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Boost Upgrade LR AWD or PM3?

Is buying a new LR AWD and the $2k boost upgrade a better option than a PM3?

  • Yes, buy the boost.

    Votes: 11 73.3%
  • No, get a PM3

    Votes: 4 26.7%

  • Total voters
    15
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Is a boosted LR AWD for $2k the same as a stealth PM3?
What is the HP of a boosted LR AWD?
Why not just buy a LR AWD and pay the upgrade?

These are the questions going through my mind. I would like to hear from those who have the boost and those with PM3 on your thoughts. It's a big price difference and my thought is...this is the best bang for the buck.
 
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Reactions: Arctic_White
Is a boosted LR AWD for $2k the same as a stealth PM3?
What is the HP of a boosted LR AWD?
Why not just buy a LR AWD and pay the upgrade?

These are the questions going through my mind. I would like to hear from those who have the boost and those with PM3 on your thoughts. It's a big price difference and my thought is...this is the best bang for the buck.


Boosted LR AWD is ~3.5 0-60

P3D- is ~3.0 0-60

Above that they're virtually identical.... with the P3D- running around 11.4-11.5 in the 1/4 mile and the Boosted LR AWD running about 11.8 (with very close trap speeds- so pretty much 0-30~50 mph is where nearly all the difference is anymore)


The P3D- also has track mode- which may or may not matter to depending if you track the car (or want to drastically reduce safety/traction features on public roads which I don't advise)


At current pricing- if you don't plan to run on tracks, the LR AWD with boost is the better bang/buck.

If you do then the track mode stuff is probably worth the difference in price.


Some folks would tell you (if you track it) just get the P3D+ since it's the same price as the P3D- is now- and then sell the boat anchor 20s and get proper lightweight 18s that also fit over the + brakes... if that seems worth the effort knock yourself out.


Oh, the P3D+ also has a higher top speed... but it's unlikely since you're in the US that the 145 top speed of the LR AWD won't be sufficient for you.
 
Boosted LR AWD is ~3.5 0-60

P3D- is ~3.0 0-60

Above that they're virtually identical.... with the P3D- running around 11.4-11.5 in the 1/4 mile and the Boosted LR AWD running about 11.8 (with very close trap speeds- so pretty much 0-30~50 mph is where nearly all the difference is anymore)


The P3D- also has track mode- which may or may not matter to depending if you track the car (or want to drastically reduce safety/traction features on public roads which I don't advise)


At current pricing- if you don't plan to run on tracks, the LR AWD with boost is the better bang/buck.

If you do then the track mode stuff is probably worth the difference in price.


Some folks would tell you (if you track it) just get the P3D+ since it's the same price as the P3D- is now- and then sell the boat anchor 20s and get proper lightweight 18s that also fit over the + brakes... if that seems worth the effort knock yourself out.


Oh, the P3D+ also has a higher top speed... but it's unlikely since you're in the US that the 145 top speed of the LR AWD won't be sufficient for you.

I agree LR AWD is the better bang and you hit the nail on the head with a PM3- & PM3+...why get a stealth, but if I get the + then I have to sell the 20s, get 18s and deal with that hassle. I would have a cool carbon fiber spoiler and red calipers...oh I can buy an aftermarket spoiler and do the calipers any color I want myself!

I like a good performance car, but 3.5 vs 3 isn't worth an extra $6k for me. If there is something I am missing that makes it worth it? (Don't say the car is lowered, a cm doesn't do anything).
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Arctic_White
I like a good performance car, but 3.5 vs 3 isn't worth an extra $6k for me. If there is something I am missing that makes it worth it? (Don't say the car is lowered, a cm doesn't do anything).


No, that's basically it.

Oh, FWIW the + has larger brakes not just colored ones- but again outside of a race track this not only doesn't add anything useful, it actually makes the car worse in that the brakes are harder to work on, more expensive to replace, and limit your selection of aftermarket wheels too.

(ON a track they'd do something useful- but there's also several even better aftermarket kits out now for brakes if you're heavy into track use)