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Best alignment settings - educate me please

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The guys at RMC (not sure why Apex is on the sheet unless it was their old name or something) said you can slide the subframe + adjust the knuckles to get these perfect. What they meant by adjusting the knuckles means, I have no clue how that would work. Maybe @MountainPass knows & could elaborate.
I would love to know what adjusting the knuckles means.
 
Your assumption was correct, they said on the Plaid the front is is completely adjustable doing what you stated.
Not completely. My eccentric bolts are maxed out and I still have more front camber than I want. I may end up with FUCAs anyway. Will drive it a while first. However now that I have seen your alignment specs, my OCD may not rest until I get front camber like that.
 
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Not completely. My eccentric bolts are maxed out and I still have more front camber than I want. I may end up with FUCAs anyway. Will drive it a while first. However now that I have seen your alignment specs, my OCD may not rest until I get front camber like that.

Wish i had more info on it, but suspension/alignment stuff I just don't know much about other than the basics.
 
Not completely. My eccentric bolts are maxed out and I still have more front camber than I want. I may end up with FUCAs anyway. Will drive it a while first. However now that I have seen your alignment specs, my OCD may not rest until I get front camber like that.
Not sure the adjustable aftermarket FUCA’s are made to provide less camber, they may only allow more camber for the track
 
After replacing rear tires, (right tire was significantly more worn than left tire) I got an alignment.
I had a slight left pull and steering wheel was slightly misaligned to the right.
These are the before and after alignment results. They only aligned what was in the read, front toe and steering wheel.

I'm no alignment expert (TBH don't know much about alignment)
But isn't rear toe pretty far off (even though it's in the green) which could be the cause for my right rear tire premature wear?

3-31 TMS wheel alignment.jpg
 
After replacing rear tires, (right tire was significantly more worn than left tire) I got an alignment.
I had a slight left pull and steering wheel was slightly misaligned to the right.
These are the before and after alignment results. They only aligned what was in the read, front toe and steering wheel.

I'm no alignment expert (TBH don't know much about alignment)
But isn't rear toe pretty far off (even though it's in the green) which could be the cause for my right rear tire premature wear?

View attachment 923830

That’s a pretty sloppy job. Looks like the ONLY thing they adjusted was your front toe. Rear toe should be as equal as can be Side to side.

You can do a toe shift to straighten the steering wheel.
 
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Hi guys,

I'm really sorry if this question is in the wrong place; I've searched and not found the correct place to put it...... My 2016 MS has developed a strange quirk. The tracking is very clearly out by a few degrees and needs doing, but more curiously, when I accelerate the steering 'straightens' and feels as though it goes into the correct alignment. if I hold the steering wheel tight and drive straight, when accelerating, the car goes off to the right, almost as if a component somewhere is loose and the acceleration causes play in said area. I had the toe links replaced a few months ago so I know it's not those, plus when they went, it gave the same result, but with a sensation of rear wheel steering. I imagine/hope that it's something to do with the link arms, but I could be wrong - can someone advise? Thanks!
 
Hi guys,

I'm really sorry if this question is in the wrong place; I've searched and not found the correct place to put it...... My 2016 MS has developed a strange quirk. The tracking is very clearly out by a few degrees and needs doing, but more curiously, when I accelerate the steering 'straightens' and feels as though it goes into the correct alignment. if I hold the steering wheel tight and drive straight, when accelerating, the car goes off to the right, almost as if a component somewhere is loose and the acceleration causes play in said area. I had the toe links replaced a few months ago so I know it's not those, plus when they went, it gave the same result, but with a sensation of rear wheel steering. I imagine/hope that it's something to do with the link arms, but I could be wrong - can someone advise? Thanks!
I think it could be the toe links. I found the torque setting was not enough to stop the cam bolt moving. I tightened them 1/8 turn more and it's never moved since.
 
Wanted to share the latest configuration on my setup for anyone looking to get ideas. Rear end was getting loose on high speed movements, and looks like the cause was camber and toe on the left being out of whack. Keeping front toe at 0, added a bit on the rear. Also added a bit more camber to get it back to an even 1 degree all the way around.

Going to run this for a bit and see how it does then make modifications when the softer tires go on in a few months.

Scan.jpeg
 
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With the air suspension changing heights that can also make a difference in alignment which can be challenging. Eg if you go from med to low for eg you will see one height and then when you come back and park from a drive the height will be as tad higher.