips too early on exit (oversteer) then shift forward and if it pushes on exit then shift rearward.
Not 100% true.The bias just reduces power in one of the motors, correct? The car has no way of transferring power from one motor to the other, so really all you're doing is limiting the output of one of the motors. Correct me if I am wrong.
You don't need to go through all those steps, it is stamped on the front springs.MPP has the sports spring kit, but of course they aren't stating what their rates are. I have a good idea of what the rates I received are from measuring the coils and have compared to the same process on other known hyperco and swift springs since I have something like 20+ springs sitting around here. I wont state here what I think they are cause they seem to want to keep their secrets.
But, I suspect this car would be very happy at 12k/16k based on my measurements and NF goals. With no LSD, I think we have to be real careful with how much bar is used. Too much rear bar could make things unhappy in low grip areas.