Autocross- SCCA EV-X Class vs. SS

[gearchruncher]

Mostly debating with myself on if I wanna spend the money on an extra set of 19x9 (and those damn $300+ bluetooth TPMS) vs just repurposing my unused Uberturbines.

I don't run TPMS on my race wheels. Just ignore the warning and it will go away within a mile after you put your streets back on.

but from my understanding, this isnt a legal size for the Performance in S Street.

Consider running in the new EV-X category. Wheel rules: "Wheels may be replaced with wheels of any diameter and width. Replacement wheel material must be metal."

 

[SK360]

EV-X is the way.

Have the @MountainPass solid front lower control arm bearings & compression rod inserts on the way. Looking forward to improving steering feel and not having to deal with bolts loosening every few events.

 

[randmness]

I don't run TPMS on my race wheels. Just ignore the warning and it will go away within a mile after you put your streets back on.


Consider running in the new EV-X category. Wheel rules: "Wheels may be replaced with wheels of any diameter and width. Replacement wheel material must be metal."

Ahhhhh. I'm an idiot

I thought EVX was only a thing at Nationals. I need to order some new magnets ASAP.

 

[jackmott]

Ahhhhh. I'm an idiot

I thought EVX was only a thing at Nationals. I need to order some new magnets ASAP.

Magnets?
Where do you put them?
Or is there some product for sticking to aluminum doors?

 

[gearchruncher]

Magnets?
Where do you put them?

The front and rear quarters are steel.

 

[SK360]

Magnets?
Where do you put them?
Or is there some product for sticking to aluminum doors?

 

[randmness]

I think I have magnetic letters from driving everything from C->F Street. Sadly....No V.....no V......

Out of curiosity, does the lack of TPMS in the wheels affect track mode? Or any of the stability or traction control systems?

 

[SK360]

I think I have magnetic letters from driving everything from C->F Street. Sadly....No V.....no V......

Out of curiosity, does the lack of TPMS in the wheels affect track mode? Or any of the stability or traction control systems?

Nope. Just gives an annoying message you swipe away and it just keeps expanding itself back out

 

[randmness]

Nope. Just gives an annoying message you swipe away and it just keeps expanding itself back out

That is fantastic. Thanks again for the information!

 

[GAGT]

If you need 19s...

19x9" forged for $725/wheel (and you can find small discounts with some vendors, e.g. 5% off + free shipping):
https://titan-7.com/collections/whe...-domestic-applications?variant=39772931391576

19x9.5" forged for same $725/wheel (again can find small discounts with some vendors, e.g. 5% off + free shipping):
https://titan-7.com/collections/wheels/products/t-cs5-forged-10-spoke-wheel?variant=39509626847320

19x9.5" forged for $687.50/wheel (not sure about shipping cost):
https://redwoodmotorsports.com/products/model-3-wheels?variant=31985633984615

Not trying to knock you or anything but one of any of those are more than I paid for all 4 of my 19x9s LOL.

And because we just got a batch of pictures from May, here is one. Totally ate that cone

 

[SK360]

Not trying to knock you or anything but one of any of those are more than I paid for all 4 of my 19x9s LOL.

And because we just got a batch of pictures from May, here is one. Totally ate that cone

View attachment 765385

Nice cone shot! No one ever gets any good of me destroying them

And yeah my 19x10’s were $950 to my door lol.

I was going through pics from the year earlier in the night and I forgot about these 2 showing how dirty our lot was in April. Yes we got away with a back seat passenger…. Once. Lol

 

[randmness]

Went ahead and ordered a set of 255/40-18 RT660s (just got them today!) I already have a set of some flowformed 18x8.5s +35 wheels that I'm going to toss them on; think I paid roughly $1k for them from TireRack as well. Will probably use my Uberturbines as dailies.

Thanks again everyone for the help.

 

[RoadSoda]

Im pretty torn between moving forward in SS or just jumping into EVX.. I have a set of 19x9 wheels on the way and a set or 245 RT660’s. Im newer to autox but my interpretation of the current PAX difference between SS and EVX makes me think the jump is worth while.

 

[gearchruncher]

If you are new to AutoX, the classes don't matter. You're not going to be competitive at the beginning so it's irrelevant. Go learn, see how serious you are, how much money you want to spend and then worry about classing. EV-X and SS are pretty darn close in PAX (<0.4 s on a 60 second course), but EV-X is assumed faster.

 

[jackmott]

You definitely have a better chance of being competitive nationally in EVX than SS, because you can fix major issues like lack of camber and lack of tire, that you can't fix in SS.

But in your local region, it just depends which class has more aliens.

 

[RC10M3P]

I think the best SS wheel for the money for a '21+ M3P is the TSW Bathurst. After some extensive research it seems to be amount the best of the few options in that size because it's flow formed, light-ish at 21lbs, a pretty ideal 19x9.0 +30 and about $340/wheel.

I've personally been running the wheel for a little over a year and they have been great and certainly a lot less than some Titan7s which I did originally want.

 

[RC10M3P]

Anyone run RT660's enough to comment on wear vs the RE71R on our cars? I need to make a tire choice for this season, A052's are out of the question

I've ran both, and the RT660s did seem to wear a little faster, particularly the shoulders. The sidewalls on the RT660 is noticable softer than the RE71R so it just rolls over more. The 660 also feels more vague off center, while the RE71R feels a little sharper presumably because it's sidewall is stiffer, which allows it to run lower pressure.

I did have some slight heat issues with the 660 as well and sometimes struggle to keep them cool enough. I experienced some small blistering and delaminated chunks.

Both seemed equally fasted though, but with the differences described. The RE71R seem to heat cycle a little faster too.

 

[Rodney!]

hmm.... i may have to do this. going to read thread from the beginning...

 

[SK360]

I've ran both, and the RT660s did seem to wear a little faster, particularly the shoulders. The sidewalls on the RT660 is noticable softer than the RE71R so it just rolls over more. The 660 also feels more vague off center, while the RE71R feels a little sharper presumably because it's sidewall is stiffer, which allows it to run lower pressure.

I did have some slight heat issues with the 660 as well and sometimes struggle to keep them cool enough. I experienced some small blistering and delaminated chunks.

Both seemed equally fasted though, but with the differences described. The RE71R seem to heat cycle a little faster too.

So I got 13 events worth of runs (11 events + 2 codrives) out of my RE's with life still in the tread but they felt heatcycled out towards the end, sounds like I should be good for our 8 events this year on 660's and it sounds like I should buy a sprayer. I ran 32psi in the REs and I had heard the 660's would need higher pressure

 

[RC10M3P]

So I got 13 events worth of runs (11 events + 2 codrives) out of my RE's with life still in the tread but they felt heatcycled out towards the end, sounds like I should be good for our 8 events this year on 660's and it sounds like I should buy a sprayer. I ran 32psi in the REs and I had heard the 660's would need higher pressure

8 events, 32 runs, no problem. And definitely a sprayer is advisable as they don't like to get about 150. Ideally 110-130 degrees in grid seems like the sweet spot.

I found the 660s did need the higher psi to keep it from rolling over but with sufficient camber perhaps it won't be an issue.