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Cheap DIY Paint Protection Film Project

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I am one of those people that are not a perfectionist but I wan't it too look good and stay good category. DIY as long it is not a disaster sounds good to me. Thanks for sharing your journey, and I'm looking forward to the updates.
 
Here's a quick update on the hood install:

Most of the bubbles are gone, there are less than 5 remaining, and 4 of them are tiny. There was one bigger bubble one week ago that had liquid and some air inside, now it's a tiny bubble and the air is gone.

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The bubble on the front hood is now 1/4 the original size after a week.

The next day after install, I found a couple of dog hair on the corner of the hood, as well as one that's right in the middle of the top edge that's a whole 2 inches in. I had to do the unthinkable - which is to pull the film 12 hours after install. I know there will be cosmetic issues but I had to do it.

Here's the consequences:

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Look carefully and you'll see a diagonal line where I once removed the film to remove dog hair

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The area where I need to stretch a dome to pull the dog hair is much worse because I actually stretched the film by a lot. It's ugly under the light but it's actually not noticeable unless you look for it. I didn't even know it was there until I started cleaning the hood in preparation for installing the film on the fender.

Live and learn, at least I saved 500 bucks on install :)
 
More film arrived! This time I'm installing the film on the fender.

I bought two pieces of 30x60 film for $90 each. I think 31 inches wide would have been perfect. Right now I think it's a little too short on width to cover the hood side properly.

View media item 118407I'm super paranoid about dog hair this time. I use my magnifying glass to look for hair and dust before and after install. I also use it when I was cutting.

View media item 118405First I tape the top edge with masking tape, then I drew out the shape with a sharpie so that I can use the rest for the rear view mirror hood and other parts.

View media item 118406View media item 118409I then flipped the film over and start spraying water. It was easy to peel the backing as the masking tape hold the film in place. This time it's a one person job.

View media item 118410Flip the film down, and it's time to cut out the area for the side camera housing. First I squeegee the bottom part so I know where to cut.

View media item 118411There are some space behind the housing, you can actually leave more film to go behind it.

View media item 118413As I started trimming I noticed that I drew the corner too close and I left the corner uncovered. Oh well you can't tell after install.

View media item 118412Having to stretch to prevent fingers is tough when the headlight bulges out so much. I made a cut where the headlight is, but I stretched so much that I tore the film and now there's an exposed corner that's 1/2 inch in size. It's not a BIG deal but it's painful none the less.

This time around I used the cheap plastic squeegee that was included with the film, and it seemed to work better than that rubber squeegee. I don't have to press as hard to push all the water out, and it glides even on dry film.

Overall the install took 2 and a half hours since I need to spend more time on trimming. Hopefully I'll do a better job on the opposite side tomorrow.
 
Second time around the fender installed smoothly and it took 90 minutes.

View media item 118426This time around I folded the top so that the tire side won't get any fingers, and I don't have to stretch the top part to make things fit.

View media item 118405Don't do it this way, where the loose folds are found near the wheel well, and the top side also require a lot of stretching to rid of fingers. Live and learn!

With the extra film I wrapped the headlights, then the rear view mirror housing. The mirror housing was vary hard to install as you have to pull extremely hard to get close to installing the film without the finger fold marks.

My vinyl wrap arrived today so I put my vinyl cutter to use and got the console wrapped.
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Last places to wrap are the door edges, the bumper area below the trunk. Still thinking of what to do with the rest of the left overs.
 
Thanks for sharing! Any plans for the doors or rear bumper? I was thinking about doing the doors to prevent finger nail scratches on the paint from less careful passengers, and the rear bumper for situations where other people might hit my rear bumper when I parallel park.
 
Thanks for sharing! Any plans for the doors or rear bumper? I was thinking about doing the doors to prevent finger nail scratches on the paint from less careful passengers, and the rear bumper for situations where other people might hit my rear bumper when I parallel park.

I used the leftovers to make 5/8" strips so I can protect the door edges, and I'm about to cut out a piece that would go above the door handle as well as the handle itself. The cost for the whole project would triple if I were to cover the entire doors, so my main focus is on the front side to protect against rocks and debris.

I had plenty of left over so I ended up covering the bumper right under the trunk for those instances where I drag luggages in and out, as well as the top of the trunk since I grab the corner every time I close the trunk.
 
