Do your mini-splits have electric resistance heating for low temps or are they strictly heat pumps?
I do not believe mine have any heat strips, mits, So far coldest outside is mid 30's
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Do your mini-splits have electric resistance heating for low temps or are they strictly heat pumps?
I do not believe mine have any heat strips, mits, So far coldest outside is mid 30's
when I replaced my gas furnace, I got a heat pump with gas as the emergency heat since gas was already plumbed there. The additional advantage is that during power outage I can switch it to gas and save heat pump draw from the powerwalls
The last comment of this post has the right answer (direct link below):
For example, from a pure physics perspective looking at just heating, your outdoor compressor is most efficient when it's warm outside - and do you really need or want the same temperature inside from 2-5 AM when you're sleeping and it's at it's coldest outside? Also, the indoor heat exchanger is also more efficient when pulling in cooler air to warm up - it's able to transfer more heat to the air for a given airflow.
That where zoning really comes into play. You can keep the bedroom at a different temperature than other parts of the house and do not necessarily have to keep adjusting the temperature in each zone.
Okay, since so many are doing things to save electric costs, looking for some guidance.
I live in about 4500 sq foot house, 2 plus levels. Used to have 2 propane multipack systems.
To make a long story short, these were removed and replaced with new mini split heating cooling systems, 10 heads
throughout the house. I love the ability do to real zoning.
But, since my solar is down to like 25% of what it produces in the summer, trying to figure out the best way to run these new mini splits for the least cost, but being able to keep my large home warm. It is 60 now.
With the propane heating, I would only run when needed, so this is how I am currently mentally programmed.
But, with the mini split heat pumps, is this the correct way to use? I have read some opinions that I should just set the temperature, like at 64, and let them run 7/24 to use minimum electricity?
But then I am thinking do they cost more to run in the morning, when my outside temps are 30? Meaning, should I turn off and lets say turn them on at 2 pm, and heat up the house to lets say 70, and then turn them off at 7 pm when I go to bed?
Thanks for any advice on best way to use these.
Do you really like having your house at 61? As I said before, with that many panels and not consuming more electricity in the winter, your annual true up may be very negative. If that is the case, you will probably regret keeping the house so cold
Do you have a programmable t-stats for baseboard heat system? If not - highly recommended. Easy reduce the temp after you go so sleep and pre-heat the room/s before everyone wakes up.
Also it your split system is controlled by remote only I would suggest to add a pseudo -smart thermostat, basically wifi bridge. you can create a schedule, control device from your phone etc. It's not 100% convenient as a say Nest but it's a big step up from the remote..
I use Ciello Breez Plus.
I do miss using my baseboard with programmable thermostats as I found it to keep a more even heat when it's freezing out than the 5 mini-split heads. Once I have the RPi developed (initial prototype successfully tested last weekend!), I may play around with temp settings, however really just want it to auto shut off heads in winter during a grid outage to keep PWs from draining too fast.
Strictly heat pump. Far as I know the only resistance heat is in the drain pan under the coil They actually periodically run the AC to defrost the coil by using heat from the house.Do your mini-splits have electric resistance heating for low temps or are they strictly heat pumps?
No baseboard heat.
I have looked into adding the smart thermostat stuff to my mits mini splits. But since it costs about 500 bucks per head, and I have 10, .....
Again, since the data I have seen says just set the temp and run 7/24, I see no reason to do anything differently. What am I missing?
The problem is that most mini-splits can't use your typical replacement "smart thermostat", they're unique. Most aftermarket thermostats can only handle your typical 1-2 stage HVAC system.I'm in MA and here National Grid (electric provider) running promo campaigns through MassSave for smart thermostats. Like this one:
Google Nest Thermostat Snow
The problem is that most mini-splits can't use your typical replacement "smart thermostat", they're unique. Most aftermarket thermostats can only handle your typical 1-2 stage HVAC system.
For example, I have a Trane communicating dual-fuel system (heat pump + gas furnace) with a basic programmable, and you can only use special Trane thermostats which cost a fortune.
Mini-splits usually have an infrared remote for each head that you use to control the system.
It’s a Raspberry Pi 0w that plugs into the same connector as the $200 Mitsubishi WiFi addon. For about $20 in parts instead, it lets me control the mini split head via a web API I’m coding. It’s initially set up to power off the head automatically if the grid goes out, but only in winter when it uses a lot of energy. I’ll likely let it run in summer for AC as that doesn’t take anywhere near the same amount of energy for us. There’s full control of the unit via the API or a web page, such as temp/vane/fan changes, so I can also turn it into a smart thermostat and use remote temperature sensors for better performance; one unit is high up a 2-story wall, so temp reading is usually a bit off.What have you developed and how does it work.
It’s a Raspberry Pi 0w that plugs into the same connector as the $200 Mitsubishi WiFi addon. For about $20 in parts instead, it lets me control the mini split head via a web API I’m coding. It’s initially set up to power off the head automatically if the grid goes out, but only in winter when it uses a lot of energy. I’ll likely let it run in summer for AC as that doesn’t take anywhere near the same amount of energy for us. There’s full control of the unit via the API or a web page, such as temp/vane/fan changes, so I can also turn it into a smart thermostat and use remote temperature sensors for better performance; one unit is high up a 2-story wall, so temp reading is usually a bit off.
The problem is that most mini-splits can't use your typical replacement "smart thermostat", they're unique. Most aftermarket thermostats can only handle your typical 1-2 stage HVAC system.
For example, I have a Trane communicating dual-fuel system (heat pump + gas furnace) with a basic programmable, and you can only use special Trane thermostats which cost a fortune.
Mini-splits usually have an infrared remote for each head that you use to control the system.
Yep, the default mits remote does not have any programmable features. Ones needs to purchase their unique hw per head at 500 bucks per head to control. Would love to have the toys but for close to 5K to put in my ten heads, would take a while to pay back, if ever.
I posted the solution for this issue in my original post. These devices work with variety of heating/cooling devices (if you r device has IR remote it will work for you):
.
There several different brands to choose from. It's not ideal but pretty close to real smart thermostat for a fraction of the cost.
very cool. Got a picture of how you connected?