Bought a used model 3 and have some questions

[gottagofast]

The previous owner did remove his account but didn’t do the factory reset

I’ve already added my account to the vehicle

Is it safe for me to do the factory reset now that the vehicle is already in my account? Will it remove my account, all the card keys and my phone key?

The vehicle also had full self driving, will it erase that with a factory reset?

 

[Tronguy]

The answer is, "It should be safe."

You'll lose the phone keys but (shouldn't) lose the key cards. As you probably know, one uses the key cards to set up the phones.

As regards FSD: Again, you shouldn't lose that, especially if the car did not pass through the hands of Tesla ownership on its way to you. There was some major foo-fer-aw some years back when some punters bought a Tesla-owned car (i.e., a used car that had been sold back to Tesla) and said cars had FSD. Tesla has a process which, when they get a car, used, and it has FSD, they remove FSD. They kinda forgot to do that, then did it after the new owners had paid for and had the cars. Days and perhaps weeks later. The Interwebs were all abuzz about when the first lawsuit was going to be filed when somebody in Tesla realized this wasn't on anybody's list of Good Ideas, relented, and those buyers got FSD back.

Since then they've been more careful. Again, as far as I know, FSD is linked to the VIN number of the car. Would suggest that you check the car's account and look at details.

And, weirdly enough: It is possible to call Tesla, or even walk into a Service Center, and Ask Questions. My experiences doing that have been very positive; and they'll have no problems answering questions about key cards and whether FSD survives a factory reset or not.

 

[gottagofast]

The answer is, "It should be safe."

You'll lose the phone keys but (shouldn't) lose the key cards. As you probably know, one uses the key cards to set up the phones.

As regards FSD: Again, you shouldn't lose that, especially if the car did not pass through the hands of Tesla ownership on its way to you. There was some major foo-fer-aw some years back when some punters bought a Tesla-owned car (i.e., a used car that had been sold back to Tesla) and said cars had FSD. Tesla has a process which, when they get a car, used, and it has FSD, they remove FSD. They kinda forgot to do that, then did it after the new owners had paid for and had the cars. Days and perhaps weeks later. The Interwebs were all abuzz about when the first lawsuit was going to be filed when somebody in Tesla realized this wasn't on anybody's list of Good Ideas, relented, and those buyers got FSD back.

Since then they've been more careful. Again, as far as I know, FSD is linked to the VIN number of the car. Would suggest that you check the car's account and look at details.

And, weirdly enough: It is possible to call Tesla, or even walk into a Service Center, and Ask Questions. My experiences doing that have been very positive; and they'll have no problems answering questions about key cards and whether FSD survives a factory reset or not.

I haven’t called them since I bought the vehicle and put it on my account, they didn’t seem to want to help with any questions I had before I purchased the vehicle though, they kept saying “that vehicle isn’t being sold by us so we can’t say anything”

 

[Tronguy]

I haven’t called them since I bought the vehicle and put it on my account, they didn’t seem to want to help with any questions I had before I purchased the vehicle though, they kept saying “that vehicle isn’t being sold by us so we can’t say anything”

Well, before you weren't a customer of theirs. Now you're a Tesla owner. That's different. For one thing, you can buy stuff (like, premium connectivity, $RANDOM accessories, Supercharging in general, and all that jazz). So, you're a customer again.

Just be polite and, if you show up, try to do so when it's not crunch time. Early in the morning is usually better.

 

[gottagofast]

Well, before you weren't a customer of theirs. Now you're a Tesla owner. That's different. For one thing, you can buy stuff (like, premium connectivity, $RANDOM accessories, Supercharging in general, and all that jazz). So, you're a customer again.

Just be polite and, if you show up, try to do so when it's not crunch time. Early in the morning is usually better.

You think I should do the factory reset then? I may go it now, there’s a lot of info still left on here from the previous owner even though he removed his account

 

[Tronguy]

And, so long as you're the newbie: What year, make, model, and type? Just curious. What have you done (if anything) for hone charging? Did it come with the Mobile Connector and all?

 

[gottagofast]

And, so long as you're the newbie: What year, make, model, and type? Just curious. What have you done (if anything) for hone charging? Did it come with the Mobile Connector and all?

2022 performance model 3 with AMD ryzen processor, I have a wall connector but it’s not connected yet so I’m just going to be charging from a 15 amp or 20 amp socket

 

[gottagofast]

Well, before you weren't a customer of theirs. Now you're a Tesla owner. That's different. For one thing, you can buy stuff (like, premium connectivity, $RANDOM accessories, Supercharging in general, and all that jazz). So, you're a customer again.

Just be polite and, if you show up, try to do so when it's not crunch time. Early in the morning is usually better.

I hope Tesla doesn’t treat me worse if I ever have a problem since I didn’t buy directly from them, like putting me at the bottom of waiting list and such lol

 

[Tronguy]

I hope Tesla doesn’t treat me worse if I ever have a problem since I didn’t buy directly from them, like putting me at the bottom of waiting list and such lol

Based upon reports around here, most Tesla employees are pretty good. Sometimes one will find a complaint; but, nearly always, Tesla Makes It Right.

And, well, they are busy. There's a heck of a lot fewer Service Centers than dealerships, but Teslas are flooding the market.

My experiences with the dozen or so Tesla employees I've had reason to interact with has been that they're courteous, kind, helpful, and all that Boy Scout stuff. Most of that has been with the Springfield service center; but I've had good luck with the crowd down on Rt. 1 near Trenton and up north. Not to mention the tire guy who came by with his truck and replaced the flat and the two or three mobile techs who've come by. (First car was a 2018 M3 RWD LR; early, so more troubles. The 2021 MY the SO drives has been pretty much problem-free. As is my daily driver, a 2023 M3 AWD LR with FSD.)

Which reminds me: If you've got FSD, please read the manual and all the warnings with respect to that beast. The most recent versions are pretty safe, but it is still a Beta, especially on city streets. The phrase in the "gotta click through this" is, "The car will do the worst thing at the wrong time." They are absolutely not kidding, so stay alert.

 

[Tronguy]

2022 performance model 3 with AMD ryzen processor, I have a wall connector but it’s not connected yet so I’m just going to be charging from a 15 amp or 20 amp socket

All sounds fine. Few things.

1. Performance M3 comes, stock, with "summer" tires. These are great on the track when it's 40F and up, but those kinds of tires, no matter what car they're mounted upon, become hard rocks, prone to cracking, when it's 40F or lower. And if it's 20F, you'll have a distinct lack of traction with snow and ice, to the point of being seriously dangerous. If the previous owner gave you All Seasons or a set of snow tires with the car, you'll be in better shape.
2. Speaking of cold weather: If you're in a warm clime, charging from a 15A or 20A socket will get your 4.5 to 6 miles of charge per hour; given that you have to sleep sometime, that'll probably keep you going most of the time. If you're in a cold climate, below or well below freezing, you may be in some trouble. The battery has to be warm before it'll charge; the heater that gets the battery warm takes 2 or 3 kW to get it to that state; and a 15A socket will (NEC standards) delivers but 12A @ 120V = 1.44kW, and, well, no charging. The Wall Connector will fix all that since 240 VAC at any reasonable current can get the battery warm sans trouble. If you garage the beast and the garage is at all warm, then you'll be OK as well.

Have fun with the car!

 

[gottagofast]

Based upon reports around here, most Tesla employees are pretty good. Sometimes one will find a complaint; but, nearly always, Tesla Makes It Right.

And, well, they are busy. There's a heck of a lot fewer Service Centers than dealerships, but Teslas are flooding the market.

My experiences with the dozen or so Tesla employees I've had reason to interact with has been that they're courteous, kind, helpful, and all that Boy Scout stuff. Most of that has been with the Springfield service center; but I've had good luck with the crowd down on Rt. 1 near Trenton and up north. Not to mention the tire guy who came by with his truck and replaced the flat and the two or three mobile techs who've come by. (First car was a 2018 M3 RWD LR; early, so more troubles. The 2021 MY the SO drives has been pretty much problem-free. As is my daily driver, a 2023 M3 AWD LR with FSD.)

Which reminds me: If you've got FSD, please read the manual and all the warnings with respect to that beast. The most recent versions are pretty safe, but it is still a Beta, especially on city streets. The phrase in the "gotta click through this" is, "The car will do the worst thing at the wrong time." They are absolutely not kidding, so stay alert.

If it suddenly does something wrong will simply tapping the brakes or moving the steering wheel turn off the self driving or can it only be turned off by the same way it’s turned on

 

[gottagofast]

All sounds fine. Few things.

1. Performance M3 comes, stock, with "summer" tires. These are great on the track when it's 40F and up, but those kinds of tires, no matter what car they're mounted upon, become hard rocks, prone to cracking, when it's 40F or lower. And if it's 20F, you'll have a distinct lack of traction with snow and ice, to the point of being seriously dangerous. If the previous owner gave you All Seasons or a set of snow tires with the car, you'll be in better shape.
2. Speaking of cold weather: If you're in a warm clime, charging from a 15A or 20A socket will get your 4.5 to 6 miles of charge per hour; given that you have to sleep sometime, that'll probably keep you going most of the time. If you're in a cold climate, below or well below freezing, you may be in some trouble. The battery has to be warm before it'll charge; the heater that gets the battery warm takes 2 or 3 kW to get it to that state; and a 15A socket will (NEC standards) delivers but 12A @ 120V = 1.44kW, and, well, no charging. The Wall Connector will fix all that since 240 VAC at any reasonable current can get the battery warm sans trouble. If you garage the beast and the garage is at all warm, then you'll be OK as well.

Have fun with the car!

I’ve started building a house but I probably won’t have a garage for a few more years so it’s going to be outside only for awhile

I’m not sure if the tires are summer tires or all season, this is the south east so I think the extreme cold is over for now, we might have a few more days of 30-40 degree weather

I’m thinking about getting the 18 inch ev01 wheels and having discount tire install them

 

[Tronguy]

If it suddenly does something wrong will simply tapping the brakes or moving the steering wheel turn off the self driving or can it only be turned off by the same way it’s turned on

Ha. It's called an intervention.

First: Let's be clear. This is a 2-ton hunk of technology that, while having four wheels, brakes, a steering wheel, a go pedal, a stop pedal, and All That Jazz, is Not Quite like any vehicle you've been driving before. Unless you're truly stuck for time, I'd strongly suggest reading through the manual. If you're in the car, with the screen active, on the bottom row there's a small icon with three horizontal dots. Hit that, and you'll get a Lot More Icons. One of them looks like a binder and has the fateful words, "Manual" on it. Tap on that and there's 500 pp. of manual to go through. Mind you, it's like any other car manual you've ever looked at, where the first 1/3 (or more) is all about where the controls are, how to use the seatbelts, and that stuff: Actually driving the car is at least 1/3 of the way in. But read it. You'll discover weird things, like the panel that comes off on the bumper so you can "jump open" the frunk, allowing one to recover from a dead 12V battery. (Yeah, the car's got one of those, too.)

Main point is that there are places that have that nifty red or yellow triangle with the exclamation point in it with Dire, and Not-So-Dire warnings. Don't depend upon $RANDOM gonzos on the internet to tell you what's in those things - and I guarantee you, with the Tesla, you get a new set that doesn't match up with what you leaned in Driver's Ed. It's not that they're bad, or weird, or anything: They're just different, and, as car operator, you'd better for sure be aware of them. The manual does get updated as the feature set gets updated and matches the car.

Other place the manual lives is on the Tesla.com account; you can read it there, or download the pdf.

So, say you're chugging along on FSD. You're truly, duly, supposed to have at least one hand on the wheel; you're supposed to be torquing it back and forth a bit, too, otherwise the car won't think you're there and will disable FSD for the current drive. Same with eyeballs: The car uses the interior camera to check whether you're looking (mostly) out the windows; a few second of not looking out the windows (cell phone, screen, the guy in the back seat, etc.) and you'll likewise end up with a disabled FSD. They really want you supervising the car, not reading War and Peace or watching a video. And doing those things (assuming the car wasn't nagging the heck out of you) is a good way to end up dead, or in an accident. It really is a Beta.

So, you've got FSD running and are navigating to your favorite destination. Here comes a left turn. On 98% of the turns, the car will slow, wait for traffic to clear, and make a nice, smooth turn. The other 2% the wheel will jerk, you get the idea that the mechanical Student Driver has lost it and is going to ram something. In which case - turn the steering wheel where you want the car to go, you'll feel some resistance, and the car will let go abruptly; you are now in charge. Or hit the brake, and, again, you're in charge. You can gas it while in FSD (to speed up a little, say) and the car will stay in FSD, but it will also pop up a warning not, "FSD will not auto brake while you're gassing it" or something.

There are a bunch of options around FSD. Honestly, you need to read the manual, then go through all those screens and settings and make sure they're set the way you like.

Having said all that: Just came back yesterday from a trip up to Boston and back to New Jersey. 90%+ of the trip, both directions, on FSD. It works really well on interstates; will switch lanes back and forth; change speed with speed limit signs (and what's in the mapping software), and it's actually a bit easier doing it that way. The car will absolutely not change lanes into somebody in the blind spot (all those cameras) and tracks the middle of a lane pretty blasted well.

It also acts a bit like an advanced student driver. When it's not absolutely crazy out, it does a good job. In a heavy rainstorm, not as much.

This is going to sound a bit silly, but if Tesla pinkie-swears you'll keep FSD on a factory reset, I'd strongly suggest that you do that thing. Before you can use any of the car's advanced features, you have to click through a variety of warnings and instructions, on anything from data collection (Tesla's actually pretty good about that, nothing gets sold) to things like FSD. Reading all those things is Good For Your Soul, and Fair Warning, besides.

 

[Tronguy]

I’ve started building a house but I probably won’t have a garage for a few more years so it’s going to be outside only for awhile

I’m not sure if the tires are summer tires or all season, this is the south east so I think the extreme cold is over for now, we might have a few more days of 30-40 degree weather

I’m thinking about getting the 18 inch ev01 wheels and having discount tire install them

No problem on the garage; Tesla's do fine outdoors. But I wouldn't wait for the garage before you put in the Wall Connector, or a NEMA14-50 240 VAC socket on the side of the house. (Quick note: Given that an outside power connector needs a GFCI and an industrial-grade socket, it's marginally cheaper to install the wall connector, which is outdoor rated).

Wall Connector/home energy rates are typically about 1/3 the cost of charging at a Supercharger. Still cheaper than, say, gassing up a BMW M3, but it's 1/3 to 1/5 the cost of said BMW if you use home electrical rates. Even better if you have reduced time of day charging rates from your local utility.

(Depending upon the state, some states have interesting incentives for BEVs like a Tesla. NJ will partially fund a higher-current drop from the local utility pole if necessary, not to mention paying for the wall connector. YMMV.)

As far as the tires go: If they're All Seasons, they'll actually have those words on them. In the absence of that, get the manufacturer's part number, or just the text, off the tire, go to some place like Tire Rack, and look it up.

I never, in my life, have bought summer tires for any car that I've owned. (Never owned a muscle car, either, so that explains that.) But from the various posts on the subject that I've seen around here, it seems that these kinds of tires might actually have a temperature limit and Dire Warnings if those are exceeded on the low end.

On the other hand, you being in the south, and temps don't get down that far, it may be safe. Dunno.

 

[gottagofast]

No problem on the garage; Tesla's do fine outdoors. But I wouldn't wait for the garage before you put in the Wall Connector, or a NEMA14-50 240 VAC socket on the side of the house. (Quick note: Given that an outside power connector needs a GFCI and an industrial-grade socket, it's marginally cheaper to install the wall connector, which is outdoor rated).

Wall Connector/home energy rates are typically about 1/3 the cost of charging at a Supercharger. Still cheaper than, say, gassing up a BMW M3, but it's 1/3 to 1/5 the cost of said BMW if you use home electrical rates. Even better if you have reduced time of day charging rates from your local utility.

(Depending upon the state, some states have interesting incentives for BEVs like a Tesla. NJ will partially fund a higher-current drop from the local utility pole if necessary, not to mention paying for the wall connector. YMMV.)

As far as the tires go: If they're All Seasons, they'll actually have those words on them. In the absence of that, get the manufacturer's part number, or just the text, off the tire, go to some place like Tire Rack, and look it up.

I never, in my life, have bought summer tires for any car that I've owned. (Never owned a muscle car, either, so that explains that.) But from the various posts on the subject that I've seen around here, it seems that these kinds of tires might actually have a temperature limit and Dire Warnings if those are exceeded on the low end.

On the other hand, you being in the south, and temps don't get down that far, it may be safe. Dunno.

What are the stock tires that come on the performance?

I’m looking at the tires that are on my car now and I can’t find all season on it but they are the Michelin pilot sport 4S, do you know if those are all season?

 

[Tronguy]

What are the stock tires that come on the performance?

I’m looking at the tires that are on my car now and I can’t find all season on it but they are the Michelin pilot sport 4S, do you know if those are all season?

Michelin’s web site says super duper tire, but they call it a summer tire. I’d suggest looking up the tire on Michelin’s site and see what they say about temps, or call Tire Rack or some Michelin dealer and ask a picky question or three. Yeah, they’ll always try to sell you tires, but I’m not a tire guy.

The latest foo fee aw around here happened a few weeks ago when somebody near Denver scared the bejeezus out of themselves by swapping ends going down the road with summer tires. But it was in the teens, snow/ice on the road, and all that. Last heard the person was getting a set of snows; but a lot of people in Denver do that in the winter, anyway, Tesla or no Tesla.

You’re in the South, it’s mostly above freezing, so, dunno.

I’ve spent most of my life driving around the Northeast, mid-Atlantic, and Midwest with all-seasons, which, while not as good in snow and what-all as snows, work reasonably in less than 8” of snow. I did spend some time in Norfolk in my Navy days.. but that place gets the occasional ice storm, that places south of there don’t get. That’s when the local teens with muscle cars and slicks have a really bad time.

And one hears about all the fun in places like Atlanta when they get the (rare) snow storm. It’s not just that Atlanta has a certain lack of plows for what northern states consider a minor dusting: it’s all those cars with summer tires and drivers who aren’t used to the slip-sliding that 90 year-old granny northerners use for four-wheel drifts around residential corners. The grannies don’t get into accidents because of this because they’re used to that kind of surface.

Check with a tire dealer. And maybe go find a deserted large parking lot on a cold day and try some not-excessive sharp turns to see how the car handles. If it doesn’t skid to your satisfaction, then don’t bother changing tires, maybe.

 

[gottagofast]

Michelin’s web site says super duper tire, but they call it a summer tire. I’d suggest looking up the tire on Michelin’s site and see what they say about temps, or call Tire Rack or some Michelin dealer and ask a picky question or three. Yeah, they’ll always try to sell you tires, but I’m not a tire guy.

The latest foo fee aw around here happened a few weeks ago when somebody near Denver scared the bejeezus out of themselves by swapping ends going down the road with summer tires. But it was in the teens, snow/ice on the road, and all that. Last heard the person was getting a set of snows; but a lot of people in Denver do that in the winter, anyway, Tesla or no Tesla.

You’re in the South, it’s mostly above freezing, so, dunno.

I’ve spent most of my life driving around the Northeast, mid-Atlantic, and Midwest with all-seasons, which, while not as good in snow and what-all as snows, work reasonably in less than 8” of snow. I did spend some time in Norfolk in my Navy days.. but that place gets the occasional ice storm, that places south of there don’t get. That’s when the local teens with muscle cars and slicks have a really bad time.

And one hears about all the fun in places like Atlanta when they get the (rare) snow storm. It’s not just that Atlanta has a certain lack of plows for what northern states consider a minor dusting: it’s all those cars with summer tires and drivers who aren’t used to the slip-sliding that 90 year-old granny northerners use for four-wheel drifts around residential corners. The grannies don’t get into accidents because of this because they’re used to that kind of surface.

Check with a tire dealer. And maybe go find a deserted large parking lot on a cold day and try some not-excessive sharp turns to see how the car handles. If it doesn’t skid to your satisfaction, then don’t bother changing tires, maybe.

Even if it handles fine I was worried about the hardness and cracking you talked about, does that only happen at like 20 degrees? Or at 40 and lower

I see one day this week where it will be 30 degrees in the morning but then 50 degrees at noon

The previous owner just put this car up for sale 7 days ago so before then he must have been driving all winter on these, it’s been cold here for atleast 2 months so I’m guessing they weren’t a problem for him?

 

[Tronguy]

Even if it handles fine I was worried about the hardness and cracking you talked about, does that only happen at like 20 degrees? Or at 40 and lower

I see one day this week where it will be 30 degrees in the morning but then 50 degrees at noon

The previous owner just put this car up for sale 7 days ago so before then he must have been driving all winter on these, it’s been cold here for atleast 2 months so I’m guessing they weren’t a problem for him?

I'm a kinda thinking the way you are; but I don't live down that way and have never owned summer tires, so I don't feel really comfortable giving a recommendation either way. A local tire dealer or one of those Tire Rack folks (I've called their customer service before, bought tires there, and they were pretty low pressure) probably have better opinions than I do nine days out of ten .

 

[c00sebookpro]

Even if it handles fine I was worried about the hardness and cracking you talked about, does that only happen at like 20 degrees? Or at 40 and lower

I see one day this week where it will be 30 degrees in the morning but then 50 degrees at noon

The previous owner just put this car up for sale 7 days ago so before then he must have been driving all winter on these, it’s been cold here for atleast 2 months so I’m guessing they weren’t a problem for him?

Also something to note, if those are the original tires they more than likely have foam in them. When I got my first nail every place refused to patch or plug them due the foam in the tire. I called several places and finally had to just purchase a new tire.

 

[RayK]

Also something to note, if those are the original tires they more than likely have foam in them. When I got my first nail every place refused to patch or plug them due the foam in the tire. I called several places and finally had to just purchase a new tire.

And another internet comment from a rando user (aka, me)... My experience with the factory MXM4s, which do have the foam lining on the interior of the tire, was that when I had a puncture, the local Tesla service center (Santa Clara, CA) was able to remove the foam and plug the hole. Not sure if they replaced the foam but the tire was fine until I got another screw in it but close to the sidewall which deemed it irreparable.