What solution are you using? Looks like you are going straight to the alcohol solution. It starts the adhesive bond, making it harder to get the water out and you get more bubbles.

I got my solution from someone's Youtube video. It's 8oz alcohol, 24oz distilled water, and 2ml baby shampoo. I have no idea what's a better solution but I'm not worried about bubbles after working on the hood and seeing how quickly they go away.
 
After the front side is complete, I started making use of the left overs.

First I cut out a bunch of 5/8" strips and wrap the door edges,

Then I cut a 16 x 36 piece to cover the bumper area right under the trunk
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I have a big piece left over from the hood install (I ended up ordering a 48x72 piece instead of 48x60), and I used that to cover most of the trunk door.
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These last pieces were very easy compared to the fenders. I still got careless and left some bubbles here and there, but I'm less worried about them now seeing how quickly they disappear.

I took a picture of the door handles. Going to use my vinyl cutter to cut out the right shape for the handles as well as the area right above the handle. With the rest I'll probably cover the kick board area. I'll also cut a piece to cover up the emergency door handle on the passenger side.
 
I think you are supposed to use the alcohol solution and baby shampoo independently of each other. I might be wrong. From what I learned, you use the baby shampoo solution to set the film in place, squeegee out the water/shampoo in the center and then on the edges to apply the alcohol solution to activate the adhesive faster in the edges to keep it in place.
 
I even used a bit more shampoo than recommended because I was afraid the film would dry too quickly for a novice like me. A tint shop I once visited said during the summer, he has to add more shampoo to the water than normal to stop the adhesive in the film from setting too quickly.
 
You want roughly 8-10 mL per 32 ounces of water for your slip solution. Too much soap will cause the adhesive to not stick well. Use Johnson's baby shampoo or Walmart Equate baby shampoo. Never use dish soap. Just spray the area liberally don't need to be cheap here.
 
I've got a bunch of scrap films hanging around, so the next project is to cover the door handle area.

View media item 118436Took a picture of the door handle and drew vectors around it. Then I cut it with the vinyl cutter.

View media item 118435Now I have the peace of mind that the door handle area won't get scratched after repeated use.

Anyone want the vinyl cutout pattern just let me know.
 
With more film sitting around, I lined the step board area of all the doors today.

I just got my carpool stickers today, so I put them on the film before sticking on the car.
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Lastly, I cut out a strip and taped the emergency door handle so first time riders won't pull the handle by mistake. The tape wraps around to the bottom.
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I've made some adjustments to the door handle template. You can see it here
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Or you can download the PNG or Silhouette Studio file from my google drive:
Tesla - Google Drive
 
I'm wrapping my whole M3. I found Tesla paint to be easily scratched, I'm handy and I needed a project and a challenge. PPF brands vary in price, and the quality varies with price. Cheaper PPF has more "orange peel". 3M comes comes in two types, the "PRO" 3M is more expensive: I"m using it on those parts that are more visible. I bought cheap stuff for the back and it turns out the rear bumper and lift gate are really hard to do. Use the bulk film so that you can wrap all the edges. The film stretches, more when warm, but does not compress very well. Initially anchor the film on the topographical center, then stretch it in all directions to minimize the risk of "fingers". Use soap solution liberally, keep everything wet. Don't panic. Use thread cutting scissors (in Oregon we use these to trim cannabis) to cut around the T emblem. You can try to cut with a knife but the film is actually really tough and you will scratch the paint. Wash, clay bar, polish, and wash again with rubbing alcohol solution prior to applying. Remove all dust from the environment prior to applying or you will look at it under you PPF for the rest of your life. This is a great job for those of us with more time than money: getting a shop to apply this stuff is expensive. I've also gotten some vinyl for the aero wheels (silver carbon fiber color to match my silver car). Vinyl wrap is relatively easy to apply with a heat gun. vvividshop.com has a good selection. The original dark color of the wheel caps is so sad and depressing, but now with the silver wrap the car really looks great. I did my door pulls also. Definitely recommend applying vinyl: it's fun, not too hard, durable and really looks great.
 
I bought cheap stuff for the back and it turns out the rear bumper and lift gate are really hard to do. Use the bulk film so that you can wrap all the edges.

In your opinion, is the rear bumper harder than front bumper? I put on a pre-cut ppf on the front bumper and was thinking about doing the rear bumper with bulk film because I am inspired by Lanzer's success. :)