cleverscreenam
Member
Negative is toe out, positive is toe in.I would keep the toe negative (toe in)
You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Negative is toe out, positive is toe in.I would keep the toe negative (toe in)
I would love to know what adjusting the knuckles means.The guys at RMC (not sure why Apex is on the sheet unless it was their old name or something) said you can slide the subframe + adjust the knuckles to get these perfect. What they meant by adjusting the knuckles means, I have no clue how that would work. Maybe @MountainPass knows & could elaborate.
Maybe they mean the eccentric bolts that the front lower control arms use for adjusting camber/caster?I would love to know what adjusting the knuckles means.
Maybe they mean the eccentric bolts that the front lower control arms use for adjusting camber/caster?
Maybe they mean the eccentric bolts that the front lower control arms use for adjusting camber/caster?
AwesomeYour assumption was correct, they said on the Plaid the front is is completely adjustable doing what you stated.
Not completely. My eccentric bolts are maxed out and I still have more front camber than I want. I may end up with FUCAs anyway. Will drive it a while first. However now that I have seen your alignment specs, my OCD may not rest until I get front camber like that.Your assumption was correct, they said on the Plaid the front is is completely adjustable doing what you stated.
Not completely. My eccentric bolts are maxed out and I still have more front camber than I want. I may end up with FUCAs anyway. Will drive it a while first. However now that I have seen your alignment specs, my OCD may not rest until I get front camber like that.
Not sure the adjustable aftermarket FUCA’s are made to provide less camber, they may only allow more camber for the trackNot completely. My eccentric bolts are maxed out and I still have more front camber than I want. I may end up with FUCAs anyway. Will drive it a while first. However now that I have seen your alignment specs, my OCD may not rest until I get front camber like that.
You can use them for less camber (please note in the order notes that you need extra shims) but yes, the usual use is providing additional camber for track performance!Not sure the adjustable aftermarket FUCA’s are made to provide less camber, they may only allow more camber for the track
After replacing rear tires, (right tire was significantly more worn than left tire) I got an alignment.
I had a slight left pull and steering wheel was slightly misaligned to the right.
These are the before and after alignment results. They only aligned what was in the read, front toe and steering wheel.
I'm no alignment expert (TBH don't know much about alignment)
But isn't rear toe pretty far off (even though it's in the green) which could be the cause for my right rear tire premature wear?
View attachment 923830
Wha is the proper rear toe? Between 0.1 and 0.2 and same side to side?
I think it could be the toe links. I found the torque setting was not enough to stop the cam bolt moving. I tightened them 1/8 turn more and it's never moved since.Hi guys,
I'm really sorry if this question is in the wrong place; I've searched and not found the correct place to put it...... My 2016 MS has developed a strange quirk. The tracking is very clearly out by a few degrees and needs doing, but more curiously, when I accelerate the steering 'straightens' and feels as though it goes into the correct alignment. if I hold the steering wheel tight and drive straight, when accelerating, the car goes off to the right, almost as if a component somewhere is loose and the acceleration causes play in said area. I had the toe links replaced a few months ago so I know it's not those, plus when they went, it gave the same result, but with a sensation of rear wheel steering. I imagine/hope that it's something to do with the link arms, but I could be wrong - can someone advise? Thanks!
I think it could be the toe links. I found the torque setting was not enough to stop the cam bolt moving. I tightened them 1/8 turn more and it's never moved since.