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DC Solar trailer used for charging my M3

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I recently bought at auction the DC Solar trailer. All in it was just over $5k (bid was $4400). I limit my home charging to 20A no matter the source. I installed a NEMA1450 receptacle, and boom. I achieved the magic four words..."it charges my Tesla".
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How much power does that trailer actually produce in a given day? When I google "Average kWh rate Utah" I get roughly 10 cents a kWh. At 10 cents a kWh, how long would you need to leave your car plugged into that trailer to break even on the 5k you spent on it?

I am struggling to see the end game on this one, especially since a model 3 cant tow the trailer, and a cybertruck which could tow it, will have larger batteries, so throw the "total time to charge" off even higher.

Other than a novelty of "I can do this so I did" (which I get, if that was the case), I am struggling to see how this makes any sense.

Rooftop solar also powers your home, and is likely a lot more power than that rig would generate... but maybe it generates more than I think.
 
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jjrandorin I would guess this wouldn't be for average use or locations but rather in locations where there is no grid power available or very remote. I thought I read they used something similar out near the Bonneville Salt Flats when running Teslas there as well as at the Pikes Peak run.

Crazyrudy what is the capacity of the trailer itself?
 
That is pretty nice.. where did you purchase it from? And what is the output? Looks like maybe about 1KwH. Are those batteries underneath?
I got this at the Las Vegas Speedway near Nellis AFB. They are auctioning about 4k of these trailers across the country (in varying configurations) because of the DC Solar Bankruptcy. Yes, those are batteries. Those batteries took 39 gallons of fluid to properly fill. All of the specs are available here: DC Solar Mobile Solar Generator Trailers | Online Auctions Nationwide . The two sunny island inverters put out 30A at 240V. I never charge above 20A when at home, no matter what the energy source. This setup certainly handles that current, and has some juice to spare.
 
How much power does that trailer actually produce in a given day? When I google "Average kWh rate Utah" I get roughly 10 cents a kWh. At 10 cents a kWh, how long would you need to leave your car plugged into that trailer to break even on the 5k you spent on it?

I am struggling to see the end game on this one, especially since a model 3 cant tow the trailer, and a cybertruck which could tow it, will have larger batteries, so throw the "total time to charge" off even higher.

Other than a novelty of "I can do this so I did" (which I get, if that was the case), I am struggling to see how this makes any sense.

Rooftop solar also powers your home, and is likely a lot more power than that rig would generate... but maybe it generates more than I think.

First, I do not care about the economic calculation. When it comes to clean energy, I never have. So I have not done the math even as far as you have. I have rooftop solar on a grid tie net meter. I live in the desert southwest, where sunshine is plentiful, and grid power is unreliable. So the backup power that this brings to the setup is critical to using the rooftop panels as a day time power source when the grid is unavailable. Also, it is all clean energy at that point, and that is the goal.

Second, there is no end game. Only the process of replacing each and every powered vehicle and appliance so that it accepts clean energy. I dont see myself ever reaching that goal, I view it as a process of changing my energy consumption habits one by one. It is an ethic, a practice, not an ink mark on a score card.

Third, novelty is also a name of the game. I mean why not? Shouldn't I be allowed to just do this?

Fourth, the trailer is for multiple uses and purposes, not just powering the car. It must be mobile to provide power in remote locations for the car, the Polaris EV, and other electronic toys.

You can check out the specs on the trailer here: DC Solar Mobile Solar Generator Trailers | Online Auctions Nationwide
 
A lot of us tow with Model 3. Tesla only rates the Europe Model 3 for towing (because they install a tow bar). You should be able to two 2,000 LB without an issue.

I do have a tow package on my DM ER 2019 Model 3. We estimated the wet weight of the trailer at around 5k lbs, so no...at least not my Model 3. The trailer itself is a heavy, dually, pintle hitch trailer...so more complications.
 
A higher ROC is completely unnecessary for my driving habits, it helps make up for the needed 90%SOC required in my rural area, and it helps with lifetime usability. It also allows my rooftop solar to completely service a daytime charge.

Note that you will use more energy charging at a lower rate, decreasing your overall charging efficiency. When the car is charging, various system and pumps are running (car is awake), causing at least 200-300w to be used, try charging at 30a+ for better efficiency.

Also, charging at a lower rate will not increase lifetime usability any measurable amount. The C rating when AC charging is extremely low. You're maxing at 12kw on AC vs DC charging at 250kw (200x the C rate). And even those who constantly DC charge aren't noticing higher levels of degradation.
 
Note that you will use more energy charging at a lower rate, decreasing your overall charging efficiency. When the car is charging, various system and pumps are running (car is awake), causing at least 200-300w to be used, try charging at 30a+ for better efficiency.

Also, charging at a lower rate will not increase lifetime usability any measurable amount. The C rating when AC charging is extremely low. You're maxing at 12kw on AC vs DC charging at 250kw (200x the C rate). And even those who constantly DC charge aren't noticing higher levels of degradation.

I appreciate all of that. Except that it is not necessary to charge at the higher rate. Also you assume that only the car is charged using the trailer. Using more energy to charge at a lower rate is OK, since I have more free energy, and I use the available energy at the trailer for other purposes. So the budget gives the Tesla 20A, and the other items are budgeted 30A. Those other items take about 25A peak, and 20A continuous. So it all works out.

As to charging at a higher rate using the grid, it is not necessary. Also, all I would have to do to reach the nayr14 efficiency standard is to turn the car off whilst charging.
 
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