I had an electrician put in a 14-50 NEMA outlet in my garage today. After he was finished I decided to test it out by putting my limit slider to 100%. I'm getting 30mrph and my Model 3 got to the 310 mile limit and sent me a text that said charge complete. So, not knowing if I'll ever see it at 310 miles again I decided to get a screenshot of it. It was just a test so now I'll move my slider back to my daily 80% driving limit on my charging indicator.
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Charged my TM3 at home to 310 miles
- Thread starter NuttyM3
- Start date
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
I guess now you can either drive it or leave the AC on for a few hours.
So, i take it that it’s not good to leave it fully charged tonight? I wasn’t planning on driving it until tomorrow morning. I can run the AC if I need to bring my charge down some. If it’s ok to leave it charged until I make a breakfast run tomorrow then I’ll do that. There’s a lot more smarter folks then me on this. What are my options? Thanks.
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AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Just run the heat or the AC. Heat will get it down sooner of course. Just be sure to set an alarm for yourself, so you don't forget to turn it off soon!
It's not the end of the world to leave the car at 100% overnight until tomorrow, of course. It really will be fine. But personally I'd drain it a few %, to 97% or something (I wouldn't go all the way down to 90% because it seems like a huge waste). Who knows whether it would make any significant difference - but there is more stress on the battery at high %, particularly when it is warm out, from what I understand.
Definitely it is not worth worrying about, and if you are driving it tomorrow you should just follow your heart.
Keep in mind that when the car is completely charged there isn’t a way for regen braking to put energy back into the battery so be prepared to notice this and use your regular brakes.
Thanks for the reminder on the regen. I forgot about that until you mentioned it. Thanks again.
darth_vad3r
Well-Known Sith
I echo mostly everything already said.
If you decide to run HVAC, you can use “Climate Keeper” and choose a temp not too far from ambient in either direction, and then I believe it shuts itself off after 4 hours.
It might use ~3% to run AC for 4 hours. Heat might be over 10%.
If you do this, check the timing and miles and let us know your experience. It’s a good way to calculate average cost of running AC or heat over a long stretch of time with no driving.
If you decide to run HVAC, you can use “Climate Keeper” and choose a temp not too far from ambient in either direction, and then I believe it shuts itself off after 4 hours.
It might use ~3% to run AC for 4 hours. Heat might be over 10%.
If you do this, check the timing and miles and let us know your experience. It’s a good way to calculate average cost of running AC or heat over a long stretch of time with no driving.
Darth Vader, I ran the heat at 80 degrees for 90 minutes and the car went from 100% to 96%. Sentry mode is off too.
Yeah, I even unplugged it from the car after charging to 100% with the 14-50 NEMA. Then did the heat test and it went from 100% to 96% in 90 minutes like I mentioned above. I left the car unplugged all night just to see if there would be any kind of drain on the system. Nope, I just checked it after 13+ hours of being unplugged and it still registers 96%
darth_vad3r
Well-Known Sith
If you checked in miles (or km) which has more resolution you might notice a drop of a couple miles overnight. Percent could stay the same with a multi-mile drop
darth_vad3r
Well-Known Sith
Heh. Pretty bang on with my “might be over 10%” for 4 hours then.
4% for 1.5 hrs would be 10.67% for 10h
Of course that could have been anywhere between 3.500% and 4.499% which would project to 9.33 - 12%
As just mentioned above, using miles (or km) offers a bit more resolution in these types of measurements.
Thanks for reporting back!
ps. Sentry mode being off *definitely* helps let your car sleep when everything else is off (saving drain) ... I think it has immeasurable impact if it’s off while the car is otherwise on because of e.g. climate Keeper, dog mode, or you sitting in it listening to the radio.
darth_vad3r
Well-Known Sith
If only long-term storage is an issue, please tell us exactly how long is “ok” and won’t have any negative impact at all in the battery?
darth_vad3r
Well-Known Sith
ps. Also, you are wrong:
Compare equal 60% depth of dicshcarge lifetime here between 100%-40% (red) vs 85%-25% (green):
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
*ANY* negative impact is just the battery getting a few minutes older.
The only study that folks seem to refer back to when talking about 100% storage is one that indicated a percent or two degradation when a battery (not Tesla's) was plugged in for a year.
That falls inline, IMHO, with Tesla's guidance to keep the battery not charged to 100%, since if the setting wasn't there and the car stayed plugged in, then the car would stay very near 100% for probably 98% of the year (we don't drive cars that much).
So, philosophical discussions aside, any better data on any lithium batteries?
*ANY* negative impact is just the battery getting a few minutes older.
The only study that folks seem to refer back to when talking about 100% storage is one that indicated a percent or two degradation when a battery (not Tesla's) was plugged in for a year.
That falls inline, IMHO, with Tesla's guidance to keep the battery not charged to 100%, since if the setting wasn't there and the car stayed plugged in, then the car would stay very near 100% for probably 98% of the year (we don't drive cars that much).
So, philosophical discussions aside, any better.
And your last post is an awesome example of philosophical discussions with very little merit. Table 3 generally shows that our batteries are going to die in a few year, at any charge, at any temperature. But yes, you showed an example, but it was obviously philosophical and obviously not for the EV formulation batteries.
EV batteries are not the same as those in cellphones and computers. They are built for different use cases and have been significantly tweaked over the years. The early Tesla and Leaf batteries had some significant issues (longevity and heat) and were a lot closer to cellphone batteries than today's batteries. In today's vehicles, the battery technologies are designed to survive the punishing use and lifetime requirements of the modern EV.
Did you know that the original Prius had batteries that were significantly overbuilt and had significantly more capacity that advertised? That's because they were known to degrade and they had to last the time required of automotive parts. But over the years, EV batteries have progressed significantly. That's why we have to 8-10 year warranties on the batteries.
Your car is NOT running on a big laptop battery.
I caution any owner to use the line I read it on the internet and this was my rationale for charging. If something bad happened to your battery and Tesla said how have you been charging the car? Keep in mind they already know. Would one say I went and read some forums about how to charge my car? I would guess not.
None of the studies regarding the care for batteries applies to Tesla cells. One might like to connect the dots as they are both Lithium Ion. Battery University vaguely mentions the sizes of the cells and nothing regarding charging these specific cells. While I agree in the generalities of the talk about the Lithium Ion. Most of the writing was done in 2011.
Many threads from many experienced Tesla owners can give you nothing but the empirical data from their own experience. Which is not statistically valid. So go with what the manual says. Or Elon's tweets.
Unless I have a breakfast with a Tesla battery management system engineer, or Tesla puts it in the manual I ain't buying anything I read anywhere. I follow the manual and my experience has been stellar. No one can tell me they charge a different way and have less degradation or keeping range longer, because the data just isn't there. Nor can I say I follow the manual and my degradation is less. That is why I go with the folks that made the stuff.
None of the studies regarding the care for batteries applies to Tesla cells. One might like to connect the dots as they are both Lithium Ion. Battery University vaguely mentions the sizes of the cells and nothing regarding charging these specific cells. While I agree in the generalities of the talk about the Lithium Ion. Most of the writing was done in 2011.
Many threads from many experienced Tesla owners can give you nothing but the empirical data from their own experience. Which is not statistically valid. So go with what the manual says. Or Elon's tweets.
Unless I have a breakfast with a Tesla battery management system engineer, or Tesla puts it in the manual I ain't buying anything I read anywhere. I follow the manual and my experience has been stellar. No one can tell me they charge a different way and have less degradation or keeping range longer, because the data just isn't there. Nor can I say I follow the manual and my degradation is less. That is why I go with the folks that made the stuff.
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