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In case you might find it useful, we should tell you about how to do a deep boot too. Seriously. Hold your foot on the brake pedal then press and hold each of the scroll wheels, until you see the touchscreen blank out. Then you can release all. Tesla tells us this is simply a deeper reboot than just the scroll wheels by themselves.Happened again and scroll reboot didn't reset it but power off and then on again worked. Actually I might have misspoke as maybe it was power off and on the first time.
I learned that the other day when online with Tesla support. Thanks. I'll try that next time but simple power off/on makes sense like resetting a breaker which is probably similar.In case you might find it useful, we should tell you about how to do a deep boot too. Seriously. Hold your foot on the brake pedal then press and hold each of the scroll wheels, until you see the touchscreen blank out. Then you can release all. Tesla tells us this is simply a deeper reboot than just the scroll wheels by themselves.
I believe this is the connector for the dashcam: Dropbox - 0436450400_CRIMP_HOUSINGS-148659.pdfCall me stupid bu tI'm trying to make as few permanent modifications to the car as possible. Scared to Tesla blaming me for something going wrong becuase I spliced a wire here or tapped the power there.
On another note, do you happen to know what the connector is that connects from the Blackvue battery to the cam? As other have mentioned, I'm thinking of adding a switch inline between the battery and the camera. Simplest option would be for me to create a switched wire and plug in the dash cam to one end and the battery to the other. Battery arrives this week/next so cant physically check to see what that connector is.
Call me stupid bu tI'm trying to make as few permanent modifications to the car as possible. Scared to Tesla blaming me for something going wrong becuase I spliced a wire here or tapped the power there.
On another note, do you happen to know what the connector is that connects from the Blackvue battery to the cam? As other have mentioned, I'm thinking of adding a switch inline between the battery and the camera. Simplest option would be for me to create a switched wire and plug in the dash cam to one end and the battery to the other. Battery arrives this week/next so cant physically check to see what that connector is.
... I installed a wireless relay switch to turn on/off my dashcam after getting the idea from @Akikiki. I have a BlackVue B-112 battery, but the basic wiring is the same as the B-124. The dashcam connects to the battery using a regular 12V cigarette lighter adapter by way of a female 12V socket that plugs into the battery...
Thanks, 124 comes in tomorrow but from the looks of the pictures the connector looks spot on.I believe this is the connector for the dashcam: Dropbox - 0436450400_CRIMP_HOUSINGS-148659.pdf
I've been going back and forth between a wireless vs. wired solution for turning the camera on and off in the garage. Wired is the simplest and I think the most secure. Might have to figure out routing paths but on the interim could just leave it in the center. The wireless option provides the nice clean look of having the remote in the phone dock but the paranoid in me thinks that some smart crook might disable the cam since its a simple wireless relay to toggle the power. Additionally, powering the relay would need to draw from the 124, granted a very small drain but a drain none the less.I also didn't want to do any hardwiring for the same reason. Who knows what unforeseen electrical problems may come up in the future. The last thing I want is a warranty claim to be denied because I altered the car's wiring.
From my research that I've done on the relays used in this thread (and knowledge of relays in general), you need to cut the wire in-between the camera and your power source, in your case the Cellink (I myself will be cutting the wire between the battery and the female 12v plug as if I were to cut the wire from the camera to the 12v male plug and messed up, someone needs a new more expense cable). From SDKoala's first photo, terminals 1-5, left to right, terminal 1 is not used. T4(-) and T5(+) are wired to the Cellink output, this will power the relay. T3(+) and T4(-) are wired to the dash cam. The green wire jumping T2(+) and T5(+) is what will connect power to the dash cam when the switch is pressed. When the switch is off, T2 is disconnected from T3. When the switch is activated, T2 is connected to T3, which connects T5 to T3, powering the dash cam. Correct me if I'm wrong @SDKoala.Could you provide more info about how this relay gets wired... like what wires get cut and what wires go where in the relay switch?
Are people having issues plugging something into the cig lighter, and also having the little tray as well, or are people just taking out the tray?
I also didn't want to do any hardwiring for the same reason. Who knows what unforeseen electrical problems may come up in the future. The last thing I want is a warranty claim to be denied because I altered the car's wiring.
I installed a wireless relay switch to turn on/off my dashcam after getting the idea from @Akikiki. I have a BlackVue B-112 battery, but the basic wiring is the same as the B-124. The dashcam connects to the battery using a regular 12V cigarette lighter adapter by way of a female 12V socket that plugs into the battery. You see the socket in this photo above the fuses.
It's a very easy project and solves the problem of running down the battery overnight when parked at home. For me, it's essential because my commute isn't long enough to fully power the battery from empty.
I transected the dashcam's power cord and wired the relay about a foot away from the cigarette adapter plug. Everything fits nicely in the forward part of the center console compartment under the armrest. (The B-124 is larger, so the compartment under the flip lid is probably a better place for it, but the only way to get wires in and out of there is to route a hole through the side of the compartment, which I also didn't want to do.)
I stuck the remote for the switch on my phone dock mat. If a passenger needs to use that charger, it's attached by Velcro and easily removed. There are a lot of ugly remotes out there and this one kind of matches the aesthetics of the car's interior at least. It's a little unsightly, but function wins out over form on this one. The remote can be put anywhere, but I needed it to be where I would see it and remind me to turn the dashcam off.
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The cogs in my engineering mind just started to turn with this idea, haha. The lazy man sitting behind my computer would rather have Blackvue release an update that offers an option to disable parking mode based upon a GPS location.Nice setup! For me a simple on/off switch does the trick...but I am curious if you can use a cheap NodeMCU with a relay that turns off power when it connects to your home's wi-fi...it will still use some power but very little compared to the dashcam.
Been following this thread for a while and finally got my car. Forgive what may be a stupid question, but how many people have actually had issues hardwiring directly to the 12V battery?
Good idea. Now what are you going to do with your good idea? Have you opened a support ticket with Blackvue? Sent them an email?The cogs in my engineering mind just started to turn with this idea, haha. The lazy man sitting behind my computer would rather have Blackvue release an update that offers an option to disable parking mode based upon a GPS location.
This is the pigtail that I have been using to wire to power for Blackvue dash cams. This way I don't have to cut the power cord up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LFRT8K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Could you provide more info about how this relay gets wired... like what wires get cut and what wires go where in the relay switch?
From my research that I've done on the relays used in this thread (and knowledge of relays in general), you need to cut the wire in-between the camera and your power source, in your case the Cellink (I myself will be cutting the wire between the battery and the female 12v plug as if I were to cut the wire from the camera to the 12v male plug and messed up, someone needs a new more expense cable). From SDKoala's first photo, terminals 1-5, left to right, terminal 1 is not used. T4(-) and T5(+) are wired to the Cellink output, this will power the relay. T3(+) and T4(-) are wired to the dash cam. The green wire jumping T2(+) and T5(+) is what will connect power to the dash cam when the switch is pressed. When the switch is off, T2 is disconnected from T3. When the switch is activated, T2 is connected to T3, which connects T5 to T3, powering the dash cam. Correct me if I'm wrong @SDKoala.
Nice setup! For me a simple on/off switch does the trick...but I am curious if you can use a cheap NodeMCU with a relay that turns off power when it connects to your home's wi-fi...it will still use some power but very little compared to the dashcam.
The cogs in my engineering mind just started to turn with this idea, haha. The lazy man sitting behind my computer would rather have Blackvue release an update that offers an option to disable parking mode based upon a GPS location.