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Car Care: Controlled experiment - test gloss and durability of the top paint finishes

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So I've got to ask, this has been bugging me about the whole polishing process at these levels... The guys were measuring paint thickness, or was it clear coat thickness?

Depends on the paint thickness gauge. Most only measure the total paint thickness. There are multi-layer paint meters that will show you how thick the clear coat is. However a multi layer guage like a Defelsko is over a grand, a bit much for most detailers. Many detailers and auto appraisers use it to measure paint to see if any part has been repainted vs factory.

After a correction like that, many detailers would recommend a sealant as a sacrificial barrier/layer on top of the perfectly polished clear coat. After a year or two, you'll likely pick up some new swirls, scratches and you'll only have to polish off the Glare, Cquartz, Opti-Coat and maybe just a light polish on the clear coat. Obviously deep scratches can't be fixed, but any of those small scratches wouldn't require as much work to get rid of.

The goal is to preserve your clear coat for as long as possible. If you intend to keep your cars for a long time, you do NOT want to do a full polish or paint correction every year, eventually you'll wear down the clear.

yobigd20 said:
For step 5, should some sort of sealant or wax be applied? What would you recommend here? Is this when people are adding Opti-coat (though isn't that a permanent clear coat?...not sure if that's the right thing to apply after Glare Polish...? or is that too "permanent", should something else be used? or should that not be used with the Xpel? What would seal that shiny glass polish for at least a good 1-2 years?)

Cquartz, 22LPE, Opti-Coat and others need to be applied to bare paint (clear coat), they are not meant to be applied on top of anything (wax, other sealants, etc). You don't technically need additional wax or sealants on top of these products but you could only if you find the look lacking in some way. I would think Glare would be similar.
 
Depends on the paint thickness gauge. Most only measure the total paint thickness. There are multi-layer paint meters that will show you how thick the clear coat is. However a multi layer guage like a Defelsko is over a grand, a bit much for most detailers. Many detailers and auto appraisers use it to measure paint to see if any part has been repainted vs factory.

After a correction like that, many detailers would recommend a sealant as a sacrificial barrier/layer on top of the perfectly polished clear coat. After a year or two, you'll likely pick up some new swirls, scratches and you'll only have to polish off the Glare, Cquartz, Opti-Coat and maybe just a light polish on the clear coat. Obviously deep scratches can't be fixed, but any of those small scratches wouldn't require as much work to get rid of.

The goal is to preserve your clear coat for as long as possible. If you intend to keep your cars for a long time, you do NOT want to do a full polish or paint correction every year, eventually you'll wear down the clear.



Cquartz, 22LPE, Opti-Coat and others need to be applied to bare paint (clear coat), they are not meant to be applied on top of anything (wax, other sealants, etc). You don't technically need additional wax or sealants on top of these products but you could only if you find the look lacking in some way. I would think Glare would be similar.

Excellent and very well informed advice. Everyone should follow it.
 
Cquartz, 22LPE, Opti-Coat and others need to be applied to bare paint (clear coat), they are not meant to be applied on top of anything (wax, other sealants, etc). You don't technically need additional wax or sealants on top of these products but you could only if you find the look lacking in some way. I would think Glare would be similar.

So if I read that right, after you apply the Glare Polish, you are done, right? Don't use sealers or wax or anything else after the Glare Polish?

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So if I read that right, after you apply the Glare Polish, you are done, right? Don't use sealers or wax or anything else after the Glare Polish?

LOL nevermind, just read the detailed description again on their web site:

"Never apply carnauba wax, or polymer synthetic wax, on top of your final GLARE coat as this will adversely affect the chemical bonding process with the paint and will cause the shine to go down. There is no need to top GLARE with anything else because GLARE provides the highest shine of any other product available. This should always be the final step in any application."
 
DrDave has made an excellent suggestion: Why not take gloss readings of my Model S as it's delivered from the factory before my detailer does any work?

That's a very good idea. I'll take measurements in about 8-10 different locations just as it comes from the the factor remeasure in the same spots after the detailer completes his work, then report the results here.
 
If anyone wants to purchase Glare directly from the factory, they are offering members of the forum a 10 discount by entering code Pstevens07 at Glare.com. I used it on my Model S and I am very happy with the outcome and the support they gave me in prepping and applying the system.
 
If anyone wants to purchase Glare directly from the factory, they are offering members of the forum a 10 discount by entering code Pstevens07 at Glare.com. I used it on my Model S and I am very happy with the outcome and the support they gave me in prepping and applying the system.

Just an FYI that you can get Glare Polish from Aircraft Spruce at $27.50, 21% less than the manufacturer's site. There may be even cheaper options around.
 
If anyone wants to purchase Glare directly from the factory, they are offering members of the forum a 10 discount by entering code Pstevens07 at Glare.com. I used it on my Model S and I am very happy with the outcome and the support they gave me in prepping and applying the system.

NICE. thanks!

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Just an FYI that you can get Glare Polish from Aircraft Spruce at $27.50, 21% less than the manufacturer's site. There may be even cheaper options around.

even better, lol.
 
I plan on wrapping a good portion of my car with a PPF (paint protection film) shortly after delivery. Before doing so I was planning on getting the car detailed. Does it make sense to use something like the Glare polish before the installing the PPF? Based on this thread I'm considering telling Tesla not to detail my car and hire someone else to detail it.
 
I plan on wrapping a good portion of my car with a PPF (paint protection film) shortly after delivery. Before doing so I was planning on getting the car detailed. Does it make sense to use something like the Glare polish before the installing the PPF? Based on this thread I'm considering telling Tesla not to detail my car and hire someone else to detail it.

The Glare claims to work well on all kinds of surfaces